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NIRCLASS80

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Posts posted by NIRCLASS80

  1. No problem with the speaker in the one MM 121 I have purchased so far. 
     

    I have had a couple of faulty speakers in the past from various other manufacturers so it’s not a unique problem. 
    At the end of the day the more features and extras that a model has the more chance of a problem. 
    What I would say is the 121 is a nicely designed bit of kit. 

    • Like 2
  2. Just a little note to say that if anyone wants a chip remapped with functions on the F button they desire or a complete reblow please private message me and I will give you details of service provided. 
    All of my sounds can be seen in action on the Ballyercall thread under Irish Layouts. 

    • Like 3
  3. 8 minutes ago, DART8118 said:

    Thanks.  Don't have a Lokprogrammer and thought it might be something I could set with CVs on my controller.

    Sorry but I haven’t a clue what CV’s effect what as I have used a Lokprogrammer for years. 
    Does anyone think there would be a market for a decoder programming service?

    • Like 1
  4. 28 minutes ago, irishthump said:

    Great video. Do you only use the Drive Hold and Coast functions to drive the loco? What values do you program to Acceleration and Deceleration?

    The way I set up my locos I put the Independent Brake function on F3 and set deceleration to maximum (255). I only use Drive Hold if simulating starting a heavy train. I never use Coast as with the high Dec value you simple turn the throttle down to 0, let the train coast and stop it with the brake on F3. I find this is very realistic way to drive the loco.

    In normal usage I would just use F3 but I just wanted to show the coast option. 
    I set acceleration at 160 and deceleration at 120. 

    13 minutes ago, DART8118 said:

    Agreed, a great video.  Did you say you did something special to get the red lights both showing at cab and bonnet ends for parking?

    8118

     

     

    Just mapped the functions using the Lokprogrammer 

    • Like 2
  5. 21 minutes ago, murphaph said:

    Great to see the marker lights can be controlled independently. 

    20 minutes with a Lokprogrammer soon sorted the lights outs. All independent. 

    • Like 2
    • Informative 1
  6. 10 hours ago, jhb171achill said:

    Not really!

    You've GNR designs, which are - GNR.... and the NCC's "somersaults". Neither are like the standard British upper quads at all....

    Remember, the railways here were all built before the border was, so there's no "British / Irish" divide.

    Having said that, the whole Ballyercall looks mighty with either set of rolling stock.........

    I’m a late eighties early nineties modeller so I can get away with the signals!😂

    • Like 1
  7. 30 minutes ago, jhb171achill said:

    I very much like that idea. I have a fondness for Black 5s, and the standard British designs. I'm following the progress of the 3MT project over there in the Republic of Cummins with great interest - a perfect "new-build" branch engine. I am also interested in the "rail blue" era, which I recall from a few holidays in the Federation of Boris in 1970-4....  might gather a few blue things at some stage!

    Great Pictures, from Ballyercall-in-the-Wolds, County Somerset........!

    I suppose the signalling is the greatest problem but if you use your imagination that Ballyercall is just over the border in Northern Ireland UK standard signalling is ok with both sets of stock!😁

  8. The handrails shouldn’t be damaged if the model is handled correctly. 
     

    Lifting the model by the fuel tank is the proper way to handle. If we want finely detailed models we have to handle appropriately. 

    • Like 4
  9. 33 seconds into this video you get the classic Class 80 horn sound!  My home station for almost 40 years  

     

    • Like 1
  10. 43 minutes ago, irishthump said:

    Yes please! I've done the same with my locos but I'm always interested in any techniques I can steal!

    Ok here goes. Firstly one word of caution is that this worked ok for me on my layout with a minimum radius of 24inches. 
    Cut off coupling mount from the locomotive’s bogie. 
    Then take the valance in the detail pack and cut a small slot. 
    Then glue a NEM coupler pocket to the back of the valance in line with the slot. 
    Once the glue is dried fit the Kadee NEM style coupler. 
    Then fit to loco. I haven’t glued this to the loco and so far haven’t had any issues. 
    Hope the photos make this all clear. 
    Total time 30 minutes both ends. 

    6E059CA7-9EDE-48EA-AF74-7821D267793C.jpeg

    D4B40701-9D81-4843-8875-5E6027BC43F5.jpeg

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    89D2268E-7F49-44D2-AEF1-C74996151ED9.jpeg

    • Like 7
    • Informative 2
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