irishthump

Some of the best weathering I have ever seen.

I have used two Mk3's on ajoining tracks to test clearances, work OK so far.

Yep, a couple of MK3's are yer only man!

<splutter>!!!

 

That's on the todo list alright

 

Eventually.......

 

Ah sure why spoil the view!

The track basically turns after the throat junction, then takes a sweeping curve to meet the next junction - the photos make it seem a bit more abrupt maybe than it is - the entire wave is about 8 feet

I wish you had put up that picture before I opened my big mouth! It looks a lot better from that direction...

Timber train has cleared the line In prep for track laying and the start of the curve to the left ahead, heading for the lift-out section in front of the door, before the viaduct!

 

Too wavy?

Personally I would try to have one long, gentle curve. It can be a bit peculiar looking if a long train's coaches are bobbing from side to side! Have you got the space to do that?

Everything looks great though!

And I'm right behind you in the green

Jaysus, Anto.... you must have got there even earlier than me!

Hi,

I'm using the Murphy Models dedicated decoder which works fine EXCEPT that the F2 High Beam only comes on when when the function button is being pressed and won't stay on ???

Yeah, I have a Prodigy Advance and the F2 key is "non-latching". You can alter the CV settings but as far as I know functions 0 through 2 can't be operated by function keys 3 and above. I'm not exactly sure if this is true for all models of decoder....

You can programme the decoder so as to have the marker lights and headlight activated by F0 but I guess that spoils the fun of having seperate marker lights and headlights!

Well thanks to Jack, you all know what I look like.... first picture, second from left, wearing the glasses!

Definitely a great mix of stands. Roll on February. (Money to spare after the Christmas madness)

Amen to that!

Have to agree, well organised (apart from that dodgy character on the door!) and plenty of stuff on offer. I only picked a few small bits and pieces myself, hopefully will have a few bob to spend at February's gig.

Hmm, I'm waiting on the glue to go off on a two row option, will test that shortly also...

I did'nt have much luck with that myself!

I was able to work quicker as I was using a small metal plate to hold them temporalily in place, which is handy for rearranging them into different configurations.

Like I said I'll post some pics later.

On the subject of the magnetic uncouplers, I was experimenting with them again last night and managed to get the delayed uncoupling to work, albeit not 100% reliably.

I ended up removing 1 sleeper and placing 3 magnets, poles facing up, in a row. You won't get them right next to each other as they repel, but you just push them as close as possible.

I'll be working late so will have to post some pics later on.

At the moment, there will be sweeping hillside both sides of it, sweeping down to the valley floor where maybe a river and country lane will intersect it. The viaduct itself it beautifully finished, so much so that I'm thinking of painting and weathering it as it is, as a concrete structure...

Sounds good!

Any plans on finishing the viaduct?

Absolutley top class!

What's the handiest way to get to the Stillorgan Park Hotel using public transport? Is it far from the Luas at Sandyford, or is it better to get a bus?

It's also about 20 mins walk from Blackrock Dart station if you fancy getting som exercise in while you're at it!

Well I'm going to mess around with it again this evening. I'll let you know how I get on.

Hmm, yep, so far I'm sticking 4 in a row and slotting the 'brick' into the sleeper gap. It works by pushing the couplers apart very well.

 

What kind of problems are you seeing?

 

I wonder would poles up make them more effective.... (will try!)

The NEM Kadess seem to work ok most of the time. But the magnets are'nt pushing the draft box Kadees over far enough to use the delayed uncoupling. They open fine and you can uncouple stock though.

I do think I need to bring the magnets closer to the top of the rail though, they seema tad low with the code 100 track.

Have you a kadee gauge to check height? I found some of mine where too low and would catch on the magnet. Once I adjust all the Kadees to the same height, they work well.

 

I also saw a tip online for putting in multiple rows of magnets to create a larger uncoupling area

Yeah I have the gauge, and all my uncouplers work perfectly with the Kadee magnets that I have already installed. I was having more luck with the cube magnets when I placed them with their poles facing upwards, but you you're just placing them with the poles horizontal and the magnets stuck together am I right?

Tried that at first and while it works for the NEM pocket Kadees the draft box ones don't seem to like it.

Gareth I don't need any more arm twisting as to whether I should or shouldn't after what I've heard, once Christmas is out of the road I will be ordering one.

 

Rich,

You won't be the only one! I knew it would be hard to top the 141/181 sound chips but these have done it and then some...

Sorry to change the subject lads, one for Boskonay and Anto regarding the kadee uncouplers...

I got some of the 3mm cube magnets but I'm having trouble getting them to work reliably. Like yourselves I placing them 4 in a row between the sleepers, but polarity-wise which way do you have them facing? I also think I may have them a little low, I have them sitting on the underlay and I'm using code 100 track so I reckon I might need to shim them.

Any tips?

Lovely job!

Any pics of the lights working?

Yeah I tried it myself on the last bit of ballasting I did and it works like magic, great tip Anto!

Lovely stuff! The paint job and livery on the A class are spot on. What paint did you use?

Thanks for the update Dave. It will be nice to get Christmas out of the way and it gives people time to save and something to look forward to in the new year.

 

Rich,

Amen to that!!!