irishthump

Loksound decoders can be fitted with a keep-alive module, http://www.digitrains.co.uk/ecommerce/locomotive-decoders/small/54670-esu-powerpack.aspx but it would never fit in a Jinty, unless it was not sound fitted.

I stand corrected!

I had recently read an interview with Matt Herman from ESU and he was describing how fitting stay-alive to the V4 was "problematic". I guess they've solved the problem, good news!

Even though an ESU decoder, this well exceeds the value of the locomotive itself at Stg117,50. Where's the speaker? Is it all in one or you need to purchase that in addition

Bloody hell! That's about €165 at the current exchange rate. Another option if you plane to install sound in more then one loco might be to buy blank decoders (they can be got for €99 each with free delivery from Modellbahn Lippe) and get them "re-blown" with the required sound.

Retro fitting sound to 0-6-0 tank locos can be quite tight for space. There are a few factory fitted sound on 0-6-0 models. One might think having electrofrog points or keep-a-live DCC module necessary to get smooth running. If a sound loco experiences short power loss, the sound can trip out until switched back on by function key.

 

PS: I wasn't advocating use of a tender with the Jinty.

I'm not 100% sure but I don't think Loksounds can be fitted with a keep-alive module.

Have to be honest, I'd be very reluctant to fit a sound chip to a 0-6-0 loco without either keep-alive or extra pickups. I would install pickups on a coach or brakevan and have it permanently coupled to the loco.

Either way, as Dhu Varren says, space is tight in those Jintys.

People get into a frenzy when bidding on eBay and lose focus on what the item is actually worth.

+1

That's a bit of a myth, if your track is a loop it returns back on itself anyway.

Recommended practice is to place insulated joiners in the loop of track at roughly the same point as the gap in the bus. The problems a looped bus can cause mainly effect large layouts, but they can cause issues in small layouts that might seem intermittent. On my old layout which had a main loop of roughly 20ft x 4ft I had an issue where some locos wouldn't respond to commands straight away. It dawned on me that it would happen at roughly the point that was furthest from where the bus connected to the command station. I cut the bus loop and gapped the track and the problems disappeared.

As far as I know, which others may disagree with, you don't need your bus for DCC in a loop or circle to follow the track. According to a bit of reading from various folks, a star type bus is preferred. In fact some advise against a complete loop .

It's best not to have a loop. I believe the simple explanation is that the signal from the controller goes out along the bus and in a loop the signal will effectively "double back" on itself whish can" confuse" decoders.

I find spirits can be a little harsh on the paint, if you put on too much and don't take it off quickly it will eat into the paint very quickly.

I find T-Cut is better and will also leave a shiny surface for the new decal. Again, only use a tiny amount on a cotton bud and rub very gently. Don't leave it sitting on the model for any amount of time! Once the old number is removed take a clean cotton bud and lightly polish the surface.

I think poor Frasier got the worst of it....

[video=youtube;Eu-BqOsvj00]

The beauty about dinghams is they work with an over sized smiths hook. If you dangle some three links from there, that end ( without the latch ) looks virtually prototypical. The other big issue with kadees is the cost. That put me completely off them

 

Unfortunately all couplers are compromises, but the tension lock , is easily the worst

I had a look at a few different couplers before settling on Kadees, and the Dingham ones seemed the best of them to be honest. Certainly a bit cheaper than Kadees but I dod'nt fancy the assembly involved and they can't be painted. Also, the "handedness" was an issue for me.

But like you say, anything is better than a tension lock coupler!

Have to mention Kadees, even though they are not prototypical but then they're no less prototypical than the Dingham couplers!

Delayed uncoupling is easily accomplished with magnets and on layouts with generous curves they can be set close enough so as to give the impression of the stock being pushed by the buffers. Smaller, scale-sized Kadees are also available which are less noticeable.

I favour the Loksound myself. I prefer the way it drives to the Zimo, but like Noel said that's a matter of taste.

I splashed out last year and bought a Lokprogrammer so I can programme and alter my own sounds. The sounds for Irish locos are freely available on ESU's website.

Blank Loksounds can be got for €99 each including shipping from Modelbahnne Lippe in Germany. I can then programme as I like and change the result if I'm not happy with it.

Apologies Blaine. I'm relatively new to this forum myself having joined only last autumn, but keep stumbling across some very interesting material on here, some of which may also be of interest to other newbies.

I'm here a good while and never saw this thread... Glad you shared it to be honest!

Can you share the video? Don't think I've seen that one, it sounds interesting!

Have you seen my magic snake?

If it only has one eye then I'm going to be very upset!

Head End Power generator caught fire in the engine room

I thought the 201's didn't have an auxiliary generator for HEP....

We love you really.

Still not feeling it.....

As with so many things, people seem to get different responses from MM. I had a problem recently with a broke buffer on a 141/181, and, after two emails to MM, spares came in the post from quite where I don't know. Very often you just have to both patient and persistent - they are humans like us, after all.

 

Stephen

I'm curious about the nature of the complaints that MM is receiving from some people. If you receive a loco from a retailer and it's damaged, it's the responsibility of the retailer to remedy the situation. Personally, I wouldn't be contacting MM, or any other manufacturer, over broken buffer or missing detail part.

BTW no offence intended Stephen, the fact you got sorted by PM just shows that he does try to accommodate people.

I don't have this problem, nobody talks to me....

Had a look through a few of this guy's other videos, his layout tour video is a bit cheesy but some of his modelling is top notch. Take a look at this FP9.....

no signals, focus on driving trains, etc etc , why would anyone want to build something like that.

I thought the idea of "operating" a layout would focus on driving trains.

Have a look at this.... This guy built a DCC controller to resemble a full sized loco cab!

The earlier videos he posted show how he assembled it, but this one shows it in action...

The loco or the car?

Both. And they'd strip the copper out of the loco's generator too.....

Hopefully there was an offshore breeze, or there would only be the glass and tyres left when he came back for it..

I'm surprised it's not up on blocks.....

Great photo. What a difference the tippex and white logo made.

Am I right in saying the tippex and logo was applied straight over the Supertrain livery?