irishthump

I read on another forum that the loco and controller have to be bought separately, not sure if there's a discount for buying the magazine. I picked up a few of these myself, you can't go wrong for a fiver!

Another popular method is mixing powdered wood glue (Cascamite is the main brand available here) and spraying it with wet water.

The micro Switch on the Seep motors is simply a brass collar that moves between 2 contacts. It can become dirty or just wear out over time but once you have one installed they are easily replaced if one goes on the blink, they are cheap enough or like you said you could add an auxiliary switch. But I've had no problems on my layout with them and the motors themselves are as good as any other.

The Seep point motors are yer only man! As Dave said the ones with the built-in polarity switch can be used to switch frog polarity or for controlling signals.

In answer to the OP, yes 17's are a bit short unless you have large radius curves and points. I find the biggest problem with Kadees and Irish/UK stock is avoiding buffer lock. With US outline there are no buffers so the coupling distance can be very small and the Kadees are free to pivot without anything getting in their way. As soon as you add in buffers you have to be sure leave enough distance to stop the buffers from catching in each other. So to be honest Kadees are not the best option for really close coupling. Even with sprung buffers on both items of stock it can still go wrong on sharp curves. Have a look at this site - http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?autocom=custom&page=Kadee-Resources It gives an excellent rule of thumb when fitting Kadees which is to have the face of the knuckle about level with the face of the buffers.

I don't know about that! Uneven track and sharp curves will cause just as much trouble with tension locks, especially if you're mixing Bachmann/Hornby/Lima etc. with each other.

Have to agree. Look at this for just a few extra quid - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-Airbrush-Kit-Includes-Compressor-Lots-of-Accessories-WOW-/190666490331?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item2c649bc1db You get 2 double action airbrushes (not high quality but certainly good enough to be getting on with) and the compressor has a moisture trap fitted.

Lads, Came across this on Capel Street this morning....

But the gobs*ites aren't clear about that on the Royal Mail website. The way they word it you can't send any paint through the postal system at all....

That is a stunning piece of work!

Yes, the Model Shop's decoder is a separate product.

Thanks for the comments, lads! Glad you enjoyed the video....

Lads, Received my 071 sound decoder from Gareth in Model Shop Belfast during the week and thought I'd post a little video of it in action. I know DCC sound isn't everyone's cup of tea but I think the effect is great even with the pre-installed speaker. Enjoy, and please excuse the poor video quality! [video=youtube_share;oDiEKnC-Q-I]

While I have heard no complaints about the Powercab and it seems to be a universally popular system I would agree with David when he recommends the Prodigy. It has more power than the Powercab (3.5 amps) which should be more than enough for most layouts and programming locos' cv's and setting up consists is simple.

Where u based?

Thanks Barl. The reason I was asking is that I noticed you used insulfrog points like myself. I've got a bit of flack over it from some purists who recommended live frogs but I did'nt want the hassle of wiring polarity switches. Personally, I have no problems with them once the track is cleaned regularly.

I converted a few of the older Hornby mk3's myself a while back. The difference in length was'nt an issue to me and I think they look fine, but judge for yourself here; http://www.irishrailwaymodelling.com/showthread.php/77-Graham-s-Workbench/page2 I'll warn you though, they are a bit of a pain to repaint because of how the glazing is done!

Thanks for the info! I assume she's back in traffic now?

How recent are these little "mishaps"?

Was I imagining things or did I see Joe Duffy in the Stillorgan Park hotel a couple of weeks back.

Great work and a lovely layout. Is the layout DCC controlled?

Absolutely not. DCC sound is not for everybody, it's just another facet of the hobby that you're either into or you're not. Obviously the sound can never match that of the real thing and for some that's a deal-breaker but I can understand that. It's the same as some modellers deciding to go with 21mm gauge track as opposed to 00 gauge just to go that extra mile in favour of realism. I myself have a half-and-half mix of sound and non-sound locos. I love the "play" factor of driving the sound equipped locos but an just as happy letting them run (almost) silently around the layout as well. And yes the novelty can wear off after a few hours but who ever gets the chance to run their locos for more than a few hours?!!!

Looks the business! All he needs now is some stock to fill them...

Sorry to put a damper on things but I got one of those soldering irons and I would recommend you to stay clear! The tips are of poor quality and are of the screw-in type so they are difficult to replace. On the plus side you get a set of tips for engraving wood which you might find useful. The stand works well though!

Yes, removing the back can alter the sound, that's why most guitar amps have an opening at the back. But I noticed no difference when testing the speaker with and without the back. In fact I was careful to place the speaker face up under the roof grill with the metal chassis of the loco forming a box around the back of the speaker which DID improve the sound.