irishthump

Hi, Frank. Try this method: http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8094&st=15 I used it myself before I switched to Kadees. Takes a bit of work but it costs very little, and you can just add the modified couplers to locos and the end of a rake if you like.

Cheers, Anto. #146's it is!

As for me I'm returning to this hobby after 20+ years, but have been an avid sci-fi modeller and wargamer for most of those years. My first train set was a good old Lima freight set with a class 55! I got that when I was about 10 or 11 but I lost interest after a couple of years. My own kids love the fact that Dad "plays with trains" and they love running my layout but they soon get bored and have no interest in actually helping with any construction. Oh, but they do constantly ask "is it finished yet?" so I know they're interested to some extent...

Thanks for the feedback and info, lads. I think I'll try what you're suggesting, but at the moment I only have the NEM couplers. Would no. 5's be the best bet for mounting on the body?

Cheers, Anto. Any particular reason why that method is better? I know American HO modellers fit them pretty much exclusively to the wagon bodies....

I decided to switch to Kadees on my layout a while back but have only just got round to buying in the couplers and uncoupler magnets. I fitted the under-track magnets on the layout during the week and tested them with all of my locos, so far so good! As I have a lot of older wagons and coaches (Lima, Hornby and Triang) I have to convert these to take the couplers. Here are my first attempts.... My first victim was a Lima parcel van. My coaches have the same bogies so it was a good place to start. I cut away the old coupler with a razor saw and filed the area flat. I was very lucky with this one; I just glued in an NEM pocket from a Bachmann coupler and this just happens to sit at the right height. NEM pocket: I used epoxy to get a good joint, clamped it up and let it go off. After the glue set a quick check with my Kadee gauge... Looks OK to me! This Hornby tank wagon was a little more difficult. As you guys know the tension hook is attached with a small rivet. I drilled this out .... Then tried the NEM pocket but found it sat way too low. I simply measured how far it was protruding, removed the same amount from the fixing post on the bottom of the wagon then glued on the NEM pocket. Once again tested with the height gauge; looks fine. All the Kadees are no.20s and while I know it would probably have been better to fit couplers with gear boxes and springs these seem to handle the curves on my layout without any problems. Tightest curves on my layout are 2nd radius.

I think CIE would have incurred a financial penalty for cancelling the order as the engine equipment had already been built, so they decided to swallow it and store the engines for future use. I may be wrong, but were'nt they stored in Dalkey for a while?

Lads, I have the same compressor in the link Richie posted, and I also have the gravity-fed airbrush although I bought them seperately. I find both of them to be fine and I would highly recommend them. Like Anto said, it's about technique and an expensive airbrush won't help with that. There's nothing wrong with going the inexpensive route especially when starting out, then by all means upgrade if you feel the need.

Stunning as always, Anto. Have to say your work never fails to impress... Can I ask, are the lights DCC controlled or just powered direct from the track?

I have seen them in Mark's Models for 135 euro. My advice is to give Dave Bracken a PM. (WRENNEIRE is his username here). He'll look after you...

Oh, I know. I was just saying the pancaske motors did perform well.

True. I have a couple of old Limas that I converted to DCC, they run fine but as you say the wheels are muck! I'm considering switching out the wheelsets whenever I get around to it. And as Warbonnet says, don't mention those traction tyres! Having said that the old Lima pancake motors will pull anything, noisey as hell though.

Layout looks great, Anto! The Railroad range are pretty tempting, you can get either one of those locos for under €60. From what I understand they are Lima toolings with newer motor bogies. How are they as regards powerpickup? Have Hornby fitted them with more pickups?

Thanks for all you help and patience with this guys. Not being a prototypical modeller at all, I don't think I gave enough realistic thought to the layout. I just wanted to able to run trains in a continuous loop while shunting in the freight yard! @Mayner It's a not a terminus and I intend to use the siding adjacent to the up platform for passenger services as well, maybe a push-pull or DMU. Is it ok to use 2 aspect signals for the up and down lines? I would imagine I would be positioning them at the end of each platform.

I actually have that book, think it's time to read it again! Thanks for the advise Weshty, but I already picked up some 2 aspect signals... SORRY!

To hell with a rolling road! Use the need for a test track as an excuse to build a seperate track!

I would agree, a harness would get in the way with the limited space inside the narrow body. Here's a TCS 21 pin without a harness, should do the job. http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=4721 I recently picked up another 141 and decided to just put a non-sound decoder in it. (My other 3 141s are all DCC sound chipped.) I ended up using a Hornby Sapphire that I had lying around, works fine.More expensive than the Bachmann, but I think it has a few extra programming features.

Here's the basic layout from my control panel to give you an idea. I plan to put station platforms on the double main line somewhere between the two crossovers. The siding directly above the mainline will also be served by one of the platforms.

Folks, Now that I'm installing my point motors I wanted to add some basic signalling to the layout. The SEEP point motors have the built in polarity switch so I added the wiring to allow LEDs to be ran from them. Can you guys give me any advice on how the signalling should operate? ie placement and type of signals around mainline crossovers and sidings etc... It does'nt have to be strictly prototypical at all. I think I will be pretty much limited to 2 aspect signals, and wondering how to best incorporate them.

Welcome man, Anto is a Powercab user and from what he has said there should be more than enough power for running those 4 trains at once. I'm sure he'll chime in at some stage with more info for you. I only got back into the hobby myself after 20+ years, and decided very early on to go the DCC route. I myself went for the Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance 2 and it more than meets my requirements. But shop around and get as much advice as you can before deciding on a system. There are a couple of other threads about this subject in the Q+A section, have a read!

Yep, absolutely stunning stuff...

Got started on the wiring... Managed to get 3 points wired up and working before the heat in the attic overcame me! Using mainly SEEP motors but because a couple of the points are right above baseboard supports I ended up using Hornby surface mounted motors, but they seem to be working fine.

SEEP point motors through a CDU.

Made a start on the control panel today; used car lining tape to make the track diagram then drilled holes and attached the point switches. Progress so far... I also placed a switch next to my programming track so I can drive locos onto the track normally. A lot of soldering to be done tomorrow!!!

Here, here!!!