Jump to content

GSR 800

Members
  • Posts

    1,533
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Posts posted by GSR 800

  1. On 2/27/2017 at 11:52 AM, jhb171achill said:

    You know there were two different types of rivets in J26 smokeboxes, Harry.

     

    One type were installed by fitters from Inchicore, others Ballyfermot.

    As in different engines would have different types of rivets, or the same engine would have different types?

     

  2.                        Back to Work 

    I've had quite a long break from modelling locomotives (nearly 2 years!) Mainly to focus on ships.

    I tend to lean one way or another, but never both at once. Now with a sufficient battlefleet to protect against. ..er....cheeky buggers....it's time to get back into the Kettles of CIE.

    Quite some time ago I purchased an N15 class locomotive with the intention of converting to 402

    IMG_0039-L.jpg.85673d33ed0c9b10ca67bf5d0b5d3967.jpg

    Being myself, I didn't start taking photos till I had most of the job done. Chassis were terrible on her, so something must be done about that.

    Nonetheless, off came the body

    R2582_1.jpg.2a8a94cbf48fd3423785320f681948fe.jpg

    One sees the obvious differences between the locomotives.

    First tackled was the Firebox. Round on the N15, it was a Belpaire type on the 400s. A piece of brass, bent to shape, along with some glue and filler was used.

    20180617_212430.thumb.jpg.535491f766fd1ef2a660c8f8d814f635.jpg

    The Firebox was filed slightly, to make the corners more rounded.

    Splashers were stolen off some poor old airfix kit, filed down, and fitted

    20180617_215143.thumb.jpg.7d59a77350a8129af7969472a0e2de17.jpg

    20180617_215153.thumb.jpg.0ed7b7cf6c63615538031a1b160feeba.jpg

    Then it was off to the paint shop, for a lick of green.

    20180617_231557.thumb.jpg.abf14cb9c6b33138bac2cd43952a9c5c.jpg

    Looking somewhat like a crazy idea Bullied would have, 402 will have to make do with the tender chassis she's lying on for now😋

     

    • Like 2
  3. 18 hours ago, Mayner said:

    Its been an enjoyable build everything fits together so well, my only reservation is the thickness of brass is a bit whippy for the inside bearing under frame parts, I may assemble the 1st with putside bearings and a hollow middle axle to go round curves.

    Same problem with verdigris with the Saphire 'no clean flux" on brass, dipping the model in boiling or hot water seems to do the trick, without the  need for detergent.

    She's a little gem John. Must get back to building myself...

  4. I have to say I agree with this entirely. The model world is for all - engineering perfection is for some, accurate appearance for others, smaller budget for others, absolute perfection in all regards for some of us who can afford it. This is an excellent forum where as long as I've been reading it everybody has happily bumbled along merrily together. There will be few products from any manufacturer which suits everyone's standards and budgets.

     

    Personally, I salute IFM for satisfying the market they do, also others for the different emphases they place on their projects. Anyone who enters what (read post above) is undoubtedly an extremely difficult commercial market is to be lauded. Leslie's wagons, Garfield's bubbles, and others here will all agree; not easy to produce.

     

    So - IFM - certainly, for some people but not all, but hats off for what they do.

     

    That's just my bit. Over'n'out.

     

    They should put Peacemaker under Founding Father

    Although then people might suspect that IRM has to turned into a Mafia of Railway Enthusiasts....

  5. I was asked recently for info on GSWR / GSR / CIE standard locomotive grey, in terms of how dark it was.

     

    I think I posted a picture many moons ago, and doubtless upside down, of a model my grandfather made while he was in Inchicore, and using actual paint. However, I can't find the picture anywhere - maybe someone else knows where it is. If it can't be found, I'll take another.

     

    Basically, it should not be "nearly black" - it should be just a shade darker than wagons. That's about all I can say without an example. In GSR times, the numberplate was all over grey too, usually (but not always) with the number and rim of plate picked out in pale yellow) - not a black background plate. In CIE times, same, or once the plate was removed an unlined pale yellow number and gold-lined "eau-de-nil" (Pale green, not yellow!) flying snail. Hope that answers it.

    I think I have it somewhere JB,I will search my archives..

  6. Very nicely done! I would never touch a ship kit with the fear of never actually finshing it, there are so many separate parts to paint.

     

    Nelson, a man of your talent, would put me to shame,should you build one.

    The painting was actually fairly simple, just slap on battleship grey, and wash the deck with a sort of teak color. I haven't gotten around to painting the boats or the AA guns yet, but I will get there. Eventually.

    image.jpeg

    And it is intentionally that grainy. I'm not THAT bad at taking photos. Jesus, put your pitchforks away:dig:

  7. [ATTACH=CONFIG]26528[/ATTACH]

    So far, have not found cracking to be a problem, Paul. The DAS is smeared on really thin [no more than 1mm thick], on a base of PVA, which helps it to stick and may well stop cracking too. However, as it dries overnight, it is easy to make any adjustments next day with the odd extra patch here and there.

    For random stone, I find leaving an uneven surface works well. For dressed stone, block and brickwork, I sand the surface smooth before starting scribing.

    Have just put DAS on the building that will go behind the loco shed. The three sides took less than two hours, including the window rebates. They need to be filed flat/square once the clay has dried.

    Looking good David!

    And that engine shed area..

    :drool:

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use