irishthump

Just curious, is she up for sale, Dave?

To be honest while the Select is a bit limited not sure its as bad as some people seem to think - then again I've never used any other so not sure what I'm missing

I thought the same thing. I started with a Hornby Mixed freight set, which ran lovely so I could'nt understand the complaints. I soon found out that the Select will run fine with it's own decoders that are installed in it's locos. The problems start when you run other makes of decoder on the Select. Likewise when I started running the locos from the set with my Prodigy Advance, crap running right from the start.

I assume it is possible on all of the main vendors NCE, Gaugemaster, Lenz etc to upgrade the firmware on the controller. I know Hornby only allow it on the Elite and for the Select to need to actually send it back to hornby themselves.

You will find that ther systems don't need to have their firmware updated because it works properly!

That just proves what they say about DCC systems made by train set manufacturers.

Thanks for the advice. Would those two decoders have enough functions for the 201 to fully work, including sound?

When you say Decoder I assume you mean controller?

Then yes, they both have more than enough.

Is there any relatively cheap (£150 or lower) unit that could carry out all the functions?

The Gaugemaster Prodigy Express is available for £124 from Hattons.

http://www.ehattons.com/stocklist/45/8/73/0/Gaugemaster_Controls_Any_or_multiple_scales_DCC_control_equipment_and_points_decoders/prodlist.aspx

Also the NCE powercab can be got for £131.

http://www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/pd-670066615.htm?categoryId=89

I went for Gaugemaster but bought the Advance 2, and I would highly recommend it if your budget can stretch the extra few quid. I was thinking about the Powercab

myself but was turned off it by the fact you can only have 2 locos in the recall stack. A problem they were going to address but not sure if they have done it yet.

Anthony is a Powercab user and he speaks highly of it, so maybe he can give more info.

A word of warning about using the Selecty with sound decoders! I had three 141/181 chips which malfunctioned on me and I have an idea it was something to do with the Select.

Search the Web for reports of Select problems, the list is frightening...

Likewise with the Dynamis, the general opinion is to steer clear of "Train Set" DCC controllers and go for a dedicated DCC manufacturer's system.

Just a word of thanks to Model Shop Belfast for their help and service.

Had some problems with my 141 sound decoders (which may well have been my own fault!) but got in touch with Gareth and he arranged to replace them

for me. No hassle, no quibble even though I had bought them a few months ago. They arrived today and are working great!

Thanks again Gareth.

a little tip guys as I worked on a production line in a electronics factory many moons ago.

Before you turn off your iron put more solder on the tip area and this keeps the thing in good

order and prevents corrosion and rust especialy if the iron is only used a small bit.

Spot on, Eamonn.

I have one of those Halfords irons as well, just be sure clean and tin the tip when you are finished. I've done a heap of soldering on my layout and I'm still on the tip I got with the iron.

Looks great. You could try one of these http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Products/Keep-Alive/Keep-Alive.php to stop the flickering.

Thanks man.

I can live with the flickering on the tails lamps, but I'm considering fitting a couple of those to my 2 Hornby locos. They're both 0-6-0 and can struggle on some of my pointwork.

The Hornby track mat is a great base to start a beginer layout . it will get you used to setting up it needs some very basic skills to put together and more importantly it will be fun to use

I would agree. I started back into the hobby with the Hornby Mixed freight set, and the track mat is great for getting a feel for track laying in general.

The Hornby points can be a bit iffy but the rest of their track is fine for general use, when I started my attic layout I used Peco points and relegated the Hornby ones to the lesser used sidings.

Like Mayner said be careful with tight curves when running long locos and coaches, the 2 outer curves on the track mat are fine, but longer stock will struggle with the tightest curve.

The kadee magnets are your only job and you can get them from kadee dealers or eBay

I am looking for Kadee no 308 is that right? Bloody typical! Could'nt find them for love nor money last time I looked...

Kadee produce their own magnets which can be mounted on or under the track, they are designed to work perfectly.

Yeah, but I'm having trouble locating them, just wondering if there was an alternative.

Lads,

I have been experimenting with various methods of coupling/uncoupling on my layout. I had been using using the Brian Kirby method, for any of you

unfamiliar with it here's a video showing how it works.

It's easy, cheap and works very well but it involves fitting magnets under the track at every place you may need to uncouple.

I boight a few Kadee no. 20's off Ebay just to give them a try and I have to admit they seem great, if a little fiddly!

Just looking for some advice from anyone who uses them; which magnets do you guys use for uncoupling? I have been experimenting with square magnets from cupboard latches which is what the Kirby ones use but they're a bit unreliable for the Kadees.

Thanks for all the advice - I have it running in as we speak, is running DCC alright but I guess that shouldn't make and difference.

I don't think it makes a difference if you run it in on DCC. I think the reason manufacturers recommend you run in on DC before converting to DCC is so that you can be sure the loco is running properly before you chip it. If you install the chip and it does'nt work, at least you'll know it's not the loco!

On the subect of running in; I gave each of my 141s a run of about 45 mins in each direction (without any coaches or wagons) on DC before fitting them with DCC decoders. You can actually hear the diefference in the motor, it runs more smoothly and quietly.

Should clarify that the screwdriver is only used with very gentle pressure to provide a little leverage. On the 141s I've tried to remove neither of them simply pulled off I know the official instructions say to just squeeze the sides and lift up but it didnt work for me after nearly 20 mins and very sore fingers!

 

Following the instructions (suggesting the screwdriver leverage) the body came off immediately and no damage to anything. However, I guess like everything do so at your own risk!!

I can't seem to get the hang of removing the bodies by squeezing the sides either. My own method (after removing front cab) is to turn the loco upside down, you can get at the tabs that hold the body on if you turn the bogies to the side. It's then a simple matter of easing the tabs away one by one and the body comes off easily. Another advantage of doing it this way is that you don't need to remove the side railings.

Yes Rich I understand but you got to remember that she is probably one of the busiest working steam locos in the UK at present. I want to portray her as she is in real life. Not filthy but in a preserved working condition.

One big let down with the model is the coal in the tender it looks nothing like coal. So that's one thing that will be addressed with real coal

Have to agree Anto. A very light weathering would set this loco off perfectly. It just would'nt be right to have a spotless loco on a detailed layout like yours, it just seems out of place.

Your wallet will be opened as well!

Yes Eamonn-I've the prodigy ordered and I'm expecting it during the week,

Did you go with the Advance 2? I have one myself and it's a great piece of kit.

Very nice, you never see pictures of heavily weathered Supertrain 141's,

How about these...

OK, I know one is a 181....

I decided to fit some taillights to my home-made Dutch generator van.

Here's the result...

I think I may have mounted them a little high, but anyway...

The lights are DCC controlled and I attached pickups on all four wheels to reduce flickering. The pickups are from DCC supplies and are very easy to fit.

Testing, testing....

I had some trouble with the Hornby decoders I used in this van and the brake vans I fitted lights to. If there was any sort of break in the current the functions would switch off and have to be turned back on again (this does'nt happen with my other decoders, if you activate the lights and take the loco off the rails when you replace it back on the track whatever function lights you had activated would come back on.) I expected some flickering since I use insulfrog points but the lights going out was just plain annoying!

I got around the problem by wiring the lights to the motor output wires on the decoder.

Hello all! New site looks great....

Can I ask is the old site "due to be scrapped"?

Judging by the 141/181's the Super Train livery seemed to be the hardest to sell. If Paddy has his head screwed on right he will bring that livery out first so that it will sell.

Suits me, that's the livery I'm looking for!