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irishthump

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Everything posted by irishthump

  1. irishthump
    You can do the same job with solder but it needs a fair bit of cleaning up afterwards.
  2. irishthump
    You could also cut a tiny offcut of rail if you have any spare and slide it in at the join to close it up. Fiddly job, but do-able.
  3. irishthump
    To be honest I have seen worse on exhibition layouts! I would be more worried about the height difference at the join in that last pic. You might try bending the ends of the flexitrack down a little then re-joining them, or maybe squeeze the fishplates with a pliers they look a little distorted.
  4. irishthump
    Welcome to the site, Frank. Love the video and the variety of stock on your layout...
  5. irishthump
    Like Boskonay said you need to put insulating joiners where the points meet on the crossing, that will stop the short occurring. As for the gaps in the track, I would'nt worry about them damaging wheels it's only an issue if stock is derailing. It's a good idea to leave a small gap at a join to allow for expansion of the track in hot weather. I have also read comments on forums where modellers cut gaps in the track to simulate the "click-clack" of real rolling stock travelling over joints in the track. Can you post a pic of the gaps that you're worried about?
  6. irishthump
    Nice job, lovely to see one painted and up and running... Certainly looks the part in Supertrain!
  7. irishthump
    Another point is that if everything including points is controlled from your tablet, phone or indeed your DCC throttle, when you have a short or other problem the entire layout shuts down. Even though I use DCC I still control all my points from a seperate analogue panel.
  8. irishthump
    Does'nt support consists?!!! That's terrible for the price, tbh it sems a bit gimmicky to me.
  9. irishthump
    The Z21 looks very impressive but it's a big outlay at £340! You can get the Powercab for just over a 3rd of the price and it will do everything you would really need. I use a Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance 2 and I could'nt recommend it highly enough, but it's a little more expensive than the Powercab at around £200. One piece of advice I would give you is to download the manuals for any system you may be considering.
  10. irishthump
    The walls are 6mm mdf covered with brick paper that I downloaded for free from newrailwaymodellers.com, it looks a lot better when weathered as you can see. The brick courses on top are scored in 3mm foamboard painted grey with Halfords primer.
  11. irishthump
    5mm foamboard from my local art shop, the kind with smooth pressed surface on each side.
  12. irishthump
    Thanks, lads. Here's a couple more shots...
  13. irishthump
    I also made a start on my freight yard and sidings... The concrete hardstanding is foamboard painted with a mixture of grey emulsion and plaster which gives a good concrete effect. I have to make some sort of backscene for the yard to hide the mainline running behind it.
  14. irishthump
    Finally some progress! Finished the retaining walls around the station platforms... The kiosk, sandwich stall, bike rack and footbridge were Xmas presents! The headshunt to the left of the platform is also my programming track which is wired through a DPDT switch. When the led on the buffer is lit the track is under main power and it goes out when the track is in programming mode.
  15. irishthump
    Maybe it needs to be moved to it's own thread?
  16. irishthump
    I saw this layout myself at the Dun Laoghaire exhibition last year. My eldest son and I thought it was the best layout there, the scenic work on it was beautiful and I loved the fact it was just a backdrop for "trains to run around"!
  17. irishthump
    Do even the "faulty" circuit boards work with a 6 Pin decoder do some still need modifying?
  18. irishthump
    Correct me if I'm wrong but I think that would only give you cablights at one end.
  19. irishthump
    Did'nt get the chance....
  20. irishthump
    Saw her arrive in Connolly on Sunday and she has 3 windows in the IE colours.
  21. irishthump
    I did'nt use a template myself. I used various pieces of MDF all cut to 50mm width and used those to space all my track. For curves usinf flex track I just made sure not to make the radius any tighter than 2nd radius setrack. Seems to have worked ok so far!
  22. irishthump
    Had quick look at Colbert on Googlemaps and counted 6 141s in and around the station. God bless Google for not updating their images!
  23. irishthump
    Hi Driver, welcome aboard! It will be great to see an Irish layout in N gauge.... Plenty of pics please!
  24. irishthump
    Assuming your using OO gauge then the distance between track centers should be 67mm. That is when using normal Peco or Hornby settrack. The distance can be around 50mm when using more gentle curves and points, but should always check that your longest pieces of stock can pass each other on your tighest curves.
  25. irishthump
    Wonderfully neat work! Those little "contraptions" as you call them, I imagine the leds are for route indicating? Can you give us more info on them?
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