irishthump

Anto, that's the business. Even the sound when it's turning is great!

The Purity Seal is good stuff, I do a lot of wargaming and have used it a lot. I use the matt version of the Windsor and Newton as a base coat for weathering powders and have found it dries very quickly, but the point about warming the model is a good one. If you leave the model in a cold shed or garage to dry then you will be a long time waiting, especially in the damp weather we've been having lately.

You know what, I think you're right. I was contemplating mixing different colour flock into it as well but the more I look at it the more I think it should be left a is!

I got the liner in Woodies but they only come in small round shaped pieces, they don't stock in on a roll. I did'nt need much so it did'nt matter but it would be expensive if you needed to cover a large area!

Where can I get one of those? The understanding wife that is!!! Seriously though, that's one impressive model. The detail is stunning.

Well the power supply for my Prodigy Advance decided to die last week so I find myself with plenty of time to actually work on some scenery! Here's where I'm at... The terrain is make from styrofoam sheet cut to shape with a hot wire cutter. I covered this is a mix of plaster with little PVA mixed in and this was then covered with brown paint for the grass area and grey for the rocky area to the right which lead up to a tunnel mouth. The grass section was covered with hanging basket liner stuck down with neat PVA. Some close ups... It's a wee bit overgrown looking, I may trim it back a bit at a later stage. I've also started weathering the track. I painted it with Rustoleum primer whish gives a nice rusted effect which looks a little bright in these photos. The rocky area needs a drybrushing with a lighter colur to bring out the detail and probably a few washes. This was my cunning plan for concealing that unsightly corner! Managed to weather some stock too, here's B165 which MK2s and Generator van.

I have'nt fitted decoders to the chassis' you've mentioned but I've hardwired decoders to a few locos. The main thing is that you make sure the model runs well on DC before fitting any decoder. If it runs well on DC then it should be fine for DCC regardless of the make of decoder. I would stear clear of Hornby decoders though!

Slightly off topic... I'm planning to repaint a rake of Hornby MK3s to go with the 071, I assume the Supertrain livery is the most appropriate?

Built in speaker? Great news!

It looks fantastic! How about decoder installation, is it the same drill as with the 141/181s or can it be done without removing the body?

Code 100.

I have about 50/50 Peco and Hornby on my layout and to be honest I don't see any real difference in running quality with regular staright and curved track. I actually find Hornby flextrack slightly easier to work with laying it on the baseboard. Points are another thing though. Contrary to what most people seem to recommend I only use insulfrog points on my layout and have a mix of both Hornby and Peco setrack points. The Peco certainly seem to be of better quality, are sturdier and give a more positive throw action. But I have'nt noticed any difference in running. One issue is that if, like me, you use older running stock you can have issues with older wheelsets bridging the insulated frog and causing a short. This only happens with the Peco insulfrog, as the plastic section is smaller.

Nice tidy work on the baseboards... Love the shed too; a good size space on ground level, I'm well jealous!

I agree Anthony, if you use a snips it's easy to pop the sleepers away from the track.

€135 is very cheap... The only thing with the Bachy Class 20 is that it does'nt come with directional lights, which I think is weird for a DCC fitted model.

I would say they are rerailers. Yeah it's easier to rail on the straight, but these may be supplied in sets that just contain a simple circle of track.

I buy cheap emery boards (the ones for doing your nails!) from the local Euro shop. The get about 30 in various sizes and grades for 2 Euro.

A different class, man!

Hi, Frank. Try this method: http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8094&st=15 I used it myself before I switched to Kadees. Takes a bit of work but it costs very little, and you can just add the modified couplers to locos and the end of a rake if you like.

Cheers, Anto. #146's it is!

As for me I'm returning to this hobby after 20+ years, but have been an avid sci-fi modeller and wargamer for most of those years. My first train set was a good old Lima freight set with a class 55! I got that when I was about 10 or 11 but I lost interest after a couple of years. My own kids love the fact that Dad "plays with trains" and they love running my layout but they soon get bored and have no interest in actually helping with any construction. Oh, but they do constantly ask "is it finished yet?" so I know they're interested to some extent...

Thanks for the feedback and info, lads. I think I'll try what you're suggesting, but at the moment I only have the NEM couplers. Would no. 5's be the best bet for mounting on the body?

Cheers, Anto. Any particular reason why that method is better? I know American HO modellers fit them pretty much exclusively to the wagon bodies....

I decided to switch to Kadees on my layout a while back but have only just got round to buying in the couplers and uncoupler magnets. I fitted the under-track magnets on the layout during the week and tested them with all of my locos, so far so good! As I have a lot of older wagons and coaches (Lima, Hornby and Triang) I have to convert these to take the couplers. Here are my first attempts.... My first victim was a Lima parcel van. My coaches have the same bogies so it was a good place to start. I cut away the old coupler with a razor saw and filed the area flat. I was very lucky with this one; I just glued in an NEM pocket from a Bachmann coupler and this just happens to sit at the right height. NEM pocket: I used epoxy to get a good joint, clamped it up and let it go off. After the glue set a quick check with my Kadee gauge... Looks OK to me! This Hornby tank wagon was a little more difficult. As you guys know the tension hook is attached with a small rivet. I drilled this out .... Then tried the NEM pocket but found it sat way too low. I simply measured how far it was protruding, removed the same amount from the fixing post on the bottom of the wagon then glued on the NEM pocket. Once again tested with the height gauge; looks fine. All the Kadees are no.20s and while I know it would probably have been better to fit couplers with gear boxes and springs these seem to handle the curves on my layout without any problems. Tightest curves on my layout are 2nd radius.

I think CIE would have incurred a financial penalty for cancelling the order as the engine equipment had already been built, so they decided to swallow it and store the engines for future use. I may be wrong, but were'nt they stored in Dalkey for a while?