New Layout Plans

[BosKonay]

The point is 'out of the box' -ie: point blades are routing the power?

 

Sounds like you need to reverse the polarity of the switch?

[BabyGM]

The point is 'out of the box' -ie: point blades are routing the power?

 

Sounds like you need to reverse the polarity of the switch?

 

So what would this involve?

Thanks

[BosKonay]

Basically swap the wires that feed the switch / motor around

[BosKonay]

Having watched the video, the loco is stalling as soon as it hits the points - how are you feeding power into the point itself?

[BabyGM]

The only power to the point is from the point motor

I installed 2 wires to the thin end of the point but it made no difference

Thanks for the help ,it is much appreciated

[BosKonay]

Can you give more detail?

 

You should be feeding power to the 'single' end of the point only.

 

Unless you've adjusted to point itself powering the frog separately will cause a short.

[BabyGM]

Can you give more detail?

 

You should be feeding power to the 'single' end of the point only.

 

Unless you've adjusted to point itself powering the frog separately will cause a short.

 

Yes, I wired the 'single end of the point , I've done no adjusting to the point

So is it probably just that I need to swap the motor/switch wires around

[BosKonay]

If you are feeding power into the point then make sure the frog isn't wired up?

 

Can you describe in details what's connected to what and how?

[BabyGM]

The frog is connected to the F terminal on the Seep PM1

The single end of the point is wired to the bus wires

All soldered

So if the frog isn't wired up do I need to put any power to it

[BosKonay]

Did you cut the connections under the point to isolate the frog?

 

Is your controller shorting?

[BabyGM]

By connections do you mean the metal strip under the point?

The controller is now shorting as soon as I turn the power on

[BosKonay]

Disconnect the frog and you should be ok.

 

 

Otherwise cut the connectors under the point that bridge the frog to the rails.

[BosKonay]

[BosKonay]

In the photo, you can see the longish wire coming to the bottom on the left - thats the frog feed.

 

The two small joiners on the right connect the frog to the rails, when you are letting the point blades power the frog.

 

If you are switching the frog - these need to be cut to isolate the frog, otherwise you create a short

[BosKonay]

Here is a modified point

 

 

You can see the two joiners have been cut, and a link soldered in, to connect the stock and closure rails.

 

This method ensures that the closure rails are always powered by the connected stock rail and the frog polarity is then set correctly by the switch.

This ensures that the power doesn't have to worry about the point blades being clean, etc, and the point should give many many years of trouble free service (you can even fully paint and weather the point blades' sides)

[Dave]

Here is a modified point

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5822[/ATTACH]

 

You can see the two joiners have been cut, and a link soldered in, to connect the stock and closure rails.

 

This method ensures that the closure rails are always powered by the connected stock rail and the frog polarity is then set correctly by the switch.

This ensures that the power doesn't have to worry about the point blades being clean, etc, and the point should give many many years of trouble free service (you can even fully paint and weather the point blades' sides)

 

Well explained! Ill be doing that soon to mine. I have 20 points to modify

[BabyGM]

Thanks a million for all the help hopefully I'll be able to run a full loop by this evening

[BabyGM]

I've decided that after about 8 months of the layout moving nowhere it is time to dismantle it, because even if I got the point motors to work there are too many flaws in the track laying for trains to operate properly

So to substitute the old layout I am going to build a small 6 by 3 layout for exhibitions with less complicated wiring

I'll start building the layout as soon as funds rise high enough to get track and scenery

I will start a new thread to facilitate the new layout

[Dave]

That's a pity BabyGM, its always a pain ripping up a layout and starting again. Something I'm about to do. Best of luck with the next one:tumbsup:

[BabyGM]

Thanks Dave

I'd just like to add thanks to everyone that helped me with all the problems that occurred throughout the build

[Dave]

No worries, have a special on baseboards till the end of May, 20% off if your looking for a 6' x 4' it would normally be €220 with legs special offer would be €176

[Guest hidden-agenda]

Good to see your planning another lay out and don't throw anything out keep it I case you need it even if you think its broke (might be fixable ). The experience you have gained will stand you well in the next job.

[BabyGM]

Thanks lads I can't wait to get started on the new layout I'd like to have it principally steam and easier to move than the old one as I'd like to bring it to an exhibition

[David Holman]

While I haven't read all the comments, for what it is worth I would certainly suggest reading up on baseboards and layout design in general. Iain Rice's books are all excellent, but 'Finescale in Small Spaces' goes into a lot of detail about planning, baseboards etc. Doing a small layout and treating it as gaining experience is far better than launching into something too big and finding it doesn't work out. Terminus - fiddle yard, or even just a small diorama can be just as satisfying, while a small project can be finished quickly too and could even be planned to be part of a larger project later on. Check out my current project - though 7mm scale, it is only 12 feet long, with a 4 foot fiddle yard, about 9 feet in total in 4mm scale.