irishthump

Picked my 086 up from Mr Bracken this evening and have to say it's a cracking model, the detail is just superb. I stuck in a decoder and it is now happily getting run in on my layout!

Check the electrical pickups to the wheels on the loco and check the decoder is seated fully?

I would say it's the pickups. You can get a lot of crap building up on the inside of the wheels where the pickups touch the

wheels, bare in mind that over lubricating the loco can cause dirt and dust to stick.

As regards the squeaking, was the loco properly ran it when you first got it? It's recommended that you run a loco for at least 30 mins at medium speed in both directions to help bed-in the gears and to work the factory applied lubricant around the mechanism.

Some rolling stock may need a damper to give it heft when reversing (and also to prevent it rolling away if there is any slope while shunting). You can do this by putting a piece of sponge between the wheel centre spindle. Getting stock to separate consistently takes time and patience but the effect is well worth it especially at exhibitions!

I had to do this with my Mk3's as they were just too free wheeling. When hauling coaches over the magnets they would uncouple near all the time! I attached a small piece of copper strip to one bogie and adjusted it so that it was just touching one axle.

Also check out these two videos. Although he is talking about larger scale models all of the info is applicable to oo gauge and I found it a huge help.

My problem is that the Kadee is either not uncoupling over the magnet or when I go to couple up they are not connecting.

I do the usual backwards and forwards over the magnet but they don't seam to spring apart very often so I spend all my time going backwards and forwards over the magnet.

Anyone have the same problem.??

Wiggy.

It sounds like this is an issue with allignment of the coupler. If they are off centre the magnet will pull the trip pins together rather than apart. Kadees have to be alligned dead straight over the centre line of the wagon to work right. It may help to glue the pocket in place once it's dead straight.

The 321 uncouple also has to be dead centre of the rails, this is really important with this particular magnet, if it is even slightly off it won't work reliably.

Coupler height may also be an issue; with the 321 uncoupler the trip pins should just brush the top of the magnet when they pass over it. If you don't have one already get one of the coupler height gauges. Many of the NEM coupler pockets can be at the wrong height. I found the pockets on Dapol box vans to be a shade low.

Misalignment will also cause problems when coupling up BTW.

I decided to add a canopy and lighting so came up with this...

I figured a single, white led would be enough.

The canopy is just corrugated sheet styrene.

And here it is wired in and placed on the layout.

B165 takes on fuel!

Thanks for all the positive comments lads.

@ Glenderg - yes, I used track pins for the valves!

All painted up...

I really was'nt happen with using the wagon tank, it just did'nt look right. So I scratchbuilt this...

Add a ladder and a quick coat of Halford's primer...

Weathered and put in place.

I also scratch built a loco fuelling point for the layout, based around the Knightwing kit.

The base is 6mm MDF and I scribed the edging pattern into it, the tank is from an old wagon and the rest is offcuts of styrene and other bits and bobs.

I'm not sure if I'll put a canopy over the pumps, and I may switch the tank for something better looking.

A long overdue update...

Sitting at home nursing my now tonsil-less throat I did these to pass some time, a "toad" and a couple of siphon G parcel vans.

Looks spot on!

Lads and lassies,

I came across this weathering tutorial today, some very interesting techniques are described in detail with excellent photos. It's aimed at US outline

but it's still a good read.

In it's PDF form, just follow the link.

http://wnrr.net/WeatheringTips2.pdf

Congratulations, Stephen!

That's very impressive work, Eigyro.

As regards the wiring for the circuit, do you have any problem with an inrush of current to the capacitor causing the DCC system to interperet it as a short?

IT LOOKS TO ME LIKE THE "BIDDING" FINISHED 4 HRS, 3 MIN. BEFORE THE BIDDING WAS DUE TO END

No one else was interested, end of story.

LOOKINGAT THE TIME THE AD ENDED, AND THE TIME THE WINNING BID WAS PUT IN, SEEM'S A BIT STRANGE TO ME, JUST SAYING LIKE,

 

" 02 Mar, 2013 16:23:51 GMT" = BIDDING DUE TO END

 

 

" 02-Mar-13 12:20:42 GMT " = TIME WINNING PUT IN

Don't see what's strange about it. The winning bid had already reached roughly what you would pay for a new class 37, so no one was willing to bid any higher.

Thanks for comments lads, I was worried it was a tad overdone but after looking at some photos in Rails Through the West I see that some freight sidings got in a far worse state!

@Glenderg - yes it needs variety, I have a static grass applicator on order so it's likely to get more overgrown! Once the "natural" debris is done I'll start in on the real rubbish!

But it will have to wait a while, I had my tonsils out Monday. So I'm sitting here at the PC feeling sorry for myself...

A few more pics after I managed to add some foliage.

I went for a VERY overgrown look, don't know if I've overdone it it a bit! What do you think, lads?

Really nice job, man!

Lovely work, great job on the yard lighting:-bd Must have a crack at doing it sometime. Are you planning a container yard? Would like one on my own lay out. Finally it seams there'll be a half decent 'reach stacker' in 1:76 on the way from Oxford Diecast in a few months. Should be good

Yeah I was planning to make it a container yard, so that's great news about the reach stacker!

Hi Kirley,

 

The resistor should always go to the LONG or POSITIVE leg on the LED.

The power will not pass through the diode from neg to pos so putting resistor on that leg is no use.

 

Hopefully that helps.

It actually does not matter, the resistor will break the circuit regardless of which side it's wired.

My understanding is that the resistor must always be connected to the positive (long) leg of the LED.

No, it does'nt matter as long as it is present in the circuit.

Lovely, lovely work, Rangermouse.

As for a baby GM being too dirty, not a chance!

It does'nt matter whether you attach the resistor to the positive or negative, I think it's just ggod practice to pick one side and stick with it when wiring up.

You'll definatley have to disconnect the red leds and make sure there working independently of the loco.