irishthump

Just came across this one today, apologies if it's already been posted.

Now that you mention it....

More work on my MK3's... 4 out 5 of my these coaches were missing their buffers. I was finding them hard to find on Ebay (as well as being bloody expensive!) so a solution had to be found. A quick search produced a box of these... I took a file to the edges to give them the correct oval shape, then a coat of black primer... Then fix them in place with a dab of superglue... Here's one next to the only MK3 that had it's original buffers. Pretty hard to spot the difference even if I do say so myself... So then I could finally move on to the weathering. Here's a few shots of them on the layout...

Just watched the video, sounds absolutely stunning and all the functions operating!

Personally I would build a lift-out curved section for that corner so as to squeeze every last inch out of it! At 9'x8' you will have a fair sized running loop.

Well I guess that changes my layout to a "what if"!

Sorry to hijack... For how long after the introduction of the supertrain livery did you still have the black and tan livery on locos? And when did the first Supertrain MK3's appear?

I knew I had seen a trap door section somewhere on this forum! I would have to agree with Anto about keeping to a simple 2 track mainline.

That sounds great, Glenderg. That's basically the essence of what I was trying describe but you fleshed it out a lot better!

Ah, sorry! I assumed the door would be in the middle of the wall, my mistake! It's still not as hard as you might think to build a removable section in the corner.

Have agree with Robert on this one, that second plan looks very "train-set!" My priority would be to make the double loop as long as possible. So providing the room is just for your layout, I would build the loop around the outside of walls. If you did this you could make each basboard up to 2 feet wide if you wanted to and still have a large operating well in the middle. You can build in a lift-up or removable section for the door to open, or alter the door to open outwards.If you can get away with it you could even remove the door altogether! (don't laugh)

Just normal mounting card from my local Art and Hobby shop, the kind with the smooth, hot pressed finish. Not sure which thickness. I just got as near as I could to the thickness of the sleepers, layed one layer level with the sleepers between the track then layed the second layer right up against the track edge.

Yeah its card, and to give it some texture I mixed plaster with grey emulsion from a woodies tester pot.

A few shots of some motive power loitering around the engine shed...

Well that loco is frigged and no mistake! Looking at the slow-mo, it seems that the cable just gave way...

Rubbish?!! Have you looked at your own photos?!! Seriously, it looks great. It's complete and sets a wonderful little scene, more pics I say!

Stunning work, Anto. Did you perform the same surgery as on the 141's for fitting the Kadees?

Ha! I wish! My problem is when I finally do get to go near my layout I end up "watching trains go by"!

No not Scalescenes, that pattern is a free download from here http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Scenery/Buildings.htm. It looks quite good when weathered. As for my "speed", this is stuff I've been doing over the last few weeks that I just have'nt had the time to post. So don't expect another update for another month!

I also built a retaining wall for the depot section of the layout. A close up view...

Ah, so I was'nt going colour blind! Thanks for the info, David.

On the subject of painting the gangways, looking at photos of the prototype the colour seems to vary. I don't kniow whether to use the same orange as on the body or to use a luminous orange. Anybody know what colour was actually used?

Woodland Scenics Medium Grey. It's a little light in colour but it was the only one I could get enough of! The wash tones it down nicely though.

Yes normal plaster, the horrible pink coloured kind! I'm think of using myself for a hard standing, a great tip I learned was to add in some PVA when mixing the plaster which gives it flexability and stops it cracking.

Added some more detailing and toned down the ballast with a dark wash applied with an airbrush.