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irishthump
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Posts posted by irishthump
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The main difference between 8 pin and 21 pin is the number of functions available through the pins. An 8 pin socket will only support 3 functions, although 4 function decoders with an 8 pin plug will have an extra 9th wire which requires connecting separately for the 4th function. 21 pin connectors will support 6 functions. If using sound decoders, an 8 pin setup will also require speaker connections, whereas a 21 pin setup has the connections built in.
I would agree with skinner75 that it is a good idea to fit pre-DCC locos with 8 pin sockets instead of directly wiring into the loco, providing there is enough space inside for a socket and a decoder.
Sorry Dhu Varren, we must have been typing at the same time!
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The amount of pins on the decoder is mainly to do with the amount of functions. 8 pin has a maximum of 3 functions which can be used without any modifications. The word "function" does not cover motor control, it's normally lights, sound or even smoke generators or couplers. Many 8 pin decoders will have a seperate purple wire which can be connected to power an extra function but this has to be wired in seperate from the decoder socket.
Having said that, Murphy's 141's have a 21 pin socket but actually don't require it. The loco only uses 2 functions (forward and backward lights) so an 8 pin decoder can be used with a 21-8 pin adaptor. To be honest though, there's no benefit as the cost of the decoder plus adaptor is close enough to the cost of a 21 pin decoder! You might even run into problems squeezing the decoder+adaptor+wires under the body of a 141....
The 071's and 201's actually need a 21 pin chip that supports 6 functions to allow you use all the lighting features on the loco. You can use a cheaper decoder (which usually have 4 functions) but the cab lights won't work.
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Noel,
DO I understand that the WiThrottle app will interface with any system that's compatible with JMRI?
I use a Gaugemaster/MRC Prodigy Advance 2 and MRC have just opened up their software to be JMRI compatible.
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Hi Noel, the American stuff has fallen way behind. It seems its a case of if it ain't broke don't fix it! The NCE powercab is a good example of this,
I think you hit the nail on the head there, Dave. I think it has to do with the older demographic of the US market. You've got a lot of old timers (no offence intended there!) who don't want to give up the feel of a throttle in their hand. Mention computer control and it's like a red rag to a bull!
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Great shots of 145 and 177 in Black and Tan.
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The loksound should let you enter a value from zero to 31 for CV 278/CV 286 for Aux 1 and Aux 2 brightness
Sorry! Boskonay's right. The value should be 0-31 not 0-255.....
You also have to set CV 31 to 16 and CV 32 to 0 before changing those function output CV's.
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OK no NCE Pro Cab users around for past 24hr, but . . .
I've been wondering if I'm going about this the wrong way, should I be looking at reprogramming the decoder to remap functions above 9 (i.e. 10-19) to lower FN values (e.g. 5-9). I'm trying to get the MM 071 sound chip FN 18 & 19 on direct key access so need to map them to say FN 8 & 9?
PS: does anybody know if the MM 071 sound decoder (i.e. LokSound V4.0) can be programmed to dim the cab light. It's a bit stark.
Noel,
The various sound functions can all be remapped to different keys. I have had it done by the suppliers before myself, but I'm not 100% sure of the process.
The Loksound V4 manual explains it but it takes a while to get your head around. The full V4 manual is here - http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/instruction-manuals/digital-decoders/
Any of the light functions can adjusted, as far as I remember the cab lights are on functions outputs 5 and 6. According to the Loksound manual the brightness on these outputs is controlled by CV's 294 and 302. You can just experiment with values of between 0-255 until you get the level you like.
Hope that helps!
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I need a microscope to get the railings back on.
Yep, they're a b**ger and no mistake! Personally I leave the railings on and just release the tabs from underneath as aclass07 said.
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Absolutely top notch lads!
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Thanks guys. I couldn't find your workbench tread irishthump
Here it is - http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/77-Graham-s-Workbench/page10
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Thanks. Just read a magazine article on fitting one of these to a 141/181 but it seems a little bit of cannibalisation is needed to fit a speaker.
Not at all. If you look at my workbench thread you can see how installed a decoder and speaker in one of my 141's. The back of the speaker can be removed which allows you to fit it under the body without having to do any drastic surgery!
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Looks superb!
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Hattons do there own range of DCC decoders, I have used quite a few of them and find them reliable and very competitively priced. Postage is very cheap too
8 pin 4 function
21 pin 4 function
Dave, you notice any issues with the Hattons decoders when trying to set start and top voltage CV's? I'm having some trouble getting them to run how I want them....
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I have several of MSB's sound decoders, 141's, 071's and 201's. As Boskonay said the quality of the sound files are excellent.
I also have a 141 decoder that I had made up by Olivia's Trains in the UK, it's a Loksound decoder like the Murphy Models 071 and 201 (the MSB decoders are Zimo). Both types have excellent motor control but the Loksounds have a "manual notching" feature which allows you to increase the revs of the engine sound independently of the locos speed. It's great for simulating getting a heavy train started but not essential!
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The second question is... : way back when I bought a Lima signal light that hooks into a lima 3 switch gizmo (flattish square red yoke with a black switch and three power points on it and this feeds to the signal and then to a track with a cut in the rail. The idea been green light you have power to the track and move on ; red light you have no power to the track and go nowhere. My plan was to use this as the programming track as its in the yard and I thought it'd look pretty fancy with the signal light that killed main power to the track. I get the impression that this might be a bad idea DCC wise
I don't think that switch is suitable as it sounds like it uses a single pole/single throw switch which uses a common return. You need to wire it with a double pole/double throw switch to keep the two outputs seperate. It's also a good idea to have a section of track between the main line and programming track which is dead when the programming track is activated.
Here is a link to a great site for all things DCC - http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC.html#Programming
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Power requirement is mostly the number of locos that you'll be running - track length won't bother it too much.
Modern locos like the Murphy's 141 and 071 will draw around .5 Amps when running. Now correct me if I'm wrong but I think the Powercab provides 3 Amps of power so you should be able to run 6 locos at once.
As Broith said the size of the layout has little bearing on that as long as you use suitable sized wire for the DCC bus.
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I used enamal sand thinned them
Try a 50:50 mix of Humbrol matt black and matt leather over the bogies and underframe of the loco. When that's dry follw it with some very light touches of matt leather over the bogies.
I use the same colours on my own stuff - http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/77-Graham-s-Workbench/page11
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Sean they look great! It's very easy to over do it with an airbrush but you've got in just about right.
What paint did you use by the way? Acrylic or enamels?
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It's definitely the way to go either way, and you can still run the DC locos (one at a time) on the DCC layout/
A few manufacturers say you can run a DC loco with their controllers but it's really not recommended!
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Don't get me started! DCC is the ONLY way to run model trains as far as I'm concerned..... I bit extreme maybe but have said it a thousand times, if it had'nt been for DCC I would never have returned to the hobby.
Anyway, yes it's easy to change a layout from DC to DCC at a later date, in the wiring is less complicated. DCC just requires that there is power to ALL parts of the layout at all times, there is no need for isolating sections or sidings.
Murphy's locos are easy to fit with DCC as they all have sockets for a decoder. Suitable decoders can be got for around the €20 mark and you can get small discounts from suppliers if you but them in bulk.
As for controllers the Hornby Select is ok to start with and will run trains fine but it is very limited in its functions and programming, I would advise that you buy a good controller from the start. As NIR said Lenz are excellent but also very expensive. The NCE Powercab can be got for just under €150 online and will do pretty much all you will ever need.
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Lads,
I came across this on RMWEB and thought it might be useful for anyone who owns some of Model Shop Belfast's sound decoders. On the 141 sound chips I always found that some of the volume levels were a little unbalanced; the horn sound was too quiet, the flange squeal way too loud in relation to the prime mover. These decoders allow you to change the volume of any of the function triggered sounds seperately by altering the CV relevant to each function key. Each CV can be given a value of 0-255.
F0 CV571
F1 CV514
F2 CV517
F3 CV520
F4 CV523
F5 CV526
F6 CV529
F7 CV532
F8 CV535
F9 CV538
F10 CV541
F11 CV544
F12 CV547
F13 CV550
F14 CV553
F15 CV556
F16 CV559
F17 CV562
F18 CV565
F19 CV568
F20 CV674
F21 CV677
F22 CV680
F23 CV683
F24 CV686
F25 CV689
F26 CV692
F27 CV695
F28 CV698
Hope it's of some use, folks!
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Gob. Smacked.
Anything would be better than an old Ringfield but that is just lovely. Great solution, and a tidy little runner.
Yeah, it worked far better than I imagined! Might be useful for anyone re-motoring an old chassis for a Silverfox kit. I imagine it would work for the Lima pancake motor as well.
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You sure this is a model and not a sneaky Inchicore shot
Lovely work, VERY realistic.
Cheers, man!
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Absolutely stunning weathering job! What scale is it?
DCC decoder chips
in DCC, Electrics and Electronics
Posted
Never used Bachmann but I have to agree on the Lenz decoders. I just installed Lenz chips in a couple of old Athearn locos and they are running sweet as a nut, even with the crappy old Athearn motor!