irishthump

Just curious, is she up for sale, Dave?

I thought the same thing. I started with a Hornby Mixed freight set, which ran lovely so I could'nt understand the complaints. I soon found out that the Select will run fine with it's own decoders that are installed in it's locos. The problems start when you run other makes of decoder on the Select. Likewise when I started running the locos from the set with my Prodigy Advance, crap running right from the start.

You will find that ther systems don't need to have their firmware updated because it works properly! That just proves what they say about DCC systems made by train set manufacturers.

When you say Decoder I assume you mean controller? Then yes, they both have more than enough.

The Gaugemaster Prodigy Express is available for £124 from Hattons. http://www.ehattons.com/stocklist/45/8/73/0/Gaugemaster_Controls_Any_or_multiple_scales_DCC_control_equipment_and_points_decoders/prodlist.aspx Also the NCE powercab can be got for £131. http://www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/pd-670066615.htm?categoryId=89 I went for Gaugemaster but bought the Advance 2, and I would highly recommend it if your budget can stretch the extra few quid. I was thinking about the Powercab myself but was turned off it by the fact you can only have 2 locos in the recall stack. A problem they were going to address but not sure if they have done it yet. Anthony is a Powercab user and he speaks highly of it, so maybe he can give more info. A word of warning about using the Selecty with sound decoders! I had three 141/181 chips which malfunctioned on me and I have an idea it was something to do with the Select. Search the Web for reports of Select problems, the list is frightening... Likewise with the Dynamis, the general opinion is to steer clear of "Train Set" DCC controllers and go for a dedicated DCC manufacturer's system.

Just a word of thanks to Model Shop Belfast for their help and service. Had some problems with my 141 sound decoders (which may well have been my own fault!) but got in touch with Gareth and he arranged to replace them for me. No hassle, no quibble even though I had bought them a few months ago. They arrived today and are working great! Thanks again Gareth.

Spot on, Eamonn. I have one of those Halfords irons as well, just be sure clean and tin the tip when you are finished. I've done a heap of soldering on my layout and I'm still on the tip I got with the iron.

Thanks man. I can live with the flickering on the tails lamps, but I'm considering fitting a couple of those to my 2 Hornby locos. They're both 0-6-0 and can struggle on some of my pointwork.

I would agree. I started back into the hobby with the Hornby Mixed freight set, and the track mat is great for getting a feel for track laying in general. The Hornby points can be a bit iffy but the rest of their track is fine for general use, when I started my attic layout I used Peco points and relegated the Hornby ones to the lesser used sidings. Like Mayner said be careful with tight curves when running long locos and coaches, the 2 outer curves on the track mat are fine, but longer stock will struggle with the tightest curve.

I am looking for Kadee no 308 is that right? Bloody typical! Could'nt find them for love nor money last time I looked...

Yeah, but I'm having trouble locating them, just wondering if there was an alternative.

Lads, I have been experimenting with various methods of coupling/uncoupling on my layout. I had been using using the Brian Kirby method, for any of you unfamiliar with it here's a video showing how it works. It's easy, cheap and works very well but it involves fitting magnets under the track at every place you may need to uncouple. I boight a few Kadee no. 20's off Ebay just to give them a try and I have to admit they seem great, if a little fiddly! Just looking for some advice from anyone who uses them; which magnets do you guys use for uncoupling? I have been experimenting with square magnets from cupboard latches which is what the Kirby ones use but they're a bit unreliable for the Kadees.

I don't think it makes a difference if you run it in on DCC. I think the reason manufacturers recommend you run in on DC before converting to DCC is so that you can be sure the loco is running properly before you chip it. If you install the chip and it does'nt work, at least you'll know it's not the loco!

On the subect of running in; I gave each of my 141s a run of about 45 mins in each direction (without any coaches or wagons) on DC before fitting them with DCC decoders. You can actually hear the diefference in the motor, it runs more smoothly and quietly.

I can't seem to get the hang of removing the bodies by squeezing the sides either. My own method (after removing front cab) is to turn the loco upside down, you can get at the tabs that hold the body on if you turn the bogies to the side. It's then a simple matter of easing the tabs away one by one and the body comes off easily. Another advantage of doing it this way is that you don't need to remove the side railings.

Have to agree Anto. A very light weathering would set this loco off perfectly. It just would'nt be right to have a spotless loco on a detailed layout like yours, it just seems out of place.

Your wallet will be opened as well!

Did you go with the Advance 2? I have one myself and it's a great piece of kit.

How about these... OK, I know one is a 181....

I decided to fit some taillights to my home-made Dutch generator van. Here's the result... I think I may have mounted them a little high, but anyway... The lights are DCC controlled and I attached pickups on all four wheels to reduce flickering. The pickups are from DCC supplies and are very easy to fit. Testing, testing.... I had some trouble with the Hornby decoders I used in this van and the brake vans I fitted lights to. If there was any sort of break in the current the functions would switch off and have to be turned back on again (this does'nt happen with my other decoders, if you activate the lights and take the loco off the rails when you replace it back on the track whatever function lights you had activated would come back on.) I expected some flickering since I use insulfrog points but the lights going out was just plain annoying! I got around the problem by wiring the lights to the motor output wires on the decoder.

Hello all! New site looks great.... Can I ask is the old site "due to be scrapped"?

Suits me, that's the livery I'm looking for!