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murrayec last won the day on May 28

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  1. KMCE has scratch built the armoured tank loco and the full train in 4mm 21mm gauge;- https://irishrailwaymodeller.com/topic/7108-kmces-workbench/page/3/#elControls_125194_menu One could be lucky to see this in the real if he comes to the Train & Model fair tomorrow?? Eoin
  2. After getting the replacement wheels I decided to finish off the chassis bits before doing the gearbox & motor! The right wheels this time, I got them from Alan Gibson in the end- after weeks of telephoning and just getting the answering machine..... The crankpin BA screws were installed, all was assembled and wheels quartered to broach the coupling rods for free running. In the foreground is the brake parts, connecting rods & wheel weights all cleaned up, holes sized and ready for folding/soldering. Connecting rods and brake shoes folded/soldered, yet to be cleaned up. These are the break hanger brackets being folded up. Their threaded onto the .5mm wire pins through the chassis for hanging the brakes off. Now to solder them on to the chassis. The rear brake frame bracket are fitted onto a .9mm brass wire through the chassis brackets, I left the brackets free on the rod to be soldered when the brake pull rods are on for positioning. .5mm wire pins soldered through the chassis frames with the little spacer brackets threaded on and soldered. Next the shoes, pull rods and beams were joy rigged in place and soldered up- very fiddly as one wants no contact between the shoes n wheels which will cause a electrical short. Those rear brackets are now soldered to the .9mm brass pin. The back end of the pull rods and the top of the shoe hangers are not soldered so that the assembly can be removed. And removed. Wheel weights being epoxied on. The connecting rods were cleaned up and the crankpin end generously broached as these will be at quite an angle out to the crosshead. Wheels back on and time to assemble the gear. Assembled. The connecting rods are at a crazy angle, causing binding on the crankpin bearing and the coupling rod, the bearing is not long enough, which also needs a washer and a bit of free space for this angle. I'll make up a bearing to suit. Eoin
  3. Not really stuff the traders carry! ask wrennie on this forum he may be able to help!! @WRENNEIRE Eoin
  4. @Georgeconna Patios! - on the 'bright side' their great for all sorts of projects! wood work and metal work which is to messy or to big for in the workshop.... every modeller should have one! I hope that helps? Eoin
  5. Time to fit the coupling rods and set up the chassis so that final dimensions can be set for the drive rods and crossheads to be made. First though, as mentioned above the chassis is a bit fat and the wheels lock on the axle bearings when bolted up! So a 1mm shaving was taken off the face of all the bearings. Bearings faced and then a set of axle jigs was turned up from 1/8'' aluminium rod to set the bearing centres while soldering them into the frames. Just about ready to solder them in and I noticed the back bearings were sitting a bit low which held the centre wheels about 1.2mm above track level! So a slight adjustment of the frames bearing holes was done on the mill. Adjustments done and the bearings jigged up with the coupling rods, which sat beautifully level for soldering. Next was to set up the centre drive wheel crankpins for the coupling and drive rod thickness at around 15mm- this is longer than what is available! Slaters do extended crankpins which will work for the other wheel setups, but the 800 has huge lumps of metal here and I'm kinda sticking to scale! So some extra long crankpins need to be machined and to do this we need two tools- a chuck tool with an 8BA threaded hole and a tailstock tool to support the end of the crankpin 10BA shank which equates to a bar with a 1.65mm hole in it to be held in the tailstock chuck- on the left is the chuck tool and on the right the tailstock tool machined from 6mm MS bar stock. Demo of the Slaters crankpin screwed into the chuck tool. And now the 10BA shank in the tailstock tool. The 6mm bar stock parts cut to length and ready to be machined, thats a Slaters long crankpin below the bits. Eoin.
  6. A few photos of the model just before the crew calls to collect it;- Finished. Eoin
  7. Impossible to get small size brass drill bits now, and even more impossible to make them yourself under .6mm, it's just to small to focus on even with magnifiers!! Though I did get a book 'Miniature Injectors Inside and Out' by D.A.G. Brown by TEE publishing, in which Mr Brown's last chapter 'Sharpening Small Drill Bits' discusses the difficulty and supplies drawings for a jig to do the job on a diamond lap - I bought the lap but not made the jig yet!! Eoin
  8. If one is using HSS drill bits from the 'Microbox' that Expo and craft shops sell - the small bits are as blunt as the chuck end! Expo do replacement drill bits in packs of 10 for the small sizes and these are sharp. The tungsten carbide bits are for high speed drilling and can only be used in pillar drills or CNC machines, as said above hand use is a no, hand use is to slow and snags causing side force will break them, these work best with a 'peck' drilling action only and not constant force drilling. Candle wax- preferably paraffin wax candles is the best lube for all materials, I find. Eoin
  9. until
  10. This months Train & Model Fair date;-
  11. Some weathering done with tips from Martyn's Book and a few of my own..... Eoin
  12. KMCE will be visiting the Fair this Sunday with his fabulous 3D printed wagons as featured on his Workbench thread, don't miss having a look at these...... https://irishrailwaymodeller.com/topic/7108-kmces-workbench/page/5/#elControls_157055_menu Looking forward to seeing these and you all that venture out on Sunday. Eoin
  13. Amazing Ken, I cant wait to do my O ones, but will have to as not enough time- I got the printer in March and still haven't used it!! Eoin
  14. @declan64 By the special agreement the North is kind of still in the EU, so VAT is charged when selling & buying across the Irish/North border;- https://www.revenue.ie/en/customs-traders-and-agents/brexit/information-for-businesses-trading-with-ni/vat-trade-with-ni-after-transition/index.aspx It's down to ebay to ensure VAT is charged if the seller is not registered for VAT, it's also down to ebay to return the VAT charges to Irish Revenue or do VAT offset in their returns...... Eoin
  15. Yes the Guy Williams book is a must have reference for building loco models, as well as Mr Rice's book on building OO chassis and etch kits.... Eoin
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