irishthump

Here it is - http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/77-Graham-s-Workbench/page10

Not at all. If you look at my workbench thread you can see how installed a decoder and speaker in one of my 141's. The back of the speaker can be removed which allows you to fit it under the body without having to do any drastic surgery!

Looks superb!

Dave, you notice any issues with the Hattons decoders when trying to set start and top voltage CV's? I'm having some trouble getting them to run how I want them....

I have several of MSB's sound decoders, 141's, 071's and 201's. As Boskonay said the quality of the sound files are excellent. I also have a 141 decoder that I had made up by Olivia's Trains in the UK, it's a Loksound decoder like the Murphy Models 071 and 201 (the MSB decoders are Zimo). Both types have excellent motor control but the Loksounds have a "manual notching" feature which allows you to increase the revs of the engine sound independently of the locos speed. It's great for simulating getting a heavy train started but not essential!

I don't think that switch is suitable as it sounds like it uses a single pole/single throw switch which uses a common return. You need to wire it with a double pole/double throw switch to keep the two outputs seperate. It's also a good idea to have a section of track between the main line and programming track which is dead when the programming track is activated. Here is a link to a great site for all things DCC - http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC.html#Programming

Modern locos like the Murphy's 141 and 071 will draw around .5 Amps when running. Now correct me if I'm wrong but I think the Powercab provides 3 Amps of power so you should be able to run 6 locos at once. As Broith said the size of the layout has little bearing on that as long as you use suitable sized wire for the DCC bus.

Try a 50:50 mix of Humbrol matt black and matt leather over the bogies and underframe of the loco. When that's dry follw it with some very light touches of matt leather over the bogies. I use the same colours on my own stuff - http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/77-Graham-s-Workbench/page11

Sean they look great! It's very easy to over do it with an airbrush but you've got in just about right. What paint did you use by the way? Acrylic or enamels?

A few manufacturers say you can run a DC loco with their controllers but it's really not recommended!

Don't get me started! DCC is the ONLY way to run model trains as far as I'm concerned..... I bit extreme maybe but have said it a thousand times, if it had'nt been for DCC I would never have returned to the hobby. Anyway, yes it's easy to change a layout from DC to DCC at a later date, in the wiring is less complicated. DCC just requires that there is power to ALL parts of the layout at all times, there is no need for isolating sections or sidings. Murphy's locos are easy to fit with DCC as they all have sockets for a decoder. Suitable decoders can be got for around the €20 mark and you can get small discounts from suppliers if you but them in bulk. As for controllers the Hornby Select is ok to start with and will run trains fine but it is very limited in its functions and programming, I would advise that you buy a good controller from the start. As NIR said Lenz are excellent but also very expensive. The NCE Powercab can be got for just under €150 online and will do pretty much all you will ever need.

Lads, I came across this on RMWEB and thought it might be useful for anyone who owns some of Model Shop Belfast's sound decoders. On the 141 sound chips I always found that some of the volume levels were a little unbalanced; the horn sound was too quiet, the flange squeal way too loud in relation to the prime mover. These decoders allow you to change the volume of any of the function triggered sounds seperately by altering the CV relevant to each function key. Each CV can be given a value of 0-255. F0 CV571 F1 CV514 F2 CV517 F3 CV520 F4 CV523 F5 CV526 F6 CV529 F7 CV532 F8 CV535 F9 CV538 F10 CV541 F11 CV544 F12 CV547 F13 CV550 F14 CV553 F15 CV556 F16 CV559 F17 CV562 F18 CV565 F19 CV568 F20 CV674 F21 CV677 F22 CV680 F23 CV683 F24 CV686 F25 CV689 F26 CV692 F27 CV695 F28 CV698 Hope it's of some use, folks!

Yeah, it worked far better than I imagined! Might be useful for anyone re-motoring an old chassis for a Silverfox kit. I imagine it would work for the Lima pancake motor as well.

Cheers, man!

Absolutely stunning weathering job! What scale is it?

Some UK outline for a change: I picked up an old Hornby HST from Ebay a while back, it's in good condition overall but the ringfield motor was little knackered! A good service didn't improve matters much and getting a replacement was proving difficult as well as potentially expensive, then I came across this low cost alternative which uses a motor from an old CD drive. Here's the link... http://web.onetel.net.uk/~johndent/ringfield.html I installed the motor as described except that I had removed the old magnet which left a lot more space around the motor, which I simply filled with blobs of hot glue. Here's a pic: I wired in a bog standard Hornby decoder and was amazed at how well it runs. Here's short video of it in action, sorry about the low quality as I took it on my phone.... I considerably increased the weight in the loco and as you can see it pulls a 5 car rake as well as a driving trailer with no problem at all.

I feel your pain..... Here in work they look at you like you have 10 heads when you tell them you didn't see "The Match" last night!

Regardless of the size of the stanchions, it certainly looks the part after a coat of primer...

I use Windsor and Newton acrylic artist's varnish, it comes in a spray can but I apply it with an airbrush. I just spray some into a small paint jar and let it sit for a while to allow the aerosol gases to escape then pour it straight into the airbrush.

Depends on which loco the chip is for. The 201 has around 18 functions, so with the Select you would be missing out on a lot of the sound effects. If I remember right the main headlight is on F11 so straight away you would not be able to turn it on. For sound equipped locos you really need a more sophisticated controller than the Select. I had one myself at first but upgraded right after I started buying sound equipped locos.

Good call. These can get very mucky with general dirt from the track as well lubricant from the bogies.

You could always try the IE approach; and never, EVER wash them!

Brings back a few memories alright!

Bloody hell, Anto..... So realistic!

I've already checked that the loco was picking up from all 8 wheels. In fact, when I got the loco 2nd hand there seemed to be a problem with the circuit board where both axles at one end of the loco were not picking up power. I re-soldered the connections to the PCB so I know everything is ok there. I also make sure the pickups are properly adjusted every time the loco is cleaned. I'm pretty sure the loco was ran on a DC layout so maybe that's the reason for the condition of the wheelsets.