irishthump

I just saw this video over on RMWeb and I was surprised I hadn't seen it here. Sounds excellent IMHO.

It is also not recommended (per that manufacturer) to chip the loco until it has been run in. I suspect it doesn't do anything good for the decoder (although it may not damage it) and any CVs that you set such as momentum, top speed etc may all change as the running characteristics of the motor it controls changes.

 

It doesn't really matter if you run in a loco on DC or DCC. As Dave said, the motor receives DC current from the decoder anyway. Running in a loco on DCC won't effect the decoder. (Unless the loco drive binds right from the start and stalls the motor, but newer motors don't draw enough amps to burn out a decoder even when stalled.)

The reason manufacturers recommend running in before installing a decoder is to make sure it's the mechanism is in order before opening up the loco for the DCC install. If you install a decoder and it doesn't run well you have no way of knowing if it's the decoder or motor at fault!

Also when opening the loco you run the risk of damaging it and invalidating the warrantee.

I've used "blade-switching" successfully without much of a problem. It's worth checking each point for clean operation before installation, some tweaking of the wiper contacts is sometimes necessary.

It's best to modify any point (insulfrog or electrofrog) by wiring jumpers between the stock and closure rails. This way you no longer rely on the blades making an electrical connection. You can then paint the sides of the rails to your hearts content and not have to worry about poor conductivity.

You should get away with it, if it's not connected to the rails.

You would have to be very careful, there is no gap between the metal and the plastic. And with Peco points the frog is much smaller.

Not to mention the fact that the paint will wear of quite quickly and be spread all over the layout and the wheels of your rolling stock.

 

If your points are in gauge and working for you, and your wagons are square, just put some silver paint on the top of the frog, some track colour on the side, and carry on.

 

 

Alan

Don't use metallic paint on a plastic frog, the whole point is that it is insulated. Some metallic paints are conductive.

Nice! I have a proto 2000 F7 A-B-B-A set in SP black widow with factory sound (QSI) and the sound is so poor compared to yours. I thought the tsunami was the best but the loksound sounds superb! Are the 8 pin or board replacements?

Thanks, Fran.

I'll be honest, I have an F7 A&B fitted with Tsunamis and while they sound great the Loksound is just as good and has much better control.

It's an 8 pin decoder and I hardwired an 8 pin socket into the A unit as well as a bass enhanced speaker. I made the B unit into a dummy and installed a second speaker in the shell. Both are wired in series to the decoder, you can see the speaker wires going between the units. I also used a drawbar between the units rather than couplers.

Just finished installing sound in this loco. Proto 1000 A&B units fitted with a Loksound decoder.

[video=youtube;7YEf3-L_khA]

Would love to see a video if you get the chance, Rich!

How many different engine sounds are on the decoder?

I used 10mm MDF for my the baseboards on my new layout. It's bog-standard grade from my local building suppliers but I find it fine so far. I used 18mm ply for the last layout

but it was normal "B&Q" grade so it was less than satisfactory for many of the reasons already mentioned. I looked into birch ply but, as was said, it was too expensive. I also had a few issues with the ply warping because of the temperature changes in my attic. It wasn't too severe but it caused some problems where baseboards butted against each other.

Another thing is that you will seldom get any plywood sheets from a supplier that don't have some distortion, usually from poor storage. The likes of Woodies and B&Q are even worse!

The new baseboards are supported on a frame of 2X1 softwood. Sounds a bit lightweight, but this frame is itself supported by the rafters in my attic so it is more than rigid enough. Track pins aren't an issue for my as I glue my track. I use clear "No More Nails" for fixing the track to the foam underlay which is itself fixed to the MDF board with the same adhesive.

One more issue which hasn't been mentioned; if you are planning to use point motors you need to give some thought to the thickness of the board. Using a "sandwich" of foam and other materials will make it very difficult to install point motors under the baseboards.

The book "First steps in railway modelling" by CJ Freezer has a detailed discussion on building baseboards. Marks Models and other outlets should have it available.

That book is nearly 30 years old. I hope it has been revised to take into account the advances in building materials....

Thanks IT, so is it a sound chip, sound decoder, or sound card that go's into the loco, or are they all the same thing, just different names for the same thing, & yes I haven't got a clue about these things, thanks

Paul

Yes there are several names for it, decoder chip, sound card. They're all valid!

Sorry about that it, should have said what's the difference in the decoders in the MM as compared to ESU, etc. is the quality better or what, thanks,

Paul

No problem!

The MM sound decoders are regular ESU Loksound V4's.

As Dhu Varren said the files are freely available on the ESU website for the 071's and 201's. These can be programmed to the decoders if you have the ESU lokprogrammer.

All of my 201, 071 and 141/181 decoders have been programmed this way.

Slightly aside from the Jinty sound issues, anyone know anything about MM sound decoders, which are available for the 071, thanks guys,

What do you want to know? I don't think they would sound right in a Jinty....

Loksound decoders can be fitted with a keep-alive module, http://www.digitrains.co.uk/ecommerce/locomotive-decoders/small/54670-esu-powerpack.aspx but it would never fit in a Jinty, unless it was not sound fitted.

I stand corrected!

I had recently read an interview with Matt Herman from ESU and he was describing how fitting stay-alive to the V4 was "problematic". I guess they've solved the problem, good news!

Even though an ESU decoder, this well exceeds the value of the locomotive itself at Stg117,50. Where's the speaker? Is it all in one or you need to purchase that in addition

Bloody hell! That's about €165 at the current exchange rate. Another option if you plane to install sound in more then one loco might be to buy blank decoders (they can be got for €99 each with free delivery from Modellbahn Lippe) and get them "re-blown" with the required sound.

Retro fitting sound to 0-6-0 tank locos can be quite tight for space. There are a few factory fitted sound on 0-6-0 models. One might think having electrofrog points or keep-a-live DCC module necessary to get smooth running. If a sound loco experiences short power loss, the sound can trip out until switched back on by function key.

 

PS: I wasn't advocating use of a tender with the Jinty.

I'm not 100% sure but I don't think Loksounds can be fitted with a keep-alive module.

Have to be honest, I'd be very reluctant to fit a sound chip to a 0-6-0 loco without either keep-alive or extra pickups. I would install pickups on a coach or brakevan and have it permanently coupled to the loco.

Either way, as Dhu Varren says, space is tight in those Jintys.

People get into a frenzy when bidding on eBay and lose focus on what the item is actually worth.

+1

That's a bit of a myth, if your track is a loop it returns back on itself anyway.

Recommended practice is to place insulated joiners in the loop of track at roughly the same point as the gap in the bus. The problems a looped bus can cause mainly effect large layouts, but they can cause issues in small layouts that might seem intermittent. On my old layout which had a main loop of roughly 20ft x 4ft I had an issue where some locos wouldn't respond to commands straight away. It dawned on me that it would happen at roughly the point that was furthest from where the bus connected to the command station. I cut the bus loop and gapped the track and the problems disappeared.

As far as I know, which others may disagree with, you don't need your bus for DCC in a loop or circle to follow the track. According to a bit of reading from various folks, a star type bus is preferred. In fact some advise against a complete loop .

It's best not to have a loop. I believe the simple explanation is that the signal from the controller goes out along the bus and in a loop the signal will effectively "double back" on itself whish can" confuse" decoders.

I find spirits can be a little harsh on the paint, if you put on too much and don't take it off quickly it will eat into the paint very quickly.

I find T-Cut is better and will also leave a shiny surface for the new decal. Again, only use a tiny amount on a cotton bud and rub very gently. Don't leave it sitting on the model for any amount of time! Once the old number is removed take a clean cotton bud and lightly polish the surface.

I think poor Frasier got the worst of it....

[video=youtube;Eu-BqOsvj00]

The beauty about dinghams is they work with an over sized smiths hook. If you dangle some three links from there, that end ( without the latch ) looks virtually prototypical. The other big issue with kadees is the cost. That put me completely off them

 

Unfortunately all couplers are compromises, but the tension lock , is easily the worst

I had a look at a few different couplers before settling on Kadees, and the Dingham ones seemed the best of them to be honest. Certainly a bit cheaper than Kadees but I dod'nt fancy the assembly involved and they can't be painted. Also, the "handedness" was an issue for me.

But like you say, anything is better than a tension lock coupler!

Have to mention Kadees, even though they are not prototypical but then they're no less prototypical than the Dingham couplers!

Delayed uncoupling is easily accomplished with magnets and on layouts with generous curves they can be set close enough so as to give the impression of the stock being pushed by the buffers. Smaller, scale-sized Kadees are also available which are less noticeable.

I favour the Loksound myself. I prefer the way it drives to the Zimo, but like Noel said that's a matter of taste.

I splashed out last year and bought a Lokprogrammer so I can programme and alter my own sounds. The sounds for Irish locos are freely available on ESU's website.

Blank Loksounds can be got for €99 each including shipping from Modelbahnne Lippe in Germany. I can then programme as I like and change the result if I'm not happy with it.

Apologies Blaine. I'm relatively new to this forum myself having joined only last autumn, but keep stumbling across some very interesting material on here, some of which may also be of interest to other newbies.

I'm here a good while and never saw this thread... Glad you shared it to be honest!