Horsetan

As long as Clare won, that's all that matters to me

That would have been an expensive exercise. BEMO HOm stock doesn't come cheap; engines are generally over GBP £200 to £250 each, and even the tiny coaches are getting on for about £50 each new. Years ago, I bought a BEMO RhB G4/5, based on the preserved no.108 at Landquart. I felt intense pain handing £320 over the counter. For that reason alone, I have kept it. I will probably arrange for it to be put in my coffin when I die - the model owes me that much!

Part ref. L10 on that page.

Was that the LMS Stanier-type tender that she had on the plinth at Dundalk?

Here's another thought: you don't have to make the bevel-and-spur geartrains only for coreless motors, but also offer it as an option for more traditional iron-core motors such as Mashimas, etc.

Click here and go to the middle of the page.....

2020, I think....

'Tis not just the Irish market, but also the existing British market to take in. The kind of eBay prices still commanded by RG4s - solidified lubricant or not - suggests that the market still exists.

Is that the sign of another.....kit?

Yes please! In for a penny, in for a Euro!

Now here's something you don't see on eBay every day Anyone identify the class on which the thing's based?

We may be singing from the same hymn sheet. Loads of good things in there for the GNR(I) fan.

I've picked up a few more - a lot less than £70. They needed relubricating, as the original grease had congealed, hence they were going cheap. Weshty: any thoughts about replicating the gears?

Reading this has made the following song pop into my head http://youtu.be/1WhhSBgd3KI

I've sent him an e-mail now....

New signalling looks good. I wonder if Des / "Weshty" does the etched "anti-vandal" grilles that cover the hoods in some areas?

As a late addition, I think both Lenz and Zimo make suitable DCC decoders that will work with coreless motors.

I can almost taste it.

He got his fingers burnt trying to run RailModel Digest. That's what I remember him for. Another long-gone, but still useful book is Roche & Templer's "Building Model Locomotives". It was published by Ian Allan in the early 1970s. Worth getting hold of. Don't forget the late Guy Williams' three books on building 4mm scale engines (the last two being from Wild Swan), plus Stephen Williams' (no relation to Guy) books on building 4mm scale coaches.

Seconded.

I'm aware of the late 1930s rebuild, though the frames were pretty much the main visible change. I think the late Tony Miles scratchbuilt his "S" class, and that had working inside motion. Question is, whose drawings did he use? Thanks also for the e-mail address of Mr. McLachlan; I'll get in touch to see if he has managed to unearth any drawings relating to the 1938/39 rebuilding process.

A resistance soldering unit, used with solder paint / solder cream, will also work well, and you will achieve some very neat, controlled joints.

Yes please! Basically everything between 171's frames: driving cranks, eccentrics, all motion parts, cylinders, piston glands, etc. Hope I'm not asking too much!

That's what happens with careless breeding...

Incidentally, all of the earlier build photos that I put in my posts are not showing up now when I view this thread via my PC, yet they are visible on iPad or Windows Mobile. *scratches head, puzzled* Rich: The footplate/cab/splashers are up, and I was wondering whether to press ahead with the smokebox, boiler and firebox anyway, as they have no effect on the chassis. I can't properly start the chassis until I have the drawings, as I have to see what's involved with the cylinders and inside motion, as much will need to be formed from scratch. I am wondering whether I could adapt one of Martin Finney's inside motion kits - the LSWR T9 motion set looks closest in terms of the crank webs and eccentrics. David: Half the problem for me of printing a drawing from a CD image is that the resulting print may not be to a consistent scale. Also, my printer can only do A4 size. I'd prefer to have a working drawing from the start, large enough to see everything, and then scale off that.