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johnminnitt
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Everything posted by johnminnitt
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Hello, I used brass screw heads in this fashion some time ago, with no problem in soldering. First I filed the screw-head - to remove any plating, muck etc. Cleaned up rail with fine wet and dry. Used 145 degree solder and plenty of flux - the same combination I used for etched kits. (Normal Phosphoric acid flux). Afterwards cleaned up remaining flux with a damp brush. You ask would it be worth using flux on the screw, I am sure it would be much harder without. As Mayner says the flux in cored solder is not really up to this, I would always use a separate flux for any constructional joint - the 145 degree melting point helps too.
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OK, let's have a gallery of them. No 3 in her early years on the C&L, while she still had the cast numberplate. (ie still looking as in her later T&D days)
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Edit's not working - so, PS - I think that came from a Yahoo group - 00n3 or Irish narrow gauge one.
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I copied this from some book years ago, don't recall which. I'm sure someone here could tell you. UCLR.doc
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I will just briefly agree in recommending Pendon to anyone who could possibly visit. The trains are fine, but, as Leslie says, the buildings and scenics are brilliant. I've greatly enjoyed watching it grow, visiting once a decade or so since my mother took me nearly 60 years ago.
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Would there have been joint ownership? Wouldn't it have been like the Donegal or Swilly - cross-border and so staying separate?
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I have often thought (and once built, longer ago than I care to consider) that a harbour branch makes a good small 'shunting plank' type of set-up, it can be rural or among quayside buildings, and waterfront is always atmospheric' Having water wholly or partly behind it on the backscene (as with Arun Quay or Shell Island) can really open out a small layout. I did think that the Ulster and Connaught might give a base for a fairly freelance such set-up - maybe a branch from near the Western end to a small port (looking especially at Roundstone, a photogenic place I think, though I've never had the pleasure of going there - but it reminds me of Cornwall so it must be good).
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If the temptation to try that does strike one day, don't be too deterred - a good many people have got P4 to work decently without the level of precision skills you suggest. I even managed it a bit myself in the past - both in UK standard gauge and in real broad gauge (7ft) - and I'm certainly no watch maker.
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All good reasons, depending on your personal priorities, and no doubt many who use 00 in the UK have similar reasons. There just seems to be a smaller percentage whose different priorities lead them to 21mm (and other scale equivalents) than there are who do P4 and EM. Certainly it is less of a task to modify stock and get it working well, and to make one's own better-looking track, with a small branch than with a main-line set-up. Maybe there's less interest in that sort of thing than in the UK?
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Yes, as someone quite new to this forum (previous connection with Irish modelling being mostly 3ft gauge, and awareness of a few fine models like Adavoyle, Castle Rackrent) I am a bit surprised how little 'proper' broad gauge there is. Sure there's a lot of 00 in the UK, but there's a good deal of EM and P4 too. Maybe there's less interest in smaller prototypes, where it's easier to put time into getting track and wheels right, and more main line stuff?
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Absolutely, just glancing at pictures above (especially looking down on the van), or shots of Belturbet or Valencia online, the correct gauge looks so much better. Of course we who have dabbled in 00n3 have had the gauge right too! PS Are there any pictures online of the Courtmacsherry model? I'd like to see that, it was an attractive prototype.
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If you don't manage to swap the C&L 4-4-0T (unmade Backwoods kit I assume) I would probably be interested in buying, depending on price and my financial situation at the time.
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There's this one too, I think I saw it at the Narrow Gauge show at Shepton Mallett a good many years ago https://sites.google.com/site/3mmpublic/members-layouts/finnegan-s-crossing
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I think that EDN looks pretty good too, what was the mix? The transfers match well too, if you painted over them it's very neatly done. Re the 'Guard' image - I agree with Achill, the 6021 looks closest, neat 216 looks a bit dark Again, sorry to be repetitive, I don't think one should be too hung up about official specifications, what a colour looks like in service on an actual coach at some distance is the main thing surely. The 'Quiet Man' EDN looks a good deal lighter than 216, or is that my eyes, or 1950's colour film?
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Yes, I understand your comparison, I was referring to Steve's suggestion of 216 for snails and 14 C 35 for numbers and lines. On the whole I think I agree with your preference for 14 C 35 for the whole lot. PS Holts (http://www.autocustompaint.co.uk/Pages/BritishStandardPaint.aspx) list 14 C 35 as 'Braemer Green in the 4800 range, in aerosols and touch-up paints.
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Surely snails, lines and numbers should be the same shade? It's always looked that way to me, but which of the two above is better seems to vary with which photo you look at, what computer you look with and the state/age of the vehicle's paint job?
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The colours on the right look pretty close to the film still to me.
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Yes, sorry, I was thinking back to the green paint question when talking about ,mixing. Still I think the other points are relevant to the snails. I also think your word 'flatter' is well chosen, too bright a colour can look wrong even if technically correct - who ever saw a railway with every vehicle fresh from the paint shop? Weathering a bright colour helps but maybe isn't quite the same as fading. In the past I have read of people toning down full-strength colours with a little pale tan/grey for that effect (done it myself with 'official' GW green). Still it's probably asking a bit much for suppliers to produce transfers in 'fresh' and 'faded' shades. It would be nice though. Tearnes seem to exist still, I don't suppose they still have any relevant records.
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I thought 225 looked more like it.
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Am I right in thinking not all EDN snails were lined, not I think when they're on goods stock and NG coaches? If so, even if you do produce lined ones Steve please keep unlined ones going too. Different screens, different perceptions make this a bit imprecise. To my eye the 216 Eoin pasted into Steve's transfers looks a bit darker than the 216 pasted into the large snail, and the EDN above John Wayne's head looks lighter than most shades suggested later. Still, as has been said many times about livery paints, first they were quite possibly not always mixed exactly the same, the shade would change with weather, dirt, sunlight once in use, and isn't it true that a colour seen close up is not the same when seen from some distance, as models effectively are. So do we want the 'officia'l shade as new, a bit used, seen from six inches or 200 yards?
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I agree, that snail looks (to my little eye) noticeably darker than the Quiet Man pic, or the snail in Mr Achill's symbol. On your examples I quite like the second from the left, top row, block C. I would suggest that if unsure, as one can hardly help being when the shade seems to vary so much, it's better to go paler than darker - paint would surely not remain the 'paintshop' shade for very long and would be more likely to fade rather than darken?
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Availability of CIE (1945-55) green paint
johnminnitt replied to jhb171achill's topic in Irish Models
This place lists those BS codes, I don't know how good their paint is though. http://www.autocustompaint.co.uk/Pages/BritishStandardPaint.aspx and - https://www.riolettcustomaerosols.co.uk/cheap-british-standard-bs381c-paint/ -
For me too the green looks pretty good. Is there any other source of eau de nil snails and class numbers, as those seem not to meet with approval?
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Ballinamore as siad above, but nothing to do with N or 009 of course being 3ft gauge.
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Yes, nicely done. I have come to this forum via an interest in the 3ft gauge which did sometimes tend to the grubby end of the spectrum (take a bow C&L), and where weathering seems normal on models. On wider tracks though I have however seen here a few pictures of these bubbles looking spotless in trains (along with pristine light grey opens etc) and yours look vastly more convincing.
