irishthump

1 hour ago, DiveController said:

 

 

ON the topic of decoders, I presume if running this in consist (where the consist will rarely be split up), is anybody planning to put a sound decoder in BOTH locos of just one with a Lokpilot in the other?

Yeah I have sound in both my 121's. Mine needed to be speed matched but it did'nt take a lot of work. I also fitted a third decoder into one of my 141's and speed matched it witht the 121's so that I can mix and match consists.

Locos 126 and 132 sit in the (unfinished!) freight yard on my layout...

1 hour ago, gm171 kk said:

I suppose I'm just that good a customer. 

Yep I forget to mention I received 2 cards yesterday! 

A nice touch from the lads at IRM.....

11 minutes ago, Mayner said:

 

Apparently drivers really liked the  comfortable sound insulated cab with American AAR style control stands when the locos were first introduced, 

 

 

That's really interesting. I'd also heard reports that many drivers did not like the controls and the unusual (to them) seating position in the loco.

Just to say my locos came packed very securely and without a hint of rough handling. Half a mile of bubble wrap helped ensure this! Well done to the folks at IRM for the prompt delivery even at this very busy time.

Like has been said the locos are bloody stunning, you really need to get them in your hands to appreciate the level of detail. No photos I'm afraid, as I won't really get the chance to give them a good run-in until the weekend.

Popped in the MM sound decoders (super easy thanks to the clever design) and happy to report no speaker issues whatsover. But bloody hell they're loud! I'd urge other modellers to lower the overall volume as it would be quite easy to drive the small sugar cube speakers too hard and damage them.

One thing I will say, and this isn't criticism, is that while I appreciate the job PM did fitting everything under the hood I think he made life very difficult for himself by insisting on the see through body grills. Don't get me wrong they look very impressive but they would'nt be a deal breaker for me. I just think that space could have been used to install a larger, more robust speaker set up. 

Anyway,  first world problems indeed. They're a crowning achievment for Paddy Murphy and Irish RTR in general.

Little parcel waiting for me at home!

@Noel

If you're feeling brave you can try the following CV changes. If I'm right this shouldgive you independent control of the marker lights on F3 and F4. If it does'nt work then simple reset the decoder.

Remember to change the CV's in the EXACT order listed below and do it on a seperate programming track if possible.

CV31 = 16, CV32 = 3
----------------------
CV258 =   0

CV31 = 16, CV32 = 8
----------------------
CV257 =   1

CV31 = 16, CV32 = 3
----------------------
CV274 =   0

CV31 = 16, CV32 = 8
----------------------
CV273 =   2

CV31 = 16, CV32 = 3
----------------------
CV353 =   4

CV31 = 16, CV32 = 8
----------------------
CV353 =  16

CV31 = 16, CV32 = 3
----------------------
CV369 =   8

CV31 = 16, CV32 = 8
----------------------
CV369 =  32
 

1 hour ago, Noel said:

IR 127 arrived today. Borderline modern era for me but this livery really pops on the GM 121 class and looks great.  Put the Murphy Model supplied EMD 645 ESU LokSound decoder in it but struggled to understand some of the sound instructions and functions here: http://www.murphymodels.com/Class_121_DCC_Information.docx

I could not for the life of me find out which function or how to switch the head light on/off while the running lights remained on. It seems the two running lights and head lamp are programmed to operated together as a unit like the earlier 141/181s (ie all three on or off). I know the head lamp is wired separately to a separate aux function than the running lights so it should be possible if the decoder was programmed to facilitate same.  Gorgeous model. The speaker is working but is suffering very slight distortion. I've reduced the master volume CV63=60 which may save it from failing completely. No problems with hand rails or grab rails, all 100% in tact and in position as are both vacuum pipes. One needs to be careful unpacking not to knock the front cab end horn off when removing the padded box insert from on top of the loco. Beautiful precision runner. Will spend some running time tomorrow trying to find if there are any hidden 'full throttle features' (eg coasting, braking, train loads, etc). So far I haven't found any, it seems to have similar driving controls to the 071 and 201 projects which were also done by ESU for MM. Super sharp paint job. The tippex stripes are so well done. I do prefer the look of IR points logo over the later IE 3 pin plug logo. When I get the sound sorted out I will give this a very gentle weathering just to tame the orange down a little. Have kadees to fit as well. Happy days, thrilled to have one of these post CIE era models and looking forward to consisting with 143 or 156 hauling a rake of cravens and park royals, a mk2d set.

 

Noel,

Looking at the settings for the decoder in the Lokprogrammer software it seems that the marker lights are programmed to only work when the headlights are on. It's a little weird to be honest and there's an easier way to do it which results in the lights being able to be controlled individually like the 071/201 locos.

Also, there are no drive hold, braking or load settings activated on this decoder. Coasting is assigned to F15.

It's true that the decoder is lacking feature-wise but to be honest it's a minor quibble for me. DCC sound is not Paddy Murphy's area of expertise, ESU dropped the ball on this one. This decoder seems set up to suit European modellers, teh US guys are much more interested in prototypical operating and the FullThrottle features were developed by the US end of the ESU operation.

The good news is that the Full Throttle features are easily set up with the Lokprogrammer. They no longer need to be built in to the sound file as they are now intrinsic to the V5 decoder.

2 hours ago, flange lubricator said:

That's why I advise Caution ! Even with T Cut do a small test piece and go very easily with some on a cotton bud using Caution .

Understood, but nail varnish remover contains acetone which is a very harsh solvent. I’d be very wary of it on any kind of plastic or paint finish.

1 minute ago, flange lubricator said:

The simple answer is very carefully with nail polish remover a very tiny amount to test at first , then apply the new decal using decal fix .

Ouch! Nail varnish remover is strong stuff and could badly damage the paintwork, T-Cut is a far less aggressive.

6 minutes ago, DJ Dangerous said:

Marks Models' website still says "pre-purchase" . They've been green flagged for days now.

Are they actually in stock at Marks? Or is this just a publicity stunt?

See the link I posted above, they've got pics on the Facebook page.

2 minutes ago, BosKonay said:

They have officially landed. IRM preorders for IE and Supertrain liveries will start despatch Monday

Wonderful! Have both Supertrain locos arrived?

13 minutes ago, PJR said:

http://www.marksmodels.com/images/data/cat/51_big_1555665408_resize.jpg MURPPHY MODELS CL121 CIE SUPERTRAIN NO 132 http://www.marksmodels.com/images/green_flag.png In stock online (Code:MM0132) AVAILABLE TO PRE PURCHASE THIS ITEM WILL BE SHIPPED WHEN WE RECEIVE IT INTO STOCK

Railway modelling Ireland | Facebook

I see Marks Models posted on Facebook that they have 132 in Supertrain in stock. Have these officially landed?

Btw here's the thread where speed matching 2 or more locos was discussed...

121 Double Header - Questions & Answers - Irish Railway Modeller

56 minutes ago, controller said:

Hi Irishthump, I did as you suggested, CV54 to 0 and F1. I did it three times, but B131 is still pulling B125. I have the two locos run in, 30mins each direction. I will keep running them as stand alone and maybe they may loosen up a bit more. When I run them as MU there is a grinding noise from B131. I will do as you suggested a few more times and see will that help. Thanks again.

Controller.

Yeah 131 is obviously pulling against 125. 

I expect it may take a while both locos to really bed in. 30 mins in each direction really isn't enough to run a loco in anyway in my opinion, it takes a few hours of continous running. 

As Noel mentioned you could try adjusting CV's 5 and 6, but I'd give the locos a bit more running before trying that as you could find yourself back at square one if they end up in settling it and you've changed CV's!

20 minutes ago, Georgeconna said:

I ordered the last batch of 121 from the old Boss in Marks....easier and with Brexit did not want to take the chance!

Proper order! I'd never buy anything from Rails after seeing the loony prices they charge for 2nd hand shite on Ebay!

5 minutes ago, controller said:

Thank you gentlemen. I now have all sound up and running. I knew I could depend on the experts. If you could indulge me , I have one more small problem. One loco run faster than the other, and is inclined to drag the slower one. There is not much of a difference, but over time I am concerned it may damage the motor. Thanks again.

Controller.

Glad you got the sound sorted! One small thing, I'd have one loco set up so that the horn does'nt work while in consist. In real life the horn would only sound in one loco while double heading.

As regards the different speed, give the locos some time ro run-in before considering doing any adjustments. The gear train may just need to loosen up a little.

The docders also have an auto-tune feature. Place the loco on a piece of straight track. Set CV54 to 0 then press F1. The loco will take off like a hare for a few seconds then it will stop and the engine sound will start up. This calibrates the decoder to the motor. Dp it with both locos and see how they run together, you can go through process mulitple times if necessary.

Let us know how you get on.

57 minutes ago, controller said:

Hi Noel, Thanks for your reply. Would you be able to explain a bit more how do I check the value of CV 21 or CV19 to see if FN1 has been masked off. I think if I can do that, I might be able to fix the problem. I am not familiar with CVs at all.

Controller.

Hornby themselves have a series of videos on programming with the elite. Give them a watch first if you're unsure.

(115) Hornby | Elite User Guides - YouTube

There are list of CV's that control what functions will operate under the consist address. These may well be set incorrectly. Now I recommend babysteps when trying to reprogramme a Loksound decoder. They are quite complex and anything more than very basic programming should be done with either a Lokprogrammer or software like JMRI. 

For a start try setting CV21 to a value 201. This should allow the engine sound to operate in a consist. Let us know how you get on with that before trying anything more.

8 minutes ago, Dempsey said:

Are they still trading? I emailed about getting transfers and a few other items and as i haven't received a reply I'm wondering have they been hit by the pandemic? 

I put in an order the other day and received a reply from Des this morning so he's still operating. Maybe shoot him an email, he may have missed your first message.

The tragic part of it all is how Prowse's relationship with Lucasfilm soured over the years. During the making of Return of the Jedi he was accused of leaking details about the movie. By all accounts he was innocent but Lucas seemed to harbour a grudge against him ever since, even banning him from official Star Wars events.

Another kick in the teeth is that Prowse was among members of the main cast who were entitled to residuals from the profits of Return of the Jedi. Due to "creative" Hollywood accounting, despite grossing close to 500 million on a budget of just over 30 million, on paper, the movie never made a profit. 

1 hour ago, Galteemore said:

You can see why an alternative voice actor was used. Hard to imagine the threats of Vader with a West Country burr! 

You don't have to imagine it, here ya go...

(101) The Real Voice of Darth Vader...hilarious! - YouTube

3 hours ago, Alan564017 said:

irishthump, many thanks for the reply. Leaving one loco as is and the changing the other makes sense. I'm using a Hornby Elite, i've never tried to alter any CV's so im a little hesitant. The decoders are the lok-pilot (got them with the locos), so I presume the CV numbers you mentioned above still apply. 

If anybody knows or has advice on how to read/write CV's using a Hornby Elite, it would be much appreciated. 

If both decoders are LOkpilot you can use the Auto-Tune feature which may well improve things.

Just place the loco on a straight piece of track then programme CV54 to a value of 0. Then press F1 and the loco will take off like a rocket for a few seconds. (Make sure nothing is in the way!)

This reads feedback from the motor and stores it in the decoder. Do it with both locos and see how they run after that.

1 hour ago, brassnut said:

Thanks for your help folks I actually need 24 couplings as the tiny tiny tiny springs flew away 

The springs can also be bought separately, although they’re a pain to replace!

58 minutes ago, Noel said:

Curious how the Z21 can handle matching speed curves in consists

 

 

Yes, but not a lot of help to the original poster as he isn’t using a Z21.

4 hours ago, Alan564017 said:

hopefully someone can help with this. I very recently got two 121's, over the moon with them. I first ran them DC for a run in all good, with both on the same track, one was quicker than the other.

I installed the decoders (lok non -sound), got them running DCC, all good. I then set up a double header (or consist, im using a Hornby Elite). One still runs quicker than the other. 

I presume there is an adjustment to a CV required, im not well aquanted with adjusting CV's, any help would be much appriciated. 

It's a process the DCC gurus call "Speed Matching". There are many good articles and videos on the subject if you Google search the term. American modellers have great experience with this as they often run several locos in a consist.

Basically the process involves adjusting 3 CVs.

CV2 which controls the speed of the loco at speed step 1 on the throttle.

CV5 which controls the speed of the loco at max throttle speed.

CV6 which controls the loco's speed at the middle speed step.

Bear in mind that some cheaper decoders will not allow adjustment of these CV's.

Hopefully you have a large loop on your layout as this makes the process much easier. Set the 2 locos up a couple of inches apart and run them both at speed step 1. Adjust CV2 so they are at the same speed. Then do the same with CV5 while the models are running at top speed. Once you have those set work on CV6, it's much easier when you have CV's 2 and 5 matched. You probably won't get them running identically but just try to get them as close as possible. Also try to adjust the CV's on only one loco, adjusting it to match the other one rather than fiddling with CV's on both locos at once. That can get very confusing!