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irishthump

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Everything posted by irishthump

  1. irishthump
    Yeah I was planning to make it a container yard, so that's great news about the reach stacker!
  2. irishthump
    It actually does not matter, the resistor will break the circuit regardless of which side it's wired.
  3. irishthump
    No, it does'nt matter as long as it is present in the circuit.
  4. irishthump
    Lovely, lovely work, Rangermouse. As for a baby GM being too dirty, not a chance!
  5. irishthump
    It does'nt matter whether you attach the resistor to the positive or negative, I think it's just ggod practice to pick one side and stick with it when wiring up. You'll definatley have to disconnect the red leds and make sure there working independently of the loco.
  6. irishthump
    Yeah, looking forward to getting my Supertrain 071 too!
  7. irishthump
    Spent a some time (actually, a LOT of time!) wiring the bus for the leds. Here's a couple of "night shots"...
  8. irishthump
    Thank you, sir!
  9. irishthump
    Great news Dave! Silly question warning: What exactly is the difference between CIE original and CIE supertrain liveries?
  10. irishthump
    Over the last few days I got the the rest of the freight yard ballasted. After the glue dried I toned it down with a thin black wash applied with an airbrush. As you can see in the pics I scratchbuilt a couple of sets of floodlights, these have leds fitted but I have'nt got round to adding a power bus yet. Here's a better pic of them... I also fitted leds to the sight office in the backround. More scratchbuilding; a couple of simple ground levers for the points in the freight yard. Another view... All that's needed now is some grass/weeds to finish it off.
  11. irishthump
    Wow! That backdrop makes such a difference...
  12. irishthump
    I have 3 of the 141/181 sound chips from the Model Shop Belfast and they are top notch. They also sell a speaker which can be used without having to do any major surgery to the inside of the loco. You just need to solder the two speaker wires to the contacts on the circuit board in the loco and plug in the chip.
  13. irishthump
    Looking great! Do I see the downloadable brickpaper from Newrailwaymodellers? Stunning weathering from Anto, as usual. Did he respray 039? The livery looks better than on the Silverfox website. (I'm assuming it's a Silverfox here.)
  14. irishthump
    Mainly mid to late 70's. I'm running a lot of Black and Tan and Supertrain liveried stock. But to be honest you cound find anything running on it, so I'm not too hung up on it! And anyway, I don't know of any Irish stations that resemble mine!
  15. irishthump
    You can do the same job with solder but it needs a fair bit of cleaning up afterwards.
  16. irishthump
    You could also cut a tiny offcut of rail if you have any spare and slide it in at the join to close it up. Fiddly job, but do-able.
  17. irishthump
    To be honest I have seen worse on exhibition layouts! I would be more worried about the height difference at the join in that last pic. You might try bending the ends of the flexitrack down a little then re-joining them, or maybe squeeze the fishplates with a pliers they look a little distorted.
  18. irishthump
    Welcome to the site, Frank. Love the video and the variety of stock on your layout...
  19. irishthump
    Like Boskonay said you need to put insulating joiners where the points meet on the crossing, that will stop the short occurring. As for the gaps in the track, I would'nt worry about them damaging wheels it's only an issue if stock is derailing. It's a good idea to leave a small gap at a join to allow for expansion of the track in hot weather. I have also read comments on forums where modellers cut gaps in the track to simulate the "click-clack" of real rolling stock travelling over joints in the track. Can you post a pic of the gaps that you're worried about?
  20. irishthump
    Nice job, lovely to see one painted and up and running... Certainly looks the part in Supertrain!
  21. irishthump
    Another point is that if everything including points is controlled from your tablet, phone or indeed your DCC throttle, when you have a short or other problem the entire layout shuts down. Even though I use DCC I still control all my points from a seperate analogue panel.
  22. irishthump
    Does'nt support consists?!!! That's terrible for the price, tbh it sems a bit gimmicky to me.
  23. irishthump
    The Z21 looks very impressive but it's a big outlay at £340! You can get the Powercab for just over a 3rd of the price and it will do everything you would really need. I use a Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance 2 and I could'nt recommend it highly enough, but it's a little more expensive than the Powercab at around £200. One piece of advice I would give you is to download the manuals for any system you may be considering.
  24. irishthump
    The walls are 6mm mdf covered with brick paper that I downloaded for free from newrailwaymodellers.com, it looks a lot better when weathered as you can see. The brick courses on top are scored in 3mm foamboard painted grey with Halfords primer.
  25. irishthump
    5mm foamboard from my local art shop, the kind with smooth pressed surface on each side.
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