irishthump

I don't think it makes a difference if you run it in on DCC. I think the reason manufacturers recommend you run in on DC before converting to DCC is so that you can be sure the loco is running properly before you chip it. If you install the chip and it does'nt work, at least you'll know it's not the loco!

On the subect of running in; I gave each of my 141s a run of about 45 mins in each direction (without any coaches or wagons) on DC before fitting them with DCC decoders. You can actually hear the diefference in the motor, it runs more smoothly and quietly.

I can't seem to get the hang of removing the bodies by squeezing the sides either. My own method (after removing front cab) is to turn the loco upside down, you can get at the tabs that hold the body on if you turn the bogies to the side. It's then a simple matter of easing the tabs away one by one and the body comes off easily. Another advantage of doing it this way is that you don't need to remove the side railings.

Have to agree Anto. A very light weathering would set this loco off perfectly. It just would'nt be right to have a spotless loco on a detailed layout like yours, it just seems out of place.

Your wallet will be opened as well!

Did you go with the Advance 2? I have one myself and it's a great piece of kit.

How about these... OK, I know one is a 181....

I decided to fit some taillights to my home-made Dutch generator van. Here's the result... I think I may have mounted them a little high, but anyway... The lights are DCC controlled and I attached pickups on all four wheels to reduce flickering. The pickups are from DCC supplies and are very easy to fit. Testing, testing.... I had some trouble with the Hornby decoders I used in this van and the brake vans I fitted lights to. If there was any sort of break in the current the functions would switch off and have to be turned back on again (this does'nt happen with my other decoders, if you activate the lights and take the loco off the rails when you replace it back on the track whatever function lights you had activated would come back on.) I expected some flickering since I use insulfrog points but the lights going out was just plain annoying! I got around the problem by wiring the lights to the motor output wires on the decoder.

Hello all! New site looks great.... Can I ask is the old site "due to be scrapped"?

Suits me, that's the livery I'm looking for!