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murrayec last won the day on March 14

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About murrayec

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  1. @jhb171achill It's generally done with paint, you may be referring to a guy that did an 08 on the Gauge O Guild fb site? if it is that one- it was all done with paint, he painted the body with white undercoat, then highlighted stuff with black and brown, then he painted the blue in a few lighter shades than if new! then he highlighted again, painted a lighter blue again and then used weathering wash. If the green Woolwiches are lined your best option is just to weather on top, otherwise if you try to fade the paint the lining will be lost! maybe you don't mind that- leave the model in the sunlight and over time it should fade- do remember to rotate it! and not to hot a place in the sun- it might melt! Eoin
  2. From that experience we have decided to do just posts on the Greystones layout, it's a pity but will cause less fustration Eoin
  3. @warb I built 20ft of double track cantenary for a chap, a post about every foot or so, we installed phosphorous bronze overhead wires!! not one has survived- track cleaning, re-tracking derailed stock and people not noticing the wires was the cause. The layout just has the posts now..... Eoin
  4. @Galteemore the Princess is also on my list! the drawings for it are nearly complete, but the Vauxhall will be before it....... Eoin
  5. I did a bit on the Hibernia chassis over last weekend. The inner frames were modified to take Slaters cast brass horn-blocks and bearings- as mentioned above the outer frames when on will obstruct the axles so now axles and bearings will drop out the bottom! The frame spacers were folded and soldered, the spacers that go around the motor are made up of two .5mm brass parts sweat soldered together. After checking all tabs & slots fit, a slight bit of fettling was required to get things square, I soldered the main frames together with 180deg solder. Next the horn-blocks were soldered in using my home spun chassis jig to hold them in place tight against the frames. I took a few measurements off the jig to see that all was square and then soldered them in, careful not to solder the keepers or bearings in! All done, and then the wheels were put on to see how level we are- spot on! Preparing the outer frames with the out-riggers! soldered on, again some slight adjustments required but tabs n slots are a great way to keep it all square and to hold the parts together while soldering. One side frame on, the flat plate is the cylinder mount. Done for now. Wheels back on. Eoin
  6. I'm sure when the crew are doing the paint touch up they will take this into consideration- the plates are held on by 'Stixall' a silicone type glue n sealer so they can be removed if painting changes are required. Eoin
  7. I forgot the plates;- Their on now..... Eoin
  8. @Galteemore I used .5mm nickel silver sheet and .6mm NS wire for the hangers and rodding. @Georgeconna Yes, not all had these going by the photos I found, earlier photos of the class don't have them so I assume they re-used other buffers later which needed to be extended??.... Eoin
  9. Here is another scratch built model by Mr B Kelly, a D19, one of my faves! it's in my workshop for coupling rods, break gear, electrical pick-ups and a few other bits. As it came. After measuring up, researching a few photos and doing the drawings parts were cut out of .5mm nickel silver- wheel weights, coupling rods, break gear.... The chassis was a little fat, the wheels were locking up when assembled and one axle was slightly out of line, only noticed when fitting the coupling rods- one side would go on but not the other! So that set of bearings needed a bit of adjustment and the other set had a .9mm skim taken off the faces. Some of the chassis screws were cheese head so I replaced them with counter-sunk and holes for the break hanger spigots were drilled in the frames. Jigged up to solder the bearings back in. Loco break gear coming together, these locos had double hangers with the shoe sandwiched between. The shoes are cut from Tufnol and brass .7mm pins were used to assemble. Breaks on. Breaks off. The assembly can be sprung off for painting and removing the wheels. After fitting the coupling rods I noticed they fouled the underside of running board!, so a few 1.2mm brass spacers were prepared and soldered onto the top of the frames. I also made a motor strap to lift the motor up at an angle and save space in the cab. The bogie truck was then tackled- needing a pivot, spring and a bit of side play, also going to get electrical pick-ups installed. A deep hex nut was soldered to the underside to take the pivot bar on top and the pick-up plate on the underside. I also replace the frame spacer screws from cheese-head to counter-sunk and installed a plastic washer behind each wheel. A pivot bar was turned up on the lathe and tapped 8BA to fit into that hex nut in the bogie frame. The pick-ups were then installed on the underside. This is the full pick-up system, diver wheels & bogie. A sideways slot was milled in the frame spacer to give the bogie side-play and a .5mm brass angle plate was soldered onto the bogie front to stop full rotation. The frames also required some mod at the rear wheel arch to allow clearance. Up and running. The tender was next, break hanger holes drilled, and at front- these are parts for the draw bar, the brass to be soldered between the frames and the plastic strip drilled as the draw bar with the little brass bush to allow it pivot on the back of the loco. Breaks going on and draw bar assembly installed. Breaks done. The tender had its mounting bolts broken off, so some repair needed, also spacers are needed to level the tender with the loco- using two blocks of hardwood! Done. Draw bar drilled and installed, this is the body mounting screw, the front end is held with a brass tong soldered to the back of the buffer beam. And its done, going back to its crew for a bit of painting and maybe some coal! Eoin
  10. 3 robots patrolling the perimeter!! Eoin
  11. When were were kids there was a farmer chap in Monkstown down the lane between St Patrick's church and the post office, Michael (johnny) Lawlor was his name, he farmed a few cows n pigs and the place stank to high heaven and so did he. He, his horse (which never had a wash) and a single axle deep cart were a regular feature on the local roads delivering cow-shi to the local ladies who did roses and used his product as fertiliser, he also collected kitchen waste from the ladies for feeding the pigs. Twice in my early teens I welded broken struts to the axle on his cart, the stink I can still remember. When the jobs were done his offer of payment was in cow-shi which I politely passed on to our neighbour who was one of the ladies that did roses. As far as I know he farmed there into the early 80s, the farm is now a town-house development called Alma Park and the area smells a lot better. The series of documentaries by David Shaw Smith 'Hands' is an incredible archive on this subject and many other old time subjects throughout the country;- Eoin
  12. I can just see you now- sitting around the billy can slurping the tae and swapping Tufnol jokes🤣 those were the days....... Eoin
  13. Just noticed when looking over this thread, after a long time, I describe the material for the break shoes as 'Delrin' it's not! it's Tufnol, a great material for the modeller. Made from wood/paper, it has great structural qualities, easy to be worked and can be machined. Eoin
  14. murrayec

    Train & Model Fair

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