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murrayec last won the day on September 18

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  1. @Westcorkrailway Unfortunately Silver Fox use Impact adhesive (not sure on this model) to stick bodies to the chassis- the adhesive does let go after sticking cocktail sticks in and along the join, gradually mind you! give the glue some time to expand. If you do get it open show some photos and we may be able to help....... Eoin
  2. It was built by a chap in the South Dublin Model Railway Club back in the 80's to promote the coming of the Dart, it was recently restored by the Club and exhibited at the last Blackrock Model Railway Show;-
  3. @islandbridgejct here is what your looking for;- Eoin.
  4. Detail parts going onto the boiler; Washout covers being soldered onto the firebox, clamped with a Dinky clip over the marking holes then soldered on the inside with the solder wicking through the hole to fix the part. The clip has odd legs so that it doesn't get in the way for soldering. Boiler bands being prepared with a coat of solder before wrapping them around the boiler. End soldered on and the wrapping commences using a stick to hold the band while the solder iron is applied, first tacked in a few places around the band and then soldered throughout. First band done. The middle band was done the same way using the previously scribed lines to line it up. The smokebox band is larger with a moulded rebate, when it's on a.... .... .5mm brass wire is wrapped over and soldered on top of the band up against the smokebox to add further moulding. Bands done. And cleaned up with scratch brushes. Sizing up the boiler handrails and knobs, .4mm brass wire is being used here as the handrails will be chemical blackened on completion. Knobs are soldered on the inside with one being difficult- the front one is right up against the smokebox front which is hard to get the soldering iron in at, but I do have a cranked tip for the iron which helps. Rails on, and the running plate front chassis frames where soldered to the plate after a small bit of filling at the back to ease the fit against the smokebox sides. Eoin.
  5. @Westcorkrailway As George says if they are waterslide type use warm water only- if printed on a transparent carrier sheet cut each decal out of the sheet in a square or around the decal, if they are printed on the paper carrier sheet only, cut them out on a square of the paper carrier. Immerse in water for 30-60 secs or until you can slide them on the paper carrier, leave them on the paper carrier slightly slid off and holding the paper carrier with a tweezers to transfer it to the model and slide the decal off the paper carrier onto the model. As Galteemore suggests you can also use Microsol solution- but be careful the solution can soften the decal if left for to long and it may go out of shape! Use a cotton bud to squeeze the water out from under the decal, dabbing or rolling the bud on edge, working out from centre of the decal to its edge, this removes water and air from underneath- do not rub the bud across the decal cause the decal will move or tare. Some waterslide decals benefit from a coat of varnish or lacquer (not water based) to protect the ink before you immerse them in water- nothing worse than the decal ink coming off on the bud! Use Microsol later after the decal has dried on the model, this will help it to stick down better, and again using a bud as described above. If the decals are not lacquered this process can destroy them. One other thing to consider- they may be rub off decals?? like the way Letraset works! Eoin
  6. Hi Colin, Arceurotrade do a mill but it's quite expensive! I have an Optimum BF 20 Vario mill/drill, which is perfect for model stuff and small fabrication jobs. Again all the main tool suppliers do this machine and it's a lot more economical than Arc. I'm sure there is an agent for Optimum in the UK? Here is a link to a comparable machine and others to select from on this site, these guys do a mini lathe also;- https://www.warco.co.uk/milling-machines/303103-wm-12-small-engineering-metalworking-milling-machine.html Eoin
  7. Yes, Cab 1 is at the radiator end. Eoin
  8. It's a 'Mini Lathe' CL300M 180mm swing, 300mm between centres, by Clarke, this type/size of lathe is available from all the main machine tool suppliers. Arceurotrade.co.uk do a version SC3 which comes with a number of upgrades, like I have done to mine, as standard if your thinking of investing;- https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathes/SIEG-C3-SC2-SC3-Mini-Lathes/SIEG-SC2-SC3-HiTorque-Mini-Lathe-Belt-Drive-with-Brushless-Motor A standard Mini Lathe costs less than the SC3 but will not have modifications done- which you can do yourself. I have done; Taper bearing headstock upgrade. Pinned and added lock screws to all gibs. Carriage lock. Added oilers to the leadscrew. Added a cover to protect the leadscrew from swarf. Changed the standard tool post to a quick change post. Changed the plastic handwheels to cast iron type. Added and made a huge amount of tooling, too numerous to list here- the best accessory for the model building we do is a set of collet chucks- ER25 has collets from 1mm to 16mm if you buy a full set, there are also imperial collets. Hope that helps Eoin
  9. Motor, gearbox, brakes and pickup boards being made & installed;- Gearbox holes being sized for the axle bearings. Unit soldered with motor attached. Brake shoes being cut from 1.3mm pcb board, the copper cladding was first milled off and then the shoes cut. Pickup boards being cut from .7mm pcb board. Brake rods & hangers cut from .3mm brass sheet. Brake shoes being fixed to hangers with .5mm brass rivets. .5mm brass wire spiggots to hang the brake hangers from are soldered into the frames with a 2mm long brass tube to hold the hangers in position out from the frames. Brake rodding being soldered up. Soldered. Finally shoes on, the assembly is set up so that it can be removed for painting. There is not much free space to get the pickup wires out to the wheels with the rods in the way.... but I think I have a plan! Pickup boards screwed onto the frame spacers with 10BA bolts. More later..... Eoin
  10. More running plate, boiler and cab assembly;- Running plate, boiler bands, splasher parts removed from the fret and cusp removed. Marking out the centre boiler band position (in the middle) on the boiler using the height gauge to scribe lines to aid soldering the band on vertically. Bending up the splasher tops and test fitting to the running plate, the tops are handed- the left side has etched marks for fixing the brake rod mount, and the outer edge of the tops have an etch rebate to fit over the splasher face. I set about fixing the rear body captive nut- as mentioned above the bolt in the chassis is not in line with this nut and the running plate would not sit down on the chassis. The scribed mark is where the nut n hole should be, so the nut was de-soldered, the hole dragged back to centre on the line with a file and the nut soldered on again in the correct position. It sits down now. Just about ready to solder the cab to the running plate but decided to check the fitting of the cab footplate and backhead first to make sure all is OK, as if adjustments are needed it would be easier to work on it separate from the running plate. The parts are cut from the fret, cusp removed and the footplate folded up. For 16mm gauge the backhead needs adjustment to fit into the footplate well, this is marked out on the part and the bits are cut off with a craft knife by scribing along the edge of a steel ruler a few times. Trimmed. That bit out front is a support bracket that will be soldered onto the rear of the backhead above the coal hole, it's ends just sit on the cab splasher tops so that this assembly can be removed. It's held in with a 10BA captive nut and bolt through the running plate- that's what the second hole is for on the running plate beside the chassis mounting, see photo above. Test fitted in cab after some adjustment. The cab and the splashers were then soldered onto the running plate, all soldering is done on the inside, but needs a bit of a clean up because the solder wicked through to the outside- later! Setting up to sweat solder the parts which make up the front chassis frames on the running plate, each frame has 3 parts to them, they are lightly face soldered first, then clamped in position and soldered up. After a clean up they are test fitted to the running plate with the boiler fixed on- just a tad to tight on the smoke box so they will need a bit of filing before fixing on. All the boiler holes have been sized to take the white metal castings, handrail knobs and other bits. The castings have also been cleaned of flash and moulding lines and are about ready to go on after the boiler bands are done. More later........ Eoin
  11. I switched the lights on in photoshop! - a few selection marques with level adjustments for the headlamp beams, and some render 'lens flare' for the light glare and the flashing blue light....... Eoin
  12. The pocket on these coaches is to high! As you suggest, super glue it to the underside of the pocket and your almost at the right level!! Eoin
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