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Flying Scotsman 4472

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Something a little different for you guys here is a step by step guide.





The donor vehicle I'm using is an Oxford diecast Scania 144 with a 45' curtain side trailer






Start off by removing the printed writing. A cotton bud and some nail polish remover will do this












You should be left with a nice clean unit when your finished











Next strip down the cab by taking the screws from underneath








Mask off the grill on the Scania as the truck comes from the factory with a grey grill and most hauliers keep the grey grill as a status symbol







Give the cab a rub down with your glass fibre pen








When you have all that done time for some under coat









Strip the trailer down












I'm going to be making a 45' flat so file down the chassis to give you a smooth surface










45' flats are a few inches wider than their curtain side equivalent so turn the body upside down and draw around it to give you your flat trailer body








Finish of your body with plasticard sides etc









I finished of the truck with my air brush and some nice yellow paint and some IE decals I had lying around




























Your trucks not making you any money if she is empty so her first load is a load of white metal bogies on their way to the airbrush plant




Edited by Anthony
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Well after buying a Shapeways 201 several months ago I decided time had come to start the project. Now I knew there was going to be a lot of work in this kit but BOY was I in for a big surprise. Now I know I had a rant at Rich and some of the guys on here for having a go at the DC kits generator van recently but now I put my hands up and say I was wrong to do that. As Rich said its as easy to get it right as to get it wrong. But the Shapeways 201 is nothing only mistake after mistake and for the money well its just not worth it the price on this kit is far to much for what you get, and the amount of work you have to do to get a good looking loco (don't get me started on trying to get a smooth finish). Now guy's don't get me wrong this is not a personal attack at the designer or manufacturer but I paid my money for a kit that I thought was basically paint it and fit it to a class 66 chassis. But this couldn't be further from the truth. When you think of it all they had to do was take the body from a Lima 201 and make one or to changes to it to make it fit a class 66 and then make a cad drawing of it. So to show you how I got on and 6 bottles of valium later and a lot of grey hair here are the pics.






The side grills were to short I had to add etched brass grills that were the right size.








The body height is to short so fine strips of plastic card had to be added








There are no sway lines down the side of the loco so had to add my own







There is no roof grill just a flat piece of plastic where it should be so had to add an etched brass one







The exhaust is the wrong size and has no detail so I took the exhaust of the Bachmann class 66 and extended it




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The front of the cab had to be extended down as it was to short







There is no front supplied with the kit so had to make my own








Thank God for the Studio Scale Models etched brass detail kit. Need something to give this model some street cred








We all thought that they would get the front windows right but guess what they didn't and I had to make them bigger




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OK guy's some of the lads on here have been asking me how I built my last Mk3 EGV so I have decided to do a step by step picture guide with the one I am building at the minute now I'm not a professional builder so the way I do things might be different from those in the know so any help from the professional builders would be welcome



So here we go I will be using a Lima mk3 dinning coach and the kit is a Model Irish Railways brass sides and roof grills






The first thing we need to strip the coach down to do this we need to remove the roof first gently prise of the coach ends holding the gangways then using a small blade or something pointed and sharp gently prise out the top corner of the coach side. Now if you are just doing a straight forward coach repaint you need to be very careful so as not to scratch or scrap anything but we don't need to worry about that this time as you won't see any of that once the brass sides have been fitted.






Once you have prised out the corner place something flat in there to keep it out. Then repeat the process on the other side






Slide the flat objects gently towards the centre of the coach and as you do lift the roof off from that end. Once you have the roof of you can lift the seats out and this will give you access to the clips that hold th bottom of the coach on once this is done you will be just left with the bare shell of the coach body. You can see in the picture that I have been taking the roof of this one quite a lot from the scratches on the glass the more you do it the better you will get at it.






To make sure the brass sides sticks to the coach body you need to key them with sand paper (this picture is before and after)






To get the curve on the bottom of the over lays I use a pice of plastic tube. Tape it all the way along the bottom of the inside of the overlay then turn it face down a gently roll it forward about 1-2 cm The tape pulls the brass and with gentle pressure using the rolling pin action you will get the bottom to curve make sure your surface is soft and that there is no dirt that will dint or damage the front of the brass















You then need to trim off the window frames and sand the sides of the coach so they are flat after this measure up the brass overlays and mark where you need to cut the windows out the next few pictures will show you how I did this











The next step is to cut the windows out and then glue the sides to the body making sure everything lines up. To stick the overlays to the body I use Evo Stick Contact glue and just before it goes off I place the overlays on to the body this gives you time to make any adjustments then clamp it and leave it over night.

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A few more pictures on the progress of the mk3 EGV


The windows were cut out of the donor coach and the brass overlays were glued and clamped in place and left for 24 hours before any more work was carried out














The roof was then prepared for the etched brass details






Brass wire and some brass rod were used to make the loops and exhaust








The EGV was then given a coat of grey primer and trial fitted to the bottom of the coach ready for painting the brass hand rails and door handles will be added later





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With been that busy building and painting for people my own work has been put on the back burner for a while but I finally got around to building and painting my Hunslet from the group buy from MIR. I built 102 Falcon in the last livery she ran in. I didn't go to town on the weathering as I wanted to portray the model as if the RPSI had rebuilt her and got her running again when she ran in her last livery she didn't carry her name plates (falcon) but I added them back on because I feel if she was running today for the RPSI I think they would have put them back on











I decided to take a leaf out of Georges book and use a white back ground in my pictures I quite like the effect myself










































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Well after Ian from MIR sold of the last of the 071's he kept 2 for his own private collection I was lucky enough to get one of the kits of him for myself and also get the job of building the 2 of them. 072 would go back to Ian and 071 would find a new home with myself so here are some build pictures and some finished pics of the end of an era I got my first 071 class 20 years ago white metal running on an Athearn SD9 chassis and she still going strong the 2 locos I built are running on Proto 2000 SD9 chassis.





Some roof detail for you the white metal air horns that come with the kit were binned for brass ones also the white metal air intakes were binned for ones made from plasticard
















Just like the real thing lifting loops were added to the roof








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