CIE/GSR 650 Class 2-4-0 MGWR Ks

[Colin R]

Solder might be a problem but if you can remove the body from the chassis so the motor etc doesn't get wet, place it in a small tank (size of the engine is big enough) with some soda crystals and put the body shell on top of some kitchen foil, fill with warm water to cover the body shell so crystal will dissolve in the water over night and it will come up nice and clean, do wash it all off before painting if you can remember use disposalable gloves when you take it out of the tank as your fingers will mark the shell again, hope this tip helps.

This method can be used on any metal kit before painting.

As for removing solder, I haven’t worked out a way to clean this up just yet, it is still a work in progress.

If you can find one there used to be an electronic de-solderer which heats up the solder and you then use the sucker stage to remover it, however I have not found anyone who makes them, I should have keep mine from when I was at the college as they where giving them away at the time.     

 

Colin

[DiveController]

That's very nice indeed John and it prompted me to review the K/Ks class in my 'Locomotives of the GSR' which is (IMO) a superb book and essential reading for anyone with even  vague interest in steam locomotives, their operation, classes etc.

[KMCE]

On 11/10/2019 at 2:12 PM, Colin R said:

As for removing solder, I haven’t worked out a way to clean this up just yet, it is still a work in progress.

I have found that using de-soldering braid similar to this works rather well:

https://www.circuitspecialists.eu/mg-chemicals/solder-wire-wick-and-flux/?mgproducttype=77 

By placing the braid over the solder blob, touch the iron to the braid & swipe away.   Some people recommend using flux, but I have found it operates fine without the flux.

It leaves a very fine layer of solder similar to tinning, but much finer.  A quick rub down with a brass brush smoothes everything out.

Obviously the braid needs to be fresh each time as it quickly soaks up the solder, so you just cut away to a fresh section each time you use it.

 

No files used, just the braid & brush.

 

Worth a try.

 

Ken

 

[Mayner]

The solder visible around the axleboxes and springs is low melting point (100°C) which has a lower surface tension than the (179° & 145°) solders used in assembling the kits. This solder tends to flow into the joint and around the surrounding area when melted rather than form a fillet similar to the 145° solder which I use for general assembly and detailing.

This solder requires very little cleaning up any excess solder blobs or meniscus around the spring hangers can be cleaned up with a scraper and a fiber glass brush, the remaining solder film on the frames provides a superior key for painting than clean brass.

The locos break down into a number of bolt together sub assemblies which can be dismantled for painting, the Ks/650 breaks down into loco and tender chassis, break gear, loco running board and cab, smokebox, boiler/firebox, cab interior, tender frames and footplate, tender superstucture and tender tank top, plus wheel sets.

I usually lightly abrade the model with fine wet and dry paper and then de-grease in an acetone bath before priming with an etch primer, the critical thing is ensuring that humidity in the workshop is low and temperature is adequate before during and following painting.