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irishthump

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Everything posted by irishthump

  1. irishthump
    Try isopropyl alcohol if you can get it, it will lift just about any paint finish. Soak it overnight then scrub off with a toothbrush. If you can't get the isopropyl alcohol then you could try using T-Cut and a cotton bud to remove the signage then just prime the wagons then repaint them.
  2. irishthump
    Many Happy Returns, Sir!
  3. irishthump
    Yeah but he mounts the coupler to the body of the loco. If you have a body mounted coupler on the loco you need to body mount it on the coach as well. Body mounted and bogie mounted don't mix well.
  4. irishthump
    The purists will tell you to body mount the couplers and this is how they are designed to work, but this can cause a lot of problems if you have tight curves/points on your layout. My now defunct layout had tight curves so I mounted them to the bogies permanently, but it's easy to mount them so they can be removed at a later time if you want. Body mounting the coupler (using the kadee draft box) is even easier and they are easily removed later if required.
  5. irishthump
    Yes, Noel. I'm afraid it is a bit of a myth! The whole Kadee/NEM process is a bit of a mess, the pockets are often WAY off the correct height and I find the swivelling cams that Murphy and Bachmann use don't play nice with Kadees either. If you're really serious about switching to Kadees I think you have to bite the bullet and fit them permanently, either to the body or to the truck/bogie.
  6. irishthump
    Have to say the Gaugemaster Prodigy is dead simple, that's why I chose it in the first place. I had watched several videos showing how to programme with systems like the Powercab and Digitrax and it's seems needlessly complicated.
  7. irishthump
    It's a much simpler process with the Gaugemaster controller but you need a programming track.
  8. irishthump
    And there you have it!
  9. irishthump
    You've got me there... I don't know the process for programming with the Powercab. That's the thing, it's different for every DCC system.
  10. irishthump
    Well you can either put them into a loco and read back the address on the programming track or you can just reset them by writing 8 to CV 8 which will set them back to default which is address 3.
  11. irishthump
    Thanks...I think! The trouble with this is that some manufacturers publish comprehensive lists of their version numbers and some don't. This link might help you: http://jmri.sourceforge.net/xml/XSLT/pages/DecoderId.html It's incomplete and some of the info may be out of date but it's a start.
  12. irishthump
    Well my attitude there is that if I built it once I can build it again! And I really enjoy the building process.
  13. irishthump
    To be honest I was almost glad in happened. I had made a few blunders with the track plan which resulted in the layout not working well for operation. Also, with all the rubbish finally being gone from the attic I'll have a lot more room.
  14. irishthump
    No such luck.... All I managed to save was all the peco pointwork ( I binned the Hornby ones!) and a few sections of flex track. All the ready-to-plant bits and pieces like figures, small platform details and lighting were kept and I managed to save the point motors and they're toggle switches. Everything else went in the bin!
  15. irishthump
    Yep, pretty traumatizing!
  16. irishthump
    Well I wouldn't call this an update but anyway... The layout is history! My attic had to be cleared in a hurry for insulation to be installed, so everything had to go. To be honest, I was thinking about making some major changes so this really forced my hand... Anyway I'm looking forward to getting started on the new layout, hopefully it won't be too long!
  17. irishthump
    Not trying to start anything here but in fairness, Garfield, the threads you mention are being hijacked by the same individuals. Expressing any kind of satisfaction with a Silverfox product is like a red rag to a bull with these people.
  18. irishthump
    Actually, they were filmed under regular, incandescent bulbs.... But anyway here's some more pics of them from my workbench thread http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/77-Graham-s-Workbench/page4 These were taken in more natural light.
  19. irishthump
    I would highly recommend the Lenz decoders myself. I use Lenz standards when hardwiring old Athearn Blue Box locos and the slow running is absolutely perfect, even with the crappy old open-frame motors.
  20. irishthump
    Depending on the chassis you could probably replace the wheels that have traction tyres to ones without them. I recently did this with a Hornby deltic chassis. It's an improvement but you have to add a lot of weight to get any traction.
  21. irishthump
    Bear in mind that if it has the standard Hornby decoder you won't be able to adjust CV5. Basic Hornby decoders offer very little adjustment, CV's 2, 5 or 6 can't be changed.
  22. irishthump
    Speak for your bleedin' self!
  23. irishthump
    No good for anything! The tip was gone after hardwiring a decoder into 1 locomotive.
  24. irishthump
    Yes but in fairness the soldering irons are muck. They have a really low quality bit that lasts a about a day!
  25. irishthump
    Forget I spoke!
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