Jump to content

TimO

Members
  • Posts

    46
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

TimO's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • Reacting Well
  • Dedicated
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

59

Reputation

  1. The views of Bog Road level crossing show just how much detail can be modelled in a relatively small space and still have a continuous run, I didn’t fully appreciate its size until I saw this photo:
  2. If this fabulous atmospheric photo doesn’t increase demand for A42 ( and a few PW goods wagons) I don’t know what will. Delighted to see this loco at home on a layout.
  3. Does anyone have a track plan of Ardee? That was goods only for a time and might suffice.
  4. Could you show us pictures of the model please! I am very pleased to see that the Supertrain livery colour looks just the shade I recall and the loco seems to have a beautiful realistic stance on the rails, even the narrow track gauge does not detract. As a matter of interest what are the dimensions of your layout?
  5. One feature that always strikes me about the Mills’ designs are the significant number of openings for windows and doors. As the ‘horizontal’ black and red brick courses always travel around these openings we get the very distinctive style. This horizontal theme continues with the horizontal planking on the wooden building structures and follows the linear flow of the stations with platform, track and fencing.
  6. Good to see the progress on this layout. The buildings are looking at home here. As Noel says I see the DMC school of wiring but are you using DCC controlled point motors or have you control modules to install. I’m also interested to know what length of train can use the platform? Is it designed for a GWR ‘B’ set?
  7. Eoin, Fantastic detail and planning, perfectly executed again. Great to see this progressing. Tim
  8. TimO

    Customs & VAT

    Adding to the above and after a lot more research the TARIC code for imports is a 10 digit number made up of HS code 6 digits, CN (Combined Nomenclature) 2 digits and TARIC 2 digits. When you enter the TARIC database and select section XX, chapter 95 and then code 9503 0030 for model trains this number will be in blue and underlined indicating it is a declarable code, you might think this is the end of the story but you must hit return on this which brings you back to the first page and now displays the TARIC code as a full 10 digit number 9503003000. This last step is not intuitive but is described in one of the user guides. Hope this helps and perhaps the suppliers need to be advised.
  9. TimO

    Customs & VAT

    George, When you look up the EU website for TARIC codes they clearly show an 8 digit number such 95030030. There is no mention of 10 digits for imports. What are the two additional digits and where should they be placed? A bit more research and I found out the answers. See subsequent post.
  10. @mmie353, if your loco has been in storage you might want to check the backs of the wheels and the pickup contact points are clean and not covered in oil. Unlikely they are all affected but you never know until you test. Checking continuity from each wheel to the pcb is the place to start.
  11. Once the container train is on the Alexandra Quay sidings there is a loco release cross over so the loco can change ends and draw the loaded wagons back to North Wall Yard. On the Tara’s I believe the loco is released using the traverser in the unloading shed. The loco then uses the empty wagon line to access Alexandra Road. The length of the sidings limits the maximum numbers of wagons in the Tara train.
  12. You say that the motor biggie is locking. Does this happen on straights or curves or always at the place on your layout? Does it happen when travelling both backwards and forwards? Have you turned the loco over and looked to see if you can see anything that might catch? I have a C class where the glue holding on the bogie sides formed a glue string that acted as a brake and prevented the loco running properly in one direction. As others have said, more information would be useful. You may have to separate the body but as it’s glued on this is not a very simple task. Let us know how you get on.
  13. Definitely interested. I would purchase one.
  14. Thanks for the detail, lots of frame spacers there. I will follow this build / rebuild with interest. Good to see the Kadee planned in here from the start.
  15. Eoin, I have just read through this thread from the start, very interesting detail on what at first might seem like a straight forward project. I was particularly taken with the section on your notes, it just shows the amount of planning that’s done before you start. Am I correct in thinking that I even saw where you made a jig just to position the hole for the nut on the boiler dome in the correct place? What precision! I’ll shall be following carefully to see how you progress with the authentic side frames with openings, will you be able to maintain enough strength? Your idea with the axle tubes is intriguing but I wonder will the bottom of the frames tend to splay outwards. I’m sure you have a solution to that, perhaps with the mounting for the pickups. In the photo of the prototype it looks to me that the centre axle is closer to the front one than the back one, are you building the new chassis to prototype dimensions (wheelbase) or sticking with the Mainline ones to match your superdatailed body? Tim
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use