irishthump

Noel, you could also try remapping the notching feature to lower function buttons. I understand it's a bit involved with Loksound decoder, but it might be worth a try.

That's why I had mine assigned to "one push" function keys, the notching is much easier to control. I think it stems from the fact that most function keys on DCC controllers are set to "latching", that is once you press them they stay on until pressed again. This is actually a setting on the controller and not the decoder. Some controllers allow you to change the latching settings for function keys, the Bachmann Dynamis is one that I know of.

When using manual notching on the Loksound you have to press the necessary function key once to notch up, then press it AGAIN otherwise the engine will continue to notch up. The same applies to notching down. Now this can be awkward on the Loksound as they assign notching to high numbered function keys. I don't know what controller you are using but on my Gaugemaster Prodigy to access functions above 12 for example I have to press SHIFT+F1+F2 and then do the same to deactivate the notching. That's why when I bought my Loksound chip from Olivia's Trains in the UK I asked them to reassign the manual notching to F4 and F5.

It allows you to hange the engine revs independently of the loco's speed. You can rev the engine right up to simulate trying to get a heavy train started or you can lower the revs to simulate coasting.

I have both Loksound and Zimo decoders. I think the sound files on the Zimo chips are better quality recordings, also they are taken from actual Irish locos while the Loksound equivalents use genric engine sounds from US locos that use the same prime mover as Irish locos. Having said that I prefer the Loksound decoders. Zimo's motor control is second to none but Loksounds are much faster to respond to throttle changes and they have a manual notching feature.

You'll have to make them yourself using copper or brass strip. Here's a video showing how to fit extra pickups to another a class 55; the basic design is pretty much the same for all Lima models. [video=youtube;-8UQ6wiowoI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8UQ6wiowoI

Like Riversuir said servicing the motor would be the first think I would look at, then strip down the motor bogie and give it a clean and lubricate it. Also check the existing wire connections and resolder them if necessary. It's possible to add extra pickups which would be a good idea if you're planning to convert it to DCC. It's quite possible to get Lima motors to run well, but the performance will be nothing like a Bachmann or Athearn.

Careful, not all makes of decoder use the same size 9 pin plug. I have decoders from Gaugemaster, DCC concepts, Digitrax and Lenz and they all use different size plugs!

Can't see how that's right. You can only collect your parcel with a code that is sent to your mobile phone by Parcel Motel.

By the thread I mean not the flange but the part of the wheel that actuallt touches the rail. If these are are to wide (or thick if you like) they will easily cause a short. Like I said the old Lima's are notorious for this....

The short is usually caused by the tread of the wheel bridging the gap between the rails at the frog of the point on insulated points. Are you using live or insulated frog points? Also, are the coaches causing this problem older models? The wheels on Lima and older Hornby MK3's have a very wide thread which bridges the gap easily. The best option is to change the wheelsets, easy enough with Hornby but the Lima wheels have a shorter axle. Replacements can be found but they're not cheap.

Now now, Glenderg. You're being a bit economical with the truth there.... With DCC you can make 2 locos go in different directions on the same length of track. Try doing that with DC. Oh, it's possible but not without a load of switches, isolating sections and complicated wiring. To be honest I'm amazed at the reluctance of DC users to even consider DCC. I was at one exhibition a couple of years ago and I asked the operator of a particularly nice layout if it was DC or DCC. He snorted this reply; "Oh no it's DC, sure why would I want to complicate things?" Now I dread to think what the mess of wiring under the layout looked like! I then tried to explain the advantages of digital control to him, and he replied that he could do anything that DCC could do with his layout. So I used the example above of 2 engines crawling towards each other on the same length of track and he did'nt believe you could do that with DCC.... My point being that a lot of long standing DC users seem reluctant to even learn about DCC, with the result they don't know what they're missing....

Yeah. You'll get an email and a text from them telling you the parcel has arrived. It costs €3.95 per parcel and still often works out cheaper since many sellers offer free UK shipping.

Did some minor detailing on a couple of covered wagons that I picked up on Ebay. I added some handrails on the doors and nose grabrails and added DCC controlled lights. I wanted to install a headlight in the front door and a working mars light in the upper headlight. Space can be a bit limited so I used micro leds from Wickness models that I fixed to the back of the headlight lenses. I then sealed the back with black mastic tape which holds everything nicely in place and stops any light from bleeding into the cab. I used Lenz Standard decoders which give flawless running even with the bog-standard Blue Box motors. The motors were given a good clean and the sintered metal wheels were replaced with nickel silver replacements. The only glitch was that initially I wired the headlight to the white decoder wire (F0 forward) and the mars light to the green wire (F1). Unfortunately only the white and yellow outputs can be programmed to work like a mars light. So I was forced to rewire the mars light to the yellow function wire and re-map it to work on F1. Here's a short video of them working....

I replaced the Ringfield motor in a Hornby HST with one form a CD drive a while back. Like Dhu Varren said the result is far better. Here's a link to my workbench thread that shows it running - http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/77-Graham-s-Workbench/page12 Scroll to the bottom of the page. As Dhu described the gear off the old motor shaft is to big so I cemented a small piece of brass tube over the shaft for a tight fit.

Never used Bachmann but I have to agree on the Lenz decoders. I just installed Lenz chips in a couple of old Athearn locos and they are running sweet as a nut, even with the crappy old Athearn motor!

Sorry Dhu Varren, we must have been typing at the same time!

The amount of pins on the decoder is mainly to do with the amount of functions. 8 pin has a maximum of 3 functions which can be used without any modifications. The word "function" does not cover motor control, it's normally lights, sound or even smoke generators or couplers. Many 8 pin decoders will have a seperate purple wire which can be connected to power an extra function but this has to be wired in seperate from the decoder socket. Having said that, Murphy's 141's have a 21 pin socket but actually don't require it. The loco only uses 2 functions (forward and backward lights) so an 8 pin decoder can be used with a 21-8 pin adaptor. To be honest though, there's no benefit as the cost of the decoder plus adaptor is close enough to the cost of a 21 pin decoder! You might even run into problems squeezing the decoder+adaptor+wires under the body of a 141.... The 071's and 201's actually need a 21 pin chip that supports 6 functions to allow you use all the lighting features on the loco. You can use a cheaper decoder (which usually have 4 functions) but the cab lights won't work.

Noel, DO I understand that the WiThrottle app will interface with any system that's compatible with JMRI? I use a Gaugemaster/MRC Prodigy Advance 2 and MRC have just opened up their software to be JMRI compatible.

I think you hit the nail on the head there, Dave. I think it has to do with the older demographic of the US market. You've got a lot of old timers (no offence intended there!) who don't want to give up the feel of a throttle in their hand. Mention computer control and it's like a red rag to a bull!

Great shots of 145 and 177 in Black and Tan.

Sorry! Boskonay's right. The value should be 0-31 not 0-255..... You also have to set CV 31 to 16 and CV 32 to 0 before changing those function output CV's.

Noel, The various sound functions can all be remapped to different keys. I have had it done by the suppliers before myself, but I'm not 100% sure of the process. The Loksound V4 manual explains it but it takes a while to get your head around. The full V4 manual is here - http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/instruction-manuals/digital-decoders/ Any of the light functions can adjusted, as far as I remember the cab lights are on functions outputs 5 and 6. According to the Loksound manual the brightness on these outputs is controlled by CV's 294 and 302. You can just experiment with values of between 0-255 until you get the level you like. Hope that helps!

Yep, they're a b**ger and no mistake! Personally I leave the railings on and just release the tabs from underneath as aclass07 said.

Absolutely top notch lads!