Noel

Hi Dave. Thanks for feedback, I very nearly did buy the Ecos but I didn't like the large size of the twin control console (i.e. not for hand held walk around use), but it did seem to tick nearly every box I could think of except for direct smartphone/tablet interfaces. Reading the technical specs and manuals it really did look the biz. In the end I went for the 5amp NCE Pro Cab as a compromise. There was a delay in shipping it, and I very nearly had a change of heart and changed the order to the Ecos, but glad I didn't for now. What put me off was the insane price of the additional touch screen cabs (android 'Mobile Control II'), which would be better off as wireless cabs via apps on a Samsung, HTC, etc or iPhone/iPad. The more I learn about DCC the more I realise that the heart of the system is the decoder used and really ergonomic cabs, the control unit being the least important component, as the decoders and cabs do the smart work. With the growth in sound it seems CABS, many of which have very similar button layouts need a fundamental redesign to accommodate direct one key access to 20 functions. As a software bod, I find some of the NCE cab screen interface rather bizarre (e.g: when displaying function status, no cab controls work until you exit that display). I'll continue the partial rewire, and installation of decoders over the next year or two, and then if a decent smartphone interfaced DCC system has appeared on the market I may put the NCE on ebay and update. It's a pity ESU didn't make the twin cab smaller leaving the touch screen interface as an app on popular tablets (i.e. for system setup, decoder programming, routes, accessory control, etc). In my line of work I just have a low tolerance for poor software that is neither smart nor intuitive. Ah, everything is a compromise. Cheers Noel

I'm enjoying playing with and learning DCC which is an ongoing process. BUT I am mildly surprised how hideously dated and 'techie' decoder programming is in 2014. Who needs to know binary, or even decimal nowadays, surely by now all the mainstream DCC vendors would have as standard functionality with their basic systems, an elegant software interface to program any manufacturers decoder. Just stick WIFI in the control box and then any Android or iOS mobile device or smartphone could be used to configure and backup decoders in plain english, not numerics. The interface is so mid 1990s. I know this can be done with a kludgy solutions using a laptop and software like JMRI, or vendor specific programmers, but heck DCC is supposed to be a standard, so surely a touch screen colour interface to smart software using vendor libraries should be useable to programme any vendors decoder without the need for a daft PC in the mix (i.e. programme on console or via smartphone/tablet)? I find it bizarre in 2014 that most folk have to put up with decoder programming on two for four line mono LCD screens one value at a time - its stone age. I know ESU have made a decent stab at it, but thats out of reach of many and smart software interface should be standard now we live in the smartphone era. Forcing consumers to buy proprietary programming accessory hardware is a very yesteryear business model. Mini-rant over!

Fabulous models. Please spare my ignorance but what was the protruding box on the sides used for? Is it a vent, stove chimney, window, or other, and if windows for what purpose?

Do you know if such would be scale repo's of laminates or bredins or other?

Thanks guys that's great. I have the manual and reading it through again tonight. Will play with the decoder on Friday.

Do you mean drill a hole for sound purposes?

DCC installed with some provisional wiring. Basically I've feed it though my old DC block section panels and switch every section to ON, which in effect provides about 16 drop feeds. Got three DCC ready locos chipped, now to tackle some older steam locos with direct wiring. I went with NCE Pro Cab in the end. Will need to spend may a winters evening learning more about DCC, NCE and programming and fitting decoders. Anyway got three locos running simultaneously, two on upper level and one on the middle level. 141 hauling empty coal wagons, 073 inbound

For the benefit of any other 141/181 body removal virgins I see there is a speaker rack in there already.

OK no NCE Pro Cab users around for past 24hr, but . . . I've been wondering if I'm going about this the wrong way, should I be looking at reprogramming the decoder to remap functions above 9 (i.e. 10-19) to lower FN values (e.g. 5-9). I'm trying to get the MM 071 sound chip FN 18 & 19 on direct key access so need to map them to say FN 8 & 9? PS: does anybody know if the MM 071 sound decoder (i.e. LokSound V4.0) can be programmed to dim the cab light. It's a bit stark.

Not sure if this is what LJM was referring to but from memory when the 201s were first introduced their automatic 'fly by wire' control software was not ideally suited to the Irish climate and in the first year had reliablity issues. On some routes they may have even reverted back to 071s until the 201 software was changed. I remember chatting to a driver who explained the issue was highlighted by leaves on the rails, or severe ice, allowing wheel spin. I hope my memory is not failing me but I think he told me when this happened the 201s early fly by wire software sensed this and stopped drive to the wheels, whereas on the older GMs drivers had more manual control and knew how to keep the locos running. Resulting in false 'breakdown' events during the first year. If there are any CIE/IE drivers on here from that mid 1990s era they will be able to give a more accurate explanation of what the early 201 reliability problems were. LJM, is this what you were alluding to? There were some other mechanical reliability issues that had to be snagged out in early years.

Hi Guys. If there are any NCE Pro Cab users on here you may be able to point me on the right direction. Background: I'm new to this system, but so far it seems if I want to access decoder functions above the first ten (0-9), with the Pro Cab I have to use the 'option' button as a sort of shift key to access function 10-19. Unlike the Power Cab which uses the shift key. This is a awkward when trying to regularly use functions 18 & 19, too many button presses. Here's the question: With Pro Cab is it possible to reassign or map functions to other keys? For example so I could activate functions 18 or 19 by pressing only one key if I can map cab buttons to other functions?

Is there a show on down in Portlaoise on the same day? (i.e. Sun 14th Sept 2014)

I've a pair of Lima class 33s in CIE black and tan livery which I've had in storage probably for 20 or more years, possibly even 30 years (my memory is unsure when I bought them). Question is are there any bits I could install, modify or change to make them run more smoothly like modern models (i.e. all wheel pickup, smoother drive, slow speed and creep, etc)? Or should I just retire them to my 'nostalgia' collection, or even sell them? Lima sold them as CIE 001/C class look-a-likes, but the three windows on the Lima's look all wrong compared to the two large inset windows on real 001/C locos. Has anybody modified them with more modern Lima drive chassis, or drive bogies? Typo - Title should read 'PAIR of Lima ....'

Thanks for the heads up. I had got dates confused with a show in Cork.

Sublime - absolutely top class modelling. I love the subtle colouring and weathering.

Thanks that worked a real treat on 182. I used wooden ice cream sticks to pressure the sides through the railings. Yes I noticed that Seamus. Were the cab ends glued with some sort of flexiglue, or is there some other reason? Looking forward to putting some Belfast models sound chips in them.

Thanks guys. Hopefully some day I may be able to get a few more 141/181s. That's what I'll do next time. The handrails clip on and off ok, but the thin end that returns to the body base plate was glued on the B141 I got a few weeks ago.

Thanks used a block hammer, crowbar and stick of dynamite. Kidd'n. Got it off with some more force. I need a microscope to get the railings back on.

How in the name of all that is good about WD40 does one get the blasted body shell off a 141/181? I am trying to fit a 21pin decoder. I have done the following as per recommendations: Removed the side rails Removed the end cab Gently and not so gently squeezed the body sides but it seems almost glued on! I afraid of damaging the model if I use any more force. Are the pressure lugs clipped into the under frame, OR inside onto the metal weight? HELP! Some material I have read and studied, but no joy, it is stuck fast. It's a brand new MM 141 Black preserved B141. Mag piece: http://www.murphymodels.com/files/Class_141_Sound_DCC_MR130_058-061.pdf How to on MRF: http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17970 Service sheet: http://www.bachmann.co.uk/pdfs/mm_141_181.pdf

Hi bhoulihan I've used peco foam underlay under our layout (i.e. 'Old New Layout'). I has worked out well so far and I am a bit fastidious about smooth track joints and smooth running. I had planned when I had finished the scenic work in a few years (hopefully), to replace the underlay with cork and ballast, but I'm not so sure anymore. I may just fill the gaps between twin tracks with ballast the same colour as the foam and run it right up to the edges of the underlay. It means future maintenance will be easier as any dodgy points can just be lifted and the sound insulation of foam from baseboard vibration is very good. It's very much a matter of personal preference, there is no right or wrong. Cheers Noel

Tried both RailModeller and AnyRail on my MacBook (AnyRail on Windows 7 via VMware). Both good, but I just found AnyRail a lot easier to pickup once I understood the difference between layers and heights. Layers it seems is NOT about track levels, just layers of scenery that can be turned on and off. Height determines track levels. Specifying heights to each track element that is on a higher level is a PITA. Anyway nice simple software. I'm almost certainly going to stick with AnyRail as I can't spare the time to read the manual and learn other more powerful tools. If I didn't have VMware on my Mac I would have been ok with RailModeller though.

This is great info guys. Any idea which corridor compartment coaches might have been used on the Dublin Amiens Street to Galway line in the 1962-1970 era? Bredins, PR, or Laminates?

Harumph!!! So you didn't like my trackwork then last week? Will I rip it all up and relay 21mm then? (i.e. when I've won the lotto and can employ a team to make all custom the trackwork and points so that I will have time to run some trains before I'm 90) N gauge would enable a scale track plan for LJ!!!

Thanks for all that advice and suggestions guys. I hand cleaned the track last week with a coarse cloth bound around and old hardwood model aircraft sanding block, damped with spirits. It has done the job and only a few spots needed more than one rub. I only plan to use a CMX cleaning wagon once every few months for maintenance. In the old days I used to run the loco wheels upside down in a cradle with a mildly abrasive wheel scraper or ice cream stick with spirit damped cloth. I found if I didn't keep the wheels of locos and rolling stock clean, the track wasn't long collecting the dirt off the wheels. I run a vacuum cleaner with a small circular soft brush fitting over the track after cleaning in case any debris was generated from the cloth snagging on track pins, rail joints or points. Its a far cry from when I used to lay Hornby-Dublo tracks on my bedroom carpet as a child (a dust, dirt and hair magnet).

What a realistic looking scene. GMs whirring away. Nice.