irishthump

Stunning as always, Anto. Have to say your work never fails to impress...

Can I ask, are the lights DCC controlled or just powered direct from the track?

Hi

 

Anyone know what one would be expected to pay for brand new 141/181's?

Looking to add to the collection and just wondering would they be up there with the 201's on price terms or would they be decreasing.

Any info appreciated:-bd

 

WSOTT <-------Shortened name

I have seen them in Mark's Models for 135 euro.

My advice is to give Dave Bracken a PM. (WRENNEIRE is his username here).

He'll look after you...

Their ain't fitted with the old pancake motors the have new motors fitted and are very quiet

Oh, I know. I was just saying the pancaske motors did perform well.

I wonder have Horby done anything with the wheels?

 

The biggest problem with Lima was that after a few weeks running the wheel plating got badly pitted, pick up and runnng suffered and it was a constant battle to keep the wheels clean.

 

The HO/OO stuff was not to bad their N Gauge locos lasted an average of about two weeks.

 

John

True. I have a couple of old Limas that I converted to DCC, they run fine but as you say the wheels are muck! I'm considering switching out the wheelsets whenever I get around to it.

And as Warbonnet says, don't mention those traction tyres!

Having said that the old Lima pancake motors will pull anything, noisey as hell though.

Layout looks great, Anto!

The Railroad range are pretty tempting, you can get either one of those locos for under €60. From what I understand they are Lima toolings with newer motor bogies.

How are they as regards powerpickup? Have Hornby fitted them with more pickups?

Thanks for all you help and patience with this guys. Not being a prototypical modeller at all, I don't think I gave enough realistic thought to the layout. I just wanted to able to run trains in a continuous loop while shunting in the freight yard!

@Mayner

It's a not a terminus and I intend to use the siding adjacent to the up platform for passenger services as well, maybe a push-pull or DMU.

Is it ok to use 2 aspect signals for the up and down lines? I would imagine I would be positioning them at the end of each platform.

Well, I can provide you with working aspect signalling.

http://www.studio-scale-models.com/Signals.shtml

 

 

Regarding where it goes...

 

To summarise Modelling Irish Railways (p.44)

Discs/aspects control shunting movements involving running roads. Headshunts can be protected by trap points and a disc signal.

They are applied where a crossover at a platform end provides access to a siding/yard

I actually have that book, think it's time to read it again!

Thanks for the advise Weshty, but I already picked up some 2 aspect signals... SORRY!

To hell with a rolling road! Use the need for a test track as an excuse to build a seperate track!

simple to fit once you have the body off, I think its better to go with one without the harness as fits directly onto the pins in the loco.

I would agree, a harness would get in the way with the limited space inside the narrow body.

Here's a TCS 21 pin without a harness, should do the job.

http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=4721

I recently picked up another 141 and decided to just put a non-sound decoder in it. (My other 3 141s are all DCC sound chipped.)

I ended up using a Hornby Sapphire that I had lying around, works fine.More expensive than the Bachmann, but I think it has a few

extra programming features.

Here's the basic layout from my control panel to give you an idea.

I plan to put station platforms on the double main line somewhere between the two crossovers. The siding directly above the mainline will also be served by one of the platforms.

Folks,

Now that I'm installing my point motors I wanted to add some basic signalling to the layout.

The SEEP point motors have the built in polarity switch so I added the wiring to allow LEDs to be ran from them.

Can you guys give me any advice on how the signalling should operate? ie placement and type of signals around mainline crossovers and sidings etc... It does'nt have to be strictly prototypical at all.

I think I will be pretty much limited to 2 aspect signals, and wondering how to best incorporate them.

Welcome man,

Anto is a Powercab user and from what he has said there should be more than enough power for running those 4 trains at once.

I'm sure he'll chime in at some stage with more info for you.

I only got back into the hobby myself after 20+ years, and decided very early on to go the DCC route. I myself went for the Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance 2 and it more than meets my requirements. But shop around and get as much advice as you can before deciding on a system. There are a couple of other threads about this subject in the Q+A section, have a read!

no other word for it...beautiful!!!

Yep, absolutely stunning stuff...

Got started on the wiring...

Managed to get 3 points wired up and working before the heat in the attic overcame me!

Using mainly SEEP motors but because a couple of the points are right above baseboard supports I ended up using Hornby surface mounted motors, but they seem to be working fine.

Nice one!

 

What kind of points / control are you using?

SEEP point motors through a CDU.

Made a start on the control panel today; used car lining tape to make the track diagram then drilled holes and attached the point switches.

Progress so far...

I also placed a switch next to my programming track so I can drive locos onto the track normally.

A lot of soldering to be done tomorrow!!!

Whenever I look at a 141/181 now that hasn't been wheathered it just looks unfinished to me.

Here, here!!!

Lovely flowing curves!!

Thanks for the kind comments, lads!

The flowing curves really came about as the shpae of the layout did'nt lend itself to Settrack geometry. I basically could'nt get it to fit in the available space, so I used Flextrack instead!

Have to say though. nicer to work with in general than standard pieces.

Looking good, love those oil tankers, is that scenic rust you used for the weathering, works very well.

You mean the ones outside the engine shed?

If I remember right I actually used rust coloured pastels ground into powder with sandpaper.

These shots give a better view of the overall layout...

Where the fat controller sits...

Here are a few pics of my layout at last!

Finally decided on the trackplan after a lot of tweaking. It's not perfect but it's as good as I think it will get with the space I have available...

It's basically a double loop in an L shape. Here's one view, towards the main engine shed.

And if you pan to the right, you have the freight sidings.

A few more pics of the shed (based loosely on Connolly!)

Excuse the English Class 25, but I recently treated myself to that one. It's DCC sound fitted and a great little model.

A couple of "night shots!"

Hi Eamonn,

Yep that old attic can be a tight space but is also useful for the odd escape from herself. I find that when I do manage to get up there, undetected! for a few minutes - my name is quickly called by herself or the kids and you hear that sinking command - 'Are you in the attic again?'

Cheers all, Tommy

I feel your pain!

Or do you get that other one - "Are you coming down yet?" Right when you're under the baseboards trying to solder a joint!

Better give it a wash then !

Turn the iron on when it heats up wipe it on a damp sponge or cloth. Tin it by melting a little solder onto the tip and letting it flow over it. Leave it on until it stops giving off smoke then wipe the tip on the sponge again. That should do it....

Welcome, Sulzer!

As a fellow "attic-bound" modeller have to say it's great to see another member coping with the horrors of attic trusses! Can you post more pics to show us the full layout?

My Antex iron suddenly stopped producing enough heat to melt solder. I thought it might be the element but when I changed the bit the problem was solved. What happens to a bit that would reduce the heat it transmits?

Dirt, plain and simple.

The tip has to be spotlessly clean and well tinned to transmit maximum heat.