problem point

[Peter]

This point is causing me trouble on my DC layout. 

The bottom part is the mainline, the top of it goes to a siding. I have an insulated joiner to prevent a short if switching to the siding. I am relying on the switch blades to carry power through to the rest of the point. Trains stall between the insulated rail joiner and the switch blade on the main line. I guess it has become dirty over time. It did work flawlessly before, even after ballasting. 

First of all, what is the best way to clean in between the switch blades and stock rail? Secondly, what would be a more permanent solution to power the point? Could I just drop a wire down from the V and put it on a switch that goes between both bus wires, or am I better using a point motor which has a polarity switch? I'd like to avoid ripping out the point.

Thank you. 

 

Edited April 4, 2020 by Peter

[murrayec]

@Peter

Use a glass-fibre pen to clean up the blades n rails, also use a bit of track cleaning liquid. 

You could use a surface mounted points motor with a mini switch on the outside of the motor, all you have to do is drills holes through the board to wire it up so you don't have to lift the points, then disguise it with a bit of 'Shrubbery'.....

Eoin

 

 

 

 

[Broithe]

Some points have "wipers" that are meant to contact the underside of the rail, to enhance the likelihood of a decent connection (although I don't see them in your picture).

They are often not formed correctly and a small tweak will greatly improve matters, if they are there.

[Sven-E]

9 hours ago, Peter said:

Secondly, what would be a more permanent solution to power the point? Could I just drop a wire down from the V and put it on a switch that goes between both bus wires, or am I better using a point motor which has a polarity switch? I'd like to avoid ripping out the point.

Much better to connect the wire from the frog (the V) to the point motor polarity switch. This guarantees that the polarity is switched correctly.

If you use a separate switch and your point blades start to work again you run a risk of short-circuit if you don't flick the switch exactly as the point changes.

[Mayner]

I usually used a micro switch in conjunction with a Seep or Peco point motor to change polarity/achieve reliable power pick up with Peco N gauge points as I found blade contact to be un-reliable.

 

[Peter]

Thank you all for the replies. I appreciate it.

I will start with the fibreglass pen and see how that works. Failing that the next step is getting a point motor with a polarity switch. 

Cheers