Dave Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 If your soldering to the track the best method is use a Dremel and grind the underside of the track to be soldered, then tin the track and solder the wire on. This will ensure a good connection to the track. This is what a good soldered joint should look like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 What soldering issue are you having? It's just that the smaller wire won't solder to the larger bus wire even though: Both area's have been stripped of insulation, I'm using flux , and there is solder on the soldering iron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BosKonay Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Lovely work Dave I use a small file on the underside of the rail to rough it up, then tin it with a drop of solder. I then apply the wire, also tinned and simply melt the solder on both wire and rail. Two seconds then hold in place for three seconds and done. You should get a lovely, clean , shiny join (it does take practice though, my first few attempts had to end up in the bin ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BosKonay Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 It's just that the smaller wire won't solder to the larger bus wire even though:Both area's have been stripped of insulation, I'm using flux , and there is solder on the soldering iron Make sure you tin both wires well first - heat the big wire and melt plenty of solder into it. For joining bus to droppers, I use solder tags - like these http://www.maplin.co.uk/solder-tags-29815 They are pre-tinned and make life a lot simpler for joining cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 If your soldering to the track the best method is use a Dremel and grind the underside of the track to be soldered, then tin the track and solder the wire on. This will ensure a good connection to the track. This is what a good soldered joint should look like.[ATTACH=CONFIG]2215[/ATTACH] Hi Dave It's not that that I'm having a problem with, though it's probably better than my method of soldering the wire to the outside of the rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 Make sure you tin both wires well first - heat the big wire and melt plenty of solder into it. For joining bus to droppers, I use solder tags - like these http://www.maplin.co.uk/solder-tags-29815 They are pre-tinned and make life a lot simpler for joining cables. Excellent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 You shouldn't need flux when soldering cables together, most soldering jobs won't need it unless its big items to be soldered. The trick to soldering cables is plenty of heat to the joint, if you apply the solder to the cable and not the iron it should flow freely into the cables when its hot enough. I'll do a video on it tomorrow if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 You shouldn't need flux when soldering cables together, most soldering jobs won't need it unless its big items to be soldered. The trick to soldering cables is plenty of heat to the joint, if you apply the solder to the cable and not the iron it should flow freely into the cables when its hot enough.I'll do a video on it tomorrow if you like. Awesome! I'll give another crack at it after Dun Laoghaire tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Any problems let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 Any problems let me know. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 Today I managed to get a train running on the layout after taking Dave and Boskonays advice Hopefully I'll do the rest tomorrow and get a video out of it And once thats done I can start on point motors !(sarcastic YAY!!) I also got some ballast at the show today for the layout once the wiring is done and a decoder to wire to one of my Athearn SD9's as practice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BosKonay Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Well done!!! If you are running DCC, I'd highly recommend the cobalt digital motors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 Well done!!! If you are running DCC, I'd highly recommend the cobalt digital motors! Great I will look into prices Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Where's the pics!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 http://s1096.photobucket.com/albums/g329/brianwalshmk3/?action=view¤t=86F723FD-AF1B-454D-B09A-409EB7A9126B-1934-000002D25F50F10C.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BosKonay Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 There's nothing as rewarding as seeing a loco powered up on track you've just laid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Looking good:tumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRich Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 There's nothing as rewarding as seeing a loco powered up on track you've just laid You're spot on there Stephen. Baby GM's layout is really taking shape and looking good. Rich, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishthump Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Great I will look into prices Are you planning to operate the points via DCC as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 Yep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishthump Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Yep I opted not to control my points from my DCC controller after some research on other forums, mine are run from a control panel with toggle switches. For one thing it's a lot cheaper and if the layout shuts down due to a short I still have control of the points. I think Anto also has the same approach on his layout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 I opted not to control my points from my DCC controller after some research on other forums, mine are run from a control panel with toggle switches. For one thing it's a lot cheaper and if the layout shuts down due to a short I still have control of the points.I think Anto also has the same approach on his layout. Oh:o, I thought you ment by a control panel so no I wont be operating points via DCC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying Scotsman 4472 Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I opted not to control my points from my DCC controller after some research on other forums, mine are run from a control panel with toggle switches. For one thing it's a lot cheaper and if the layout shuts down due to a short I still have control of the points.I think Anto also has the same approach on his layout. Yep have to agree its the best way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hidden-agenda Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Taking shape nicely Brian but for the love of god get a perspex barrier around the edge or you will suffer a hefty loss if you get a derailment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sulzer201 Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Have to agree strongly with hidden-agenda, the layout is looking fab with loads of potential but valuable rolling stock will have to be protected - curves and point-work close to edges and I know from bitter experience how easy and often derailments can occur with costly results. Great layout taking shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirley Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Have to agree strongly with hidden-agenda, the layout is looking fab with loads of potential but valuable rolling stock will have to be protected - curves and point-work close to edges and I know from bitter experience how easy and often derailments can occur with costly results. Great layout taking shape. O so true. While testing new track work, I had the sickening experience of seeing my Hunslet instead of going straight on, turning right on points and dropped to the level below. The front coupling and the buffer beam took most of the damage and while I was able to repair it the model will carry the scars. It has made me double check all points before test runs and will include safety edges as soon as the construction allows it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BosKonay Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 I also have a banged up hornby 040 I use for testing - it's already carrying lots of battle wounds, and with the short wheel base its an ideal test loco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 I use a cheap second hand Hornby class 08 for testing. Bought it on ebay for €20! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the advice guys On my old layout one of my 141's had a nice 228 scale feet of a drop onto the floor when it derailed I won't be taking the chance this time Edited August 22, 2012 by BabyGM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Also the latest arrival courtesy of GarfieldsGhost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garfield Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Also the latest arrival courtesy of GarfieldsGhost Looking forward to watching your progress with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunslet 102 Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Great work on the layout BabyGM,the start of any layout is always a pain,but worth it in the end.It is always good to get a loco running on what you have been working on.Just to back up what the other guys have said,be careful with the track close to the baseboard edge as my hand once knocked a 3 car 80 class railcar set of the layout with dire results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyGM Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 Today I finally finished the first part of wiring and generally cleaned the layout I also added a maintenance depot and RPSI south-eastern base To the left is the maintenance depot and to the right is the RPSI south-eastern base Much tidier than the photo a few pages back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broithe Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Do things run OK over that point at the right-hand side in the second picture? The one that sends the outer track over the crossing. It looks a little bit 'steppy' at the join in the baseboard, where the point meets the cross-over. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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