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Adrian

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Posts posted by Adrian

  1.  

    This is a start to finish series of videos on how to create weathered concrete for model railway depot hardstands using DAS weathering clay. Includes tips for modelling the clay, creating molds, painting, weathering and adding oily effects.

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    The playlist has 15  x 1 min videos to keep things nice and to the point :)

    You can watch individual videos or the full playlist is below...

    * Step 1: Create the mold

    * Step 2: Mold the wet clay into shape

    * Step 3: Separate the mold and clay

    * Step 4: Cut off the mold

    * Step 5: Sanding time

    * Step 6: Cut out the wheel grooves

    * Step 7: Cut out shed base grooves

    * Step 8: Spray paint concrete base colour

    * Step 9: Add grime to the rail and shed grooves

    * Step 10: Sponge dab a grey pattern weathering wash

    * Step 11: Add base colour of grime and dirt

    * Step 12: Add dirt and algae areas

    * Step 13: Add oily patches

    * Step 14: Add subtle weathering powder effects & highlights

    * Step 15: Add shiny oil reflections


    Full Playlist

     

    Feel free to comment and share, I always appreciate any feedback :)


     

    • Like 7
  2. 43 minutes ago, Geeb said:

    thats awesome Adrian you are quite tallented, i get terrified when i see the wiring diagrams but i guess im gona have to figure them out. thats exactly the idea i had for my own command center as such again didnt think there was gona be so much wiring lol i never soldered a thing in my life but i got one today from the amazon man so im gona practice on some fine cable before i touch resisters and cable for the lights and such before i move onto points and important stuff,

    love the layout so far man i look forward to following it

    Thanks dude! I was the same, never soldered anything before this time last year, there's a bit of fear at the start, but as you say, if you start practicing on random bits of wire, getting a single LED working etc you'll be flying. That's what I did anyway - here's some of my earliest experiments... :)

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/VfP7U8AKyb8oATDx9
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/NhUH1XjLJSMfHEwh8

    Quick tip, when soldering flux makes everything easier :)

     

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    @David HolmanHere's the vid for cutting out the grooves in the rails - one thing to note, they need to be 1.5 to 2 times wider than what you're seeing here - as I learned!

     

     

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1
  3. No worries @Geeb:)

    I haven't used Digitrax myself but from what others say it sounds like a good choice :) Most of the decent controllers (€200-€300) should last you years.
     

    Quote

    i like the idea of controlling the majority of the point work myself manually with toggle switches on a layout map but it would be nice to have some on the controller also.

    This is what I do, I am a software developer by day so prefer to keep as much analogue as possible on the layout (while also loving DCC :) ) You can see my control panel in the first post here - scroll down 4 or 5 photos: 

     

    • Like 2
  4. Happened me with DPD last week (on something else). I got a notification that it had been delivered (I can see my postbox from my home office) and also that it was signed for!! Apparently the local driver just marks them all as delivered and signed for in the morning before he heads out :) onto DPD and di some persuading to get him to go back, pick it up and bring it to me - the eircode was literally printed on the box :shrug

    • Like 1
  5. Oh wow, what a response! Thanks for all the comments and encouragement everyone :)
     

    Quote

    how did you get from the rails being completely covered over to the neat channels in the later photos?

    Hey @David Holman, with lots of learning! I cut along the inside of the rails with a scalpel and then used a metal ruler to cut along the channel, then dug it out with the scalpel, then I learned that the channels were too narrow which caught the wheels and I had left the surrounding clay a little too high which bumped them up and broke the contact (this is after spraying :( ). It was fine for stay alive fitted locos but not good on older ones. I had to resand and make the channels wider and respray again (which actually worked out well as the concrete ended up with two different textures). Then after weathering I learned that you gotta clean the inside top of the rails as well, as the locos were depending on that for contact (especially older Lima wheels which are not flat but at an angle). Then I learned not to let the varnish pool too much or it would lift the wheel again as it passed over lol.

    So trial and error on the first attempt but once figured out, the second hardstand went much smoother. I'll have a video up soon which shows the technique so will plop a link down here for ya :)

    • Like 10
  6. Hey Geeb,

    Welcome to the forum :) Sounds like you got to the root of the problem above (the Hornby controller). I got back into models last year and to test out DCC I got a combined freight Hornby train set to play with, it worked for that but anything serious needs a better controller (if you want to be able to change CV settings on the locos chip, you will also need something better as the standard horby controllers don't enable that). I would also advise going down the DCC route, it will save you a lot of hassle in the long run. If you are looking for recommendations: 

    1. I went with a Lenz Set 100 system with an LH100 handset - cost about £200 on ebay almost new - things to remember, usually you need a handset for control, a control unit which does all the computing and a transformer to provide power to the track :)

    2. I initially bought some standard Hornby DCC chips for €20 to start off, but they're totally useless, especially if you have any older locos. My favourite non-sound chip is Zimo MX600R which is about €30 and works really well with older locos if you have them, after Zimo, Bachman and Lenz chips are solid (IMO) unless locos have specific chips / sound chips made for them, as most Murphy Models and IRM models do, in which case snap them up!

    3. Lastly, if you (or others reading this) do have older locos with ringfield motors that you are attached to and want to run, I have found that with a bit of research, trial and error and practice, you should be able to completely convert them to a perfectly running DCC model for under €50. I usually replace the motor with a Strathpfeffer Junction CD motor conversion kit, (approx £10) add a Zimo MX600R DCC chip (€20) and a Lais Stay Alive chip (£10) - it's perfect for older Hornby and Lima locos, apart from the Hornby class 58 as it has a worm gear motor - but the chip and stay alive helps - if anyone wants more details on how I do this, just reply below and I'll do up a quick vid :)

    Welcome again!

    • Like 4
  7. Thanks to this gentleman @flange lubricator I am now the proud owner of my first 071, a lifelong ambition. It's a stunning loco and I am delighted, also picked up a 141 and 181 from him when we met for coffee. Proud to show it off next to the recently completed weathered concrete hardstands at my fledgling depot layout and my growing Irish collection :)

    That's the budget busted for now, but I'll be back looking for more in February...maybe March actually ;)

     

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    • Like 9
  8. Wow Fergal, class work there, am also a fan of DAS clay myself :) The scenery is beautiful and something to aspire to, love that you included Mt Leinster - I’m also learning as I go and chose a small depot to learn on instead of a country scene (layout topic being opened tomorrow).

    I’ll be following this one with great interest, I grew up in Carlow town in the 80s as well so the sugar beet is very familiar, all you need to work out now is how to get the “campaign” smell going 😂

    • Like 3
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