irishthump

Irishthump, do you think that the Lima 201 body is more highly detailed and accurate when compared to the newer MM version irrespective of the running quality of the Lima chassis to the MM one. That's what people expect today prototype to model fidelity in looks when comparison between the two is made. Any review of a model in any of the publications always gives more scrutiny to overall dimension and detail than running quality because they expect quality running in what are the current expectations for what a model should perform like. We pay enough for them because we love the hobby so what's wrong with wanting a cracking looking model. If a motor is dodgy bring it back and get it replaced. Bachmann got hammered when they released their first version of the class 37. The errors in the dimensions were so wrong that they eventually retooled the model to correct it, and I am talking about a production model not a pre - production model. I will also add that the loco was a great runner from the outset.

 

Rich,

I don't for one second think the Lima 201 is superior in detail to the MM 201, and that was not my point. My point was that there are MANY modellers out there who are more than happy to overlook dimensional and livery innacuracies in a decent running model. I've seen Lima 201 bodies being placed on Bachmann chassis on this very forum!

The Heljan vs. Dapol class 52 discussion is case in point. There was much hullabaloo over the issues with the front profile of the Heljan model, but that did'nt stop plenty of modellers with the same attitude as me from buying them. Same with the early 37's, they sell like hot cakes on Ebay.

Plenty of modellers are more concerned with running their trains rather than looking at them.

As long as I have been involved in the hobby I have never once heard anyone make the statement that running is more important than looks. If it is not accurate in dimension or livery, putting a Rolls Royce engine under it won't make it a good model. Not at the prices that we have to pay now. Accuracy of the model when compared to the prototype it is modelled on is hugely important and the most critically important part of how the model is perceived by the prospective buying public. Nothing worse that looking at a sows ear even if it has a smooth running chassis.

 

Rich,

I would have to disagree, there's a huge percentage of modellers (myself among them) who are willing to sacrifice some details in favour of model that runs well.

Haven't Bachmann also announced some sort of low cost sound system as well?

Bachmann have the "Sound Value" range for their HO line, and I have a couple of those locos. These use budget priced Tsunami decoders which are great but again they have a lack of adjustment whenn compared to the high end decoders.

Great Value for sound but I think there not as realistic sounding as the dedicated decoders. The chuff sound did not really match the Speed but I may take a look at the CV Values and adjust something there when I get time. The Whistles and the Rest were spot on except for the Station masters Whistle which sounded like he had swallowed it!

That seems to be the general consensus...

The sound is of good quality in general and they are grea value for somebody who wants to try sound without breaking the bank. But the more discerning sound-users are focusing on the lack of adjustment. The individual sound volume levels can be adjusted but things like not being able to sync the chuff sound with loco speed is a downer for some people.

I'll get one of the diesels myself when they come out, you can't go wrong at that price!

Here ya go; spare bogies frames...

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/00-Gauge-Heljan-Class-26-27-33-Bo-Bo-Diesel-Bogie-Side-frames-x-4-Unused-VGC-/261710986196?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item3cef30bbd4

Thanks again guys? So to put it bluntly, a bobo has 8 wheels & a coco has 12 wheels, right? great, got it ! as you look closely at the pics of that class 33 you'll see it's had a bang & is missing a buffer, other than that it fine, so who on here would take on the job (paid for of course) of converting it to something resembilling an A Class as I really have decided to go Irish, even though I have some UK / BR that I'll be holding onto !

Well that changes things..... I would gut it and use the motor and bogies for a silverfox C class!

Guys, with thedcc & all wheel pick up, would it really be that much work to make it kinds like an A Class, what exactly would you have to do to have a likeable A Class !!! Btw, what's a bobo & what's a coco (other than the night drink )

To be honest I would make do with repainting it into CIE colours, maybe redoing the front windows! But why would you bother? It's a nice loco as is.

Hi guys & thanks, now let me explain something about model trains, or real trains for that matter, if I was run over by a bo-bo or a co-co I wouldn't have a clue what it was, I just have a love for model trains & if that loco never ran with those carriages, whatever train, then I wo'nt tell the conductor !! I also have 2 Lima A Class's in cie livery, same as the 2 on Noel's post, one has a new motor fitted, & this is the Heljan I got recently,

 

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/OO-Gauge-Heljan-3322-Class-33-6591-BR-Blue-DCC-Ready-/390974936679?rd=1&ssPageName=STRK:MERFB:IID

I'm not a rivet counter either, I'm just trying to convince you NOT to cut this loco up! Seriously, I'd run it as-is with some BR coaches.

By the way, I looked at the pics on Ebay and it definatley has the older brass wheels. Take my advice and switch them for the newer nickel steel sets. I got mine from

Howes models.

Hi guys, I have only very recently got hold of an Class 33 which is DCC ready, with the intention of converting it to an A Class, now I'm no perfectionist so if the windows, doors etc. are in the wrong place so be it, if it looks anything like an A Class that'll do me, I only need to have it sprayed first, then I'll get a sound card, if possible & see how it runs & sounds, at this junction I believe there is no sound card available but I have been told mrsoundguy is working on one,

 

PS forgot to mention it's a Heljan, sorry don't know if this makes any difference

Don't really know about converting it to look like an A class, but I would say it would be a lot of work! I don't think the overall dimensions are correct, plus it's a Bo-Bo.

The Heljans are lovely runners on DC and DCC. By the way, if the model has the older brass wheels replace them, they get dirty very quickly and will break your heart on DCC!

Fitting them with sound involves a little work though, here's a good video....

Personally, I would leave it as is and install a Class 33 sound chip! They're a lovely model and it would be a shame to hack it up.

Thanks for that. You would expect then the Elite to be ok with both?

 

Oh and a heads-up for anyone with an Elite who is thinking of getting one of Hattons own 21-pin decoders for their Murphy Models 141/18 loco, Hattons state on the product page that this decoder isn't compatible with the Hornby Elite.

To be honest I would expect the Elite to work with any decoder as Hornby state that it's NMRA compliant. If that's not the case then I would steer clear of it.

What have you heard about this Noel? Do you mind me asking what controller you use?

 

I heard that Hornby Select users had issues with the 36-557's. However reading on some UK forums, there also appears to be people saying Hornby Elite users had issues with this decoder too.

 

It is hard to know which of the 36-554 or the 36-557 is best to use if you have a Hornby Select, or if you have a Hornby Elite!

Well the Select is not NMRA compliant, so it has issues with several brands of decoders; Bachmann and TCS were the ones which caused the most hassle. The problem is with the Select itself, not with the decoders.

Hi guys, anyone on here fitted a Lima A Class with DCC & sound,

As far as I know there is no DCC sound chip available for the A class yet, although Mr Soundguy is supposed to be working on one.

Although I think Enniscorthyman of this parish got a hold of a protoype....

http://s370.photobucket.com/user/eamonnredmond/media/20141021_125849_zpshdi0patz.mp4.html

Nice work...

Aside from how well it runs, it's a lovely paint job!

I glued a small piece of plastic in between the 2 frame sides and tapped a hole M2 then fitted a Kadee 141 coupling in a Kadee coupling box. It sounds worse than it was to do. The difficult part was making sure that the coupling height worked out ok. The photos at the link attached helps to see the set up and the result on the track.

 

 

 

It does run well with this set up for me with large curves.

Nice work! I did a similar job on my converted Hornby flats as the bogie mounted couplers caused nothing but problems, especially when reversing.

A Merry Christmas to everyone! May your stockings overflow with 071's, 141's, 201's or whatever you fancy.....

The Digitrak DCS51

The reason I ask is that with my old Hornby Select some decoder's lights would stay on whether the function button was on or not! Something to do with the Select's output signal being very rough.

The Digitrak DCS51 , I've a BR Class 37 thats DCC ready with a chip and I can program away on that with both front & rear lights.

 

I'll strip it down again tomorrow night or Stephen's day and have a look.

You could have a stray wire or piece of solder which is allowing current to get to the LED. It might be worth stripping the heat shrink off the decoder.

Very weird, I've double checked everything. Wiring is:

 

Blue common from the chip to both LEDs on the positive.

 

Yellow to the rear light negative.

 

White to the front light negative.

 

For good or bad I've the 2k resistor on the positive common on both LEDs. I'll change that and put the resistor on the negative.

 

I'm pretty sure I've both lights on Function one but still learning and working my way through manual.

 

Bill

The wiring certainly sounds right. and it should'nt make any difference if the resistor is on the positive or the negative. 2K sounds a little high, I would use a 1K for most LEDs but it should'nt cause a problem. The most important thing is that they are wired in parallel with a resistor on each.

I have read that the older Digitrax decoders don't work well with LEDs for lighting but I though that was fixed with the later ones like the DH126D. Might be an idea to try some incandescent bulbs if you have any just to see if they work.

By the way, what DCC system are you using?

Hi Lads,

 

I've wired up my loco for front & rear lights (LEDS) , the front led lights up just fine and I can program it for the various modes . The rear light stays on constantly unless I drop the power to the BUS and then off it goes. I've check the polarity on the LED, the common blue wire and the yellow reverse wire is as it should be

 

 

I'm using a Digitrax DH126D. I've factory reset the chip and still the same.

 

Any ideas?

 

Bill

That's a weird one...

How did you connect the blue wire to the front and back leds? Did you wire them with a resistor on each one? (BTW if you get the polarity wrong on the led it won't light at all.)

Flats look the business Kieran,hope you get the running problems ironed out.Really like the way you have blended the scenery with the backscene,great work

Yeah, lovely job Kieran.

I think the running problems could in part be because of the tension lock couplers.

Awww nice! Suitably grimey as well!

I stumbled across this great series of videos on Youtube. Lots of protypical footage...

I'll believe it when i see it!!

Believe what when you see it? Him not buying any more locos or a RTR 121?

I think the guys would probably like a guide. Covering how to open parts of the loco, where to lube with greace and where to lube with oil, gears, shafts, service intervals for motor bushes, how to clean pickups and wheel rims and wheel backs, recommended materials, use of cradle, power clips to run bogies inverted in cradle for lube, cleaning, test, etc, bla, bla

If you run your locos on a regular basis, then modern models like MM's need very little maintenance. Wheel cleaning being the only thing that regularly needs doing.

Most models now have can motors, so the brushes are not accesible and lubriction should be done sparingly (usually be applied with the head of a pin.)

As Warbonnet said; if a loco is running and not making any funny noises, then leave it alone!