irishthump

I use Windsor and Newton acrylic artist's varnish, it comes in a spray can but I apply it with an airbrush. I just spray some into a small paint jar and let it sit for a while to allow the aerosol gases to escape then pour it straight into the airbrush.

Depends on which loco the chip is for. The 201 has around 18 functions, so with the Select you would be missing out on a lot of the sound effects. If I remember right the main headlight is on F11 so straight away you would not be able to turn it on. For sound equipped locos you really need a more sophisticated controller than the Select. I had one myself at first but upgraded right after I started buying sound equipped locos.

Good call. These can get very mucky with general dirt from the track as well lubricant from the bogies.

You could always try the IE approach; and never, EVER wash them!

Brings back a few memories alright!

Bloody hell, Anto..... So realistic!

I've already checked that the loco was picking up from all 8 wheels. In fact, when I got the loco 2nd hand there seemed to be a problem with the circuit board where both axles at one end of the loco were not picking up power. I re-soldered the connections to the PCB so I know everything is ok there. I also make sure the pickups are properly adjusted every time the loco is cleaned. I'm pretty sure the loco was ran on a DC layout so maybe that's the reason for the condition of the wheelsets.

The problem isn't so much having to clean the wheels it's the how frequently I have to clean them! Like I said this is the only loco that gives this sort of trouble. After less than an hour of running it's starts to run erratically and needs cleaning again. I have a Heljan class 27 which gave the same problem and I noticed it had the same type of brass wheels, I changed them for a new nickel set and the problems stopped.

Haha! Those made me laugh....

I only use IPA and cotton buds to clean my loco wheels with, as you say, a fibreglass pen for stubborn dirt. Guess I'll need to try and give them a good polish. I don't think the track is much of an issue, I clean it very regularly and none of my other locos collect much dirt even after weeks of running.

Lads, I bought a secondhand 141 from Ebay a while back which has been suffering from the intermittent running. The wheels seem to need cleaning very often and I compared the wheels to those on my other 141s and they seem to be brass rather than nickel steel. Maybe the previous owner switched them? Anyway, where would I get spare wheelsets? Are they standard sized Bachmann wheels? Should I contact Bachmann's spares dept?

Sorry for your loss, HF.

Lovely project David, the scenic work is particularly fine. I'm partial to American HO myself, although I'm not a steam afficianado! Could you give some details on how you tweaked the decoder in the Shay? I have a couple of Bachmann locos with factory fitted sound which needed a bit of playing around with to get good slow running.

Lovely job, Rebelred. Looking at your work there is no way you could be called a "novice"!

So are those times set for the time being? Or are they likely to be changed at any time?

Another great vid... I particularly liked the SuperTrain liveried ladybird at the start!

Many thanks GM! The times listed for the Ballina-North Wall trains; are these the times for their departure from Ballina or arrival at North Wall?

I'd love to get some info on this myself! Any spotting gurus care to share their knowledge?

Cracking videos, GM!

Wonderful work, Patrick! The backdrop is the icing on the cake! It adds a terrific sense of depth, finishes the scene off beautifully.

Whoops! Better come clean before a plagiarism suit gets filed against me! Yes, most of the techniques are from Tim Shackelton's book "Weathering Locomotives" which I would recommend to anyone. Also, credit to Georgeconna for his "wash on, wash off" technique for the loco's sides!

Very simple techniques really.... The only paints I used for weathering are Humbrol Enamels. The various shades are all a mixture of just two colours, Matt Black 33 and Matt leather 62. First I airbrush a layer of 50:50 black and leather over the whole loco, I let this dry a little then take most of it off again with cotton buds soaked in thinners (I use white spirit) working in downward strokes to mimic streaking on the loco sides and making sure to leave paint in the recesses. The roof gets a coat of the same mix, as well as the bogies. Neat black is used for exhaust stains as well as around the fuel tank and wheel bearings. Light patches of neat matt leather are airbrushed onto parts of the bogies to mimic brake dust and I also dust a very light coat over the whole loco which helps tie all the colours together. I find very light application of paint at high pressure gives a lovely, dusty finish. The exhaust on 210 was done with Humbrol matt rust 113, silver 11 and matt black 33 and touched up with some rust coloured weathering powders. Lastly the buffers faces are touched with some Metalcote Gunmetal. I use a an old tin that has almost dried out, it gives a great representation of the thick grease used on the buffers!

No it's just a standard MK1, but I do have a MK1 brake converted to a steam genny van, I'll take a pic of it when I get the chance.

Thanks for all the comments, lads! 210 got some of the same treatment.....

Looking great Sean, nice neat job on the ballasting! You're really making some progress with your layout.