irishthump

Folks,

I threw together a quick video of how I set up and use the new settings on the 121 Sound decoders. 

Apologies for the quality, trying to take a video and use a throttle at the same time is not easy! 

Yes that looks like a blanking plate alright.

Was this installed in a loco?

1 hour ago, DiveController said:

The sugar cube as you say should be easier to source able and easy enough to refit as the model ages. Incidentally where does one get them from? 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264766583456

That was just the first one I found with a Google search. They're  readily available, Loksound even supply them with new V5 decoders.

As for motors, it should'nt be too hard to find a motor that will fit a 071. Or at least one that will fit with a minimum of modification. US modellers re-motor locos all the time, there are countless videos about the subject on Youtube.

1 hour ago, skinner75 said:

Could the stock speaker not be replaced with one of the 'sugarcube' ones in the future? Surely a snipping of a couple of wires & a bit of soldering would cure a dodgy stock speaker in the future, if no original spare ones were to be had?

 

I believe the 121 comes with a sugarcube speaker as standard.

There's nothing special about these speakers, they are readily available and can be replaced easily enough.  Although I would'nt fancy having to do surgery like that on a brand new loco!

3 minutes ago, Thom said:

Hi,

I have a IE 201 and also 071 models with DCC from Murphy’s

I can’t get them to run on a DCC line. They sit on the main track making their noise, with the lights on, and they run grand on a DC track.

The lights don’t respond to the lights on/off on a Guagemaster express controller

I’ve tried to reprogram them in a simple way on a Guagemaster express on a programming track, which works for everything else I have, but even with giving them new loco numbers:  I can’t get them to run?

Is there is a simple set of numbers I can programme in using the Guagemaster express sequence to get them to run?

thanks a mil,

thomas

 

You can try reset of the decoders by programming CV8 with a value of 8. This should reset the decoder to factory setting. Do it a couple of times to be sure. The loco addresses will also be set to 3 when you do this.

Let us know how you get on.

47 minutes ago, DB JOE said:

Thanks for reply  tried a complete reset cv8=8 no joy made sure decoder fully home on the pins still no joy tried the decoder in my other 2 121's got the same issue no main headlight im sure your right about the bit in cv's that need to be turned on its finding the correct cv and the bit dont want to mess about too much with the cv's and completely mess things up was thing of returning the decoder to marks models where it was purchased and exchanging for another see if I get the same issue

Replacing the decoder may be the best option at this stage. If you get the same issue with a new decoder then it may indicate an issue with the PCB but  think that’s unlikely if the lights work under DC power.

45 minutes ago, Noel said:

Agree. Drive hold allows one to easily simulate a heavy train starting off with associated notching and trashing, and slowly braking as it approaches a station. The V5 chipset also supports coasting but I'm not sure if anybody has implemented it. Its the one thing I really like about driving Mr Sound Guys Zimo projects, genuine coasting and prototypical braking. Drive hold allows LokSound to achieve the same prototypical driving.

Well it gets even better with the V5 decoders. They allow acceleration and deceleration times that are roughly 3.6 that of the V4. So if you set CV4 to maximum (255) it will take ages for the loco to coast to a stop. I have mine set up like this and also use the brake feature so I can turn the throttle to zero, let the loco coast then stop it with the brake. The deceleration value for the brake can be set independently. 
The V5’s also have a feature which allows you to set 3 different “load” settings for the loco. I have them set to mimic light engine, a light train and a heavy train. These are mapped to function keys. This basically does away with Drive Hold and Coast and makes the loco incredibly prototypical you drive.

3 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

Tks Thump,

Still mucking about with it. First Decoder have with that function in it. Also with 26 functions maybe its time to upgrade the DCC system now too.

No idea what 16 is - Manual notching Logic, Should that be lock?

Also the Dynamic brake, does that get used with F12?

You're supposed to activate the Manual Notching logic before notching up or down. If you leave F16 off when you notch up the loco will go to Run 8 mode which makes the engine spool up to top speed. Notching down with F16 off will make the engine drop right down to idle which is called Coast. If you activate F16 first then each press of F14 or F15 will make the engine go up or down one notch. If I remember correctly to go up or down one notch you need turn F14 or F15 on then off again, if you leave them on the engine will rev all the way up or down. 

Hope that helps, it sounds way more complex than it is!

2 hours ago, murphaph said:

The 121s didn't have dynamic brakes, right? I don't think anything Irish except the 201s had any form of dynamic brakes.

201's came with dynamics as delivered, but they were never used. No other Irish locos had them.

16 minutes ago, DB JOE said:

Still no luck with this issue. Is my Lenz system just not compatible with these new murphy chips??? Have tried the chip in my other murphys 121 models and same problem. No main headlight working even when model is moving!!!! I have found that F1 and F2 seem to work in reverse ie turning them on in the normal way on the lenz handset actually turns off the marker lights and turning them off on the lenz handset turns them on. The model works fine in analogue with all lights working. Seems I have a function mapping issue which Im not confident in my abilities to fix tend to make things worse. Any help would be appreciated

 

There should be no problem with compatibility, ESU decoders will work with any DCC system.

I suggest doing a hard reset, set CV8 to 8, then try again. This is best done on a separate programming track and 2 it a couple of times to be sure. 

7 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

Nice one Dave, Spent the last 40mins playing in the shed, The Notching is top class!

 

You should try Drive Hold instead of manual notching. It basically provides the same effect but you only need to use one function key.

24 minutes ago, DB JOE said:

Hi Guys

A little help required. Just got a murphys decoder (non sound) for my 121. I have movement in both directions and marker lights work fine but no main headlight either cab or bonnet end will work I know the headlight is working as I have tried it under analogue .All the micro switches have been put in the On position also  Do you need to function map the decoder so that the main headlight will work? I use a LENZ LZV 100 controller .Any help would be appreciated .Great model and silky smooth when running just like the main head light to  work also Many Thanks

Joe

Is the decoder the Murphy Models decoder specifically designed for the 121?

4 minutes ago, DART8118 said:

All good now and running silky smooth.  Lots of discoveries to be looked forward to.  Thanks for that.

You're welcome! Glad you got it sorted. Didi you install a sound decoder?

56 minutes ago, irishthump said:

Grip it from above with a needle nose pliers. Then apply gentle pressure and lift it straight up.

You can wiggle it very slightly as you do it, but ONLY a little otherwise you risk bending the pins on the plug or damaging the PCB.

3 hours ago, DART8118 said:

The blanking plug in my RPSI loco seems to be a tight fit.  Anyone got any words of advice about lifting it so that I can fit a DCC chip? 

TIA, 8118

Grip it from above with a needle nose pliers. Then apply gentle pressure and lift it straight up.

Just now, NIRCLASS80 said:

Sorry but I haven’t a clue what CV’s effect what as I have used a Lokprogrammer for years. 
Does anyone think there would be a market for a decoder programming service?

I'd say there might be a few modellers who may want the 121 decoder set up for independently controlled lighting.

When you make adjustments to the function mapping in the Lokprogrammer software if you click on the tools tab there is an option to show which CV's have been changed.

4 minutes ago, DART8118 said:

Thanks.  Don't have a Lokprogrammer and thought it might be something I could set with CVs on my controller.

You can do it with CV's but it's a bit of a chore and easy to mess up.

Great video. Do you only use the Drive Hold and Coast functions to drive the loco? What values do you program to Acceleration and Deceleration?

The way I set up my locos I put the Independent Brake function on F3 and set deceleration to maximum (255). I only use Drive Hold if simulating starting a heavy train. I never use Coast as with the high Dec value you simple turn the throttle down to 0, let the train coast and stop it with the brake on F3. I find this is very realistic way to drive the loco.

7 minutes ago, BosKonay said:

Do try to keep the thread on the 121 gentlemen

The DCC side of the 121 models is rapidly growing into its own thing. Could the relevant replies here and on other threads be merged into a separate thread?

10 minutes ago, connollystn said:

Do any of you guys actually 'enjoy' railway modelling?

DCC control, lighting and sound is a fascinating part of the hobby.

14 hours ago, NIRCLASS80 said:

20 minutes with a Lokprogrammer soon sorted the lights outs. All independent. 

That sounds good. Which file did you use?

9 minutes ago, murphaph said:

Good post. There will be plenty of time for a more in-depth discussion of mods or small improvements people may wish to embark upon (I may well replace the speakers for example for a double iPhone 6s job, for example). I'm looking forward to hearing the sound belt out of the open vents. Where is the factory speaker located within the body actually?

Not sure where the speaker is placed in the 121’s but contrary to popular belief it’s best to have a completely sealed body shell with one small speaker opening than to have large open sections in the shell.

Oh damn these are tempting!

5 hours ago, DiveController said:

Lots of companies used 'proprietary' hardware and software essentially to ensure they maximize their bottom line, that's nothing new.

If you use something else, then that may invalidate any warranty provided as part of the purchase agreement. This may be contingent on local statutes in the country of purchase.

If you go off label because it's cheaper or you want a different sound is up to the purchaser but if you do have a problem you're likely to find that the vendor will likely not be very accommodating of your request for a replacement (if available!) or a refund. You could litigate but would you want to bother?

I will say that generally I dislike this approach re use of 'proprietary products' and don't think it does much in the longer term for the vendor (unless you're don't plan any future products, I suppose)  

Except in this case there is nothing proprietary about the decoder or the software used on it.

3 minutes ago, Noel said:

Yummie. Outside USA should not be problem with AddressPal to get around that.

$482 for the throttle. Another $99 for the wireless adaptor for whatever DCC system you use.