irishthump

Try this:

 

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod842206

 

It's satin finish and it's almost idiot proof to use. For excellent results I suggest you warm the model. Only to the point that it's warm to the touch and certainly not hot.

The Purity Seal is good stuff, I do a lot of wargaming and have used it a lot. I use the matt version of the Windsor and Newton as a base coat for weathering powders and have found it dries very quickly, but the point about warming the model is a good one. If you leave the model in a cold shed or garage to dry then you will be a long time waiting, especially in the damp weather we've been having lately.

Dont cut the grass Graham it looks realistic and paves the way for the weed sprayer.

You know what, I think you're right. I was contemplating mixing different colour flock into it as well but the more I look at it the more I think it should be left a is!

Your layout is really starting to take shape. Looking good. Where did you get the hanging basket liner as my local B&Q don't do it.

I got the liner in Woodies but they only come in small round shaped pieces, they don't stock in on a roll. I did'nt need much so it did'nt matter but it would be expensive if you needed to cover a large area!

Where can I get one of those? The understanding wife that is!!!

Seriously though, that's one impressive model. The detail is stunning.

Well the power supply for my Prodigy Advance decided to die last week so I find myself with plenty of time to actually work on some scenery!

Here's where I'm at...

The terrain is make from styrofoam sheet cut to shape with a hot wire cutter. I covered this is a mix of plaster with little PVA mixed in and this was then covered with

brown paint for the grass area and grey for the rocky area to the right which lead up to a tunnel mouth.

The grass section was covered with hanging basket liner stuck down with neat PVA.

Some close ups...

It's a wee bit overgrown looking, I may trim it back a bit at a later stage.

I've also started weathering the track. I painted it with Rustoleum primer whish gives a nice rusted effect which looks a little bright in these

photos.

The rocky area needs a drybrushing with a lighter colur to bring out the detail and probably a few washes.

This was my cunning plan for concealing that unsightly corner!

Managed to weather some stock too, here's B165 which MK2s and Generator van.

Hi Guys,

 

I'm sure there are some guys here who have fitted decoders to Athearn SD9 and SD45 chassis/motors. Is there any specific decoder that anyone recommends or are they fairly accepting of most decoders?

 

Thanks in advance

 

David

I have'nt fitted decoders to the chassis' you've mentioned but I've hardwired decoders to a few locos. The main thing is that you make sure the model runs well on DC before fitting any decoder. If it runs well on DC then it should be fine for DCC regardless of the make of decoder.

I would stear clear of Hornby decoders though!

Slightly off topic...

I'm planning to repaint a rake of Hornby MK3s to go with the 071, I assume the Supertrain livery is the most appropriate?

At a guess the body could be the same as the 141s and as

the 071 is supposed to come with built in speaker for sound

chips,it should be handy enough,we will have to wait and see.

Built in speaker? Great news!

It looks fantastic!

How about decoder installation, is it the same drill as with the 141/181s or can it be done without removing the body?

What code of peco track are you using?

Code 100.

I have about 50/50 Peco and Hornby on my layout and to be honest I don't see any real difference in running quality with regular staright and curved track. I actually find Hornby flextrack slightly easier to work with laying it on the baseboard.

Points are another thing though.

Contrary to what most people seem to recommend I only use insulfrog points on my layout and have a mix of both Hornby and Peco setrack points. The Peco certainly seem to be of better quality, are sturdier and give a more positive throw action. But I have'nt noticed any difference in running. One issue is that if, like me, you use older running stock you can have issues with older wheelsets bridging the insulated frog and causing a short. This only happens with the Peco insulfrog, as the plastic section is smaller.

Nice tidy work on the baseboards...

Love the shed too; a good size space on ground level, I'm well jealous!

Sharpe blade (Stanley knife or scalpel) gives you a nice sharp straight cut.

I agree Anthony, if you use a snips it's easy to pop the sleepers away from the track.

€135 is very cheap...

The only thing with the Bachy Class 20 is that it does'nt come with directional lights, which I think is weird for a DCC fitted model.

No idea Pat, just lying in the end of a box of stuff,

I dont imagine a curved piece of track aiding railing of stock, which would be easier to rail on a straight?

Anyway there they are..........

I would say they are rerailers.

Yeah it's easier to rail on the straight, but these may be supplied in sets that just contain a simple circle of track.

Snapper I use adhesive or strong double sided tape to put all the different grades of wet and dry on ice lolly sticks. You get loads for your money, a nice little file like tool, and I have an indispensable amount that will last me a modelling lifetime. Simple and easy to make and they are great tool's. This one has definitely seen better days.

 

I buy cheap emery boards (the ones for doing your nails!) from the local Euro shop. The get about 30 in various sizes and grades for 2 Euro.

A different class, man!

Hi, Frank.

Try this method: http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8094&st=15

I used it myself before I switched to Kadees. Takes a bit of work but it costs very little, and you can just add the modified couplers to locos and the end of a rake if you like.

Your model train as we all know is like the real thing in miniature. When you attach the kadee coupling to the bogies the coaches bogies are been pulled in opposite directions buy the weight of the train. This can lead to derailments and bad running when using kadees. When you fit them to the body this acts like the real train and the pulling forces are absorbed by the body/chassis this leaves your bogies free to just do their job. I would stay well clear of kadee #5 for coaches as they are far to short try something like a #146

Cheers, Anto. #146's it is!

As for me I'm returning to this hobby after 20+ years, but have been an avid sci-fi modeller and wargamer for most of those years. My first train set was a good old Lima freight set with a class 55! I got that when I was about 10 or 11 but I lost interest after a couple of years.

My own kids love the fact that Dad "plays with trains" and they love running my layout but they soon get bored and have no interest in actually helping with any construction. Oh, but they do constantly ask "is it finished yet?" so I know they're interested to some extent...

Thanks for the feedback and info, lads.

I think I'll try what you're suggesting, but at the moment I only have the NEM couplers. Would no. 5's be the best bet for mounting on the body?

Cheers, Anto.

Any particular reason why that method is better? I know American HO modellers fit them pretty much exclusively to the wagon bodies....

I decided to switch to Kadees on my layout a while back but have only just got round to buying in the couplers and uncoupler magnets.

I fitted the under-track magnets on the layout during the week and tested them with all of my locos, so far so good!

As I have a lot of older wagons and coaches (Lima, Hornby and Triang) I have to convert these to take the couplers.

Here are my first attempts....

My first victim was a Lima parcel van. My coaches have the same bogies so it was a good place to start.

I cut away the old coupler with a razor saw and filed the area flat.

I was very lucky with this one; I just glued in an NEM pocket from a Bachmann coupler and this just happens to sit at the right height.

NEM pocket:

I used epoxy to get a good joint, clamped it up and let it go off.

After the glue set a quick check with my Kadee gauge...

Looks OK to me!

This Hornby tank wagon was a little more difficult. As you guys know the tension hook is attached with a small rivet. I drilled this out ....

Then tried the NEM pocket but found it sat way too low.

I simply measured how far it was protruding, removed the same amount from the fixing post on the bottom of the wagon then glued on the NEM pocket.

Once again tested with the height gauge; looks fine.

All the Kadees are no.20s and while I know it would probably have been better to fit couplers with gear boxes and springs these seem to handle the curves on my layout without any problems. Tightest curves on my layout are 2nd radius.

Export models like GM's G8 were available at the same time, John, but I think that discussion is for another thread...

 

I think the only reason the B class order went ahead in the end was because CIE were told to do something with the engines or BRCW would dispose of them because they were taking up useful storage space.

I think CIE would have incurred a financial penalty for cancelling the order as the engine equipment had already been built, so they decided to swallow it and store the engines for future use.

I may be wrong, but were'nt they stored in Dalkey for a while?

Lads,

I have the same compressor in the link Richie posted, and I also have the gravity-fed airbrush although I bought them seperately. I find both of them to be fine and I would highly recommend them.

Like Anto said, it's about technique and an expensive airbrush won't help with that. There's nothing wrong with going the inexpensive route especially when starting out, then by all means upgrade if you feel the need.