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irishthump

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Posts posted by irishthump

  1. The layout is DCC operated and wired all over. It is controlled from a Hornby Elite controller, which many people would recommend you avoid, but I have never had any issues with and it does the job perfectly for a layout of this size! The points are operated using standard switch and CDU control.

     

    Hope this helps :)

     

    Thanks Barl. The reason I was asking is that I noticed you used insulfrog points like myself. I've got a bit of flack over it from some purists who recommended live frogs but I did'nt want the hassle of wiring polarity switches. Personally, I have no problems with them once the track is cleaned regularly.

  2. 225 suffered damage to the cowcatcher, panelling, headlamp assembly, buffers, air system piping, brake system piping , wiring, bogies, diesel tank, caws equipment, hep equipment and air reservoir tanks. This happened after a fatal accident involving a tractor at a level crossing.

     

    How recent are these little "mishaps"?

  3. What do you guys think? Am I talking out of my arse?

     

    Absolutely not. DCC sound is not for everybody, it's just another facet of the hobby that you're either into or you're not. Obviously the sound can never match that of the real thing and for some that's a deal-breaker but I can understand that. It's the same as some modellers deciding to go with 21mm gauge track as opposed to 00 gauge just to go that extra mile in favour of realism.

    I myself have a half-and-half mix of sound and non-sound locos. I love the "play" factor of driving the sound equipped locos but an just as happy letting them run (almost) silently around the layout as well. And yes the novelty can wear off after a few hours but who ever gets the chance to run their locos for more than a few hours?!!! :D

  4. Sorry to put a damper on things but I got one of those soldering irons and I would recommend you to stay clear!

    The tips are of poor quality and are of the screw-in type so they are difficult to replace. On the plus side you get a set of tips for engraving wood which

    you might find useful.

    The stand works well though!

  5. When a speaker is in a sealed enclosure removing any part of that enclosure or simply drilling a hole in it will affect the sound not always for the bad but not always for the good. This applies to all speakers from something as small as a couple of centimetres to a rock concert speaker which a lot of the time have what's called a horn enclosure.

    The bass reflex speakers are enclosure designed where as the speakers in the 201/071 are free air. Removing the back from the enclosure could in time damage the speaker.

     

    Yes, removing the back can alter the sound, that's why most guitar amps have an opening at the back. But I noticed no difference when testing the speaker with and without the back.

    In fact I was careful to place the speaker face up under the roof grill with the metal chassis of the loco forming a box around the back of the speaker which DID improve the sound.

  6. I rememer reading that article when I was thinking about installing sound in my 141's. I did'nt fancy having to fettle any of the loco's innards to get a speaker to fit.

    Gareth in Model Shop Belfast recommended this speaker: http://modelshopbelfast.com/index.php/railways/irish-and-local/4-ohm-bass-enhanced-speaker.html

     

    If you remove the back of the plastic casing (which DOES NOT affect the sound in any way) the speaker will fit perfecly under the roof grill on the 141.

  7. I guess the 201 and 071/111 have the board and speaker all ready, so it's drop and go with the sound chip.

     

    The 141/181s require surgery.

     

    Well actually all that's needed on the 141/181's is to solder the connections for the speaker, it's not a huge job. I found the hardest part was getting the bloody body off!

  8. I hand paint all my built stock and while it is not a patch on any of the sprayed work seen on these pages,I find it much more rewarding and fulfilling doing it this way.

     

    Have to agree. I would'nt dream of getting anybody else to build, paint or weather any of my stock. It would'nt be mine otherwise!

  9. In the American market which is vast compared to the irish one once the manufacturers moved to China and could make a ready to run wagon for about 5 dollars more, the Kits have virtually died a death.

     

    I can understand that!

  10. I think having the choice of both would be the best way to go as I the thought of assembling a kit can be terrifying to some modellers!

     

    But I do agree that the kits can be just as costly as RTR when you factor everything in, price permitting I would be happy to go the RTR route.

  11. Well, close to 42'9" anyway!

     

    I had a few Hornby Railroad flats which I decided to cut-and-shut.

    Here's one glued up...

    A couple after the glue had set (I used 5 min epoxy).

    Some buffers made from filed-down tacks.

    Added some styrene detailing and Kadee couplers.

    All four finished and sprayed with red oxide.

    image.jpeg

    workbench009_zps75d6ddf1.jpg

    workbench004_zpsd6da0273.jpg

    workbench012_zps67da9d1a.jpg

    workbench014_zpse0f800b0.jpg

  12. Well said Tom,and credit to Stephen for the site,and the Mods

    who do a great job.400 members in a year is pretty good.

    I never knew it cost 2k to keep servers going in the year,I

    have no idea on this aspect,so thanks again.

    I don't think there is a need for feedback section,as any

    requests are always looked at.Sorry for off topic again.

     

    I also never considered the cost of keeping the site running. Well done to you, sir. The site is an invaluable resource for the Irish modelling community and I'm one of many who have benefitted from the advice and expertise of it's members.

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