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irishthump

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Everything posted by irishthump

  1. irishthump
    Here ya go; spare bogies frames... http://www.ebay.ie/itm/00-Gauge-Heljan-Class-26-27-33-Bo-Bo-Diesel-Bogie-Side-frames-x-4-Unused-VGC-/261710986196?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item3cef30bbd4
  2. irishthump
    Well that changes things..... I would gut it and use the motor and bogies for a silverfox C class!
  3. irishthump
    To be honest I would make do with repainting it into CIE colours, maybe redoing the front windows! But why would you bother? It's a nice loco as is.
  4. irishthump
    I'm not a rivet counter either, I'm just trying to convince you NOT to cut this loco up! Seriously, I'd run it as-is with some BR coaches. By the way, I looked at the pics on Ebay and it definatley has the older brass wheels. Take my advice and switch them for the newer nickel steel sets. I got mine from Howes models.
  5. irishthump
    Don't really know about converting it to look like an A class, but I would say it would be a lot of work! I don't think the overall dimensions are correct, plus it's a Bo-Bo. The Heljans are lovely runners on DC and DCC. By the way, if the model has the older brass wheels replace them, they get dirty very quickly and will break your heart on DCC! Fitting them with sound involves a little work though, here's a good video.... Personally, I would leave it as is and install a Class 33 sound chip! They're a lovely model and it would be a shame to hack it up.
  6. irishthump
    To be honest I would expect the Elite to work with any decoder as Hornby state that it's NMRA compliant. If that's not the case then I would steer clear of it.
  7. irishthump
    Well the Select is not NMRA compliant, so it has issues with several brands of decoders; Bachmann and TCS were the ones which caused the most hassle. The problem is with the Select itself, not with the decoders.
  8. irishthump
    As far as I know there is no DCC sound chip available for the A class yet, although Mr Soundguy is supposed to be working on one. Although I think Enniscorthyman of this parish got a hold of a protoype.... http://s370.photobucket.com/user/eamonnredmond/media/20141021_125849_zpshdi0patz.mp4.html
  9. irishthump
    Nice work... Aside from how well it runs, it's a lovely paint job!
  10. irishthump
    Nice work! I did a similar job on my converted Hornby flats as the bogie mounted couplers caused nothing but problems, especially when reversing.
  11. irishthump

    Happy Christmas

    irishthump replied to Portoman's topic in News

    A Merry Christmas to everyone! May your stockings overflow with 071's, 141's, 201's or whatever you fancy.....
  12. irishthump
    The reason I ask is that with my old Hornby Select some decoder's lights would stay on whether the function button was on or not! Something to do with the Select's output signal being very rough.
  13. irishthump
    You could have a stray wire or piece of solder which is allowing current to get to the LED. It might be worth stripping the heat shrink off the decoder.
  14. irishthump
    The wiring certainly sounds right. and it should'nt make any difference if the resistor is on the positive or the negative. 2K sounds a little high, I would use a 1K for most LEDs but it should'nt cause a problem. The most important thing is that they are wired in parallel with a resistor on each. I have read that the older Digitrax decoders don't work well with LEDs for lighting but I though that was fixed with the later ones like the DH126D. Might be an idea to try some incandescent bulbs if you have any just to see if they work. By the way, what DCC system are you using?
  15. irishthump
    That's a weird one... How did you connect the blue wire to the front and back leds? Did you wire them with a resistor on each one? (BTW if you get the polarity wrong on the led it won't light at all.)
  16. irishthump
    Yeah, lovely job Kieran. I think the running problems could in part be because of the tension lock couplers.
  17. irishthump
    Awww nice! Suitably grimey as well!
  18. irishthump
  19. irishthump
    I stumbled across this great series of videos on Youtube. Lots of protypical footage...
  20. irishthump
    Believe what when you see it? Him not buying any more locos or a RTR 121?
  21. irishthump
    If you run your locos on a regular basis, then modern models like MM's need very little maintenance. Wheel cleaning being the only thing that regularly needs doing. Most models now have can motors, so the brushes are not accesible and lubriction should be done sparingly (usually be applied with the head of a pin.) As Warbonnet said; if a loco is running and not making any funny noises, then leave it alone!
  22. irishthump
    Actually that one in the picture is too short - it's a bleedin' N gauge model!
  23. irishthump
    No argument there.... I have one and I'm not too impressed with it. I replaced the traction tyres with metal wheels so it now picks up power on all wheels, added a load of weight and it still would'nt pull the skin of a rice pudding!
  24. irishthump
    Looks a bit long to me; too much space between the bogies....
  25. irishthump
    I was actually talking about the A class! I'd give a cosmetic axle a go with the Athearn chassis. You can pick them up handy (and cheaply) enough on Ebay and they can be made to run very well with a bit of work. I certainly would'nt spend close to €100 on a 141 just to stick the chassis under a silverfox kit.
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