Galteemore

Nice drawing. You can do it yourself with a flat piece of brass rolled round a broom handle or dowel - bit laborious but can be done. Or use brass tube - which can be a heat sink though and thus hard to solder. If you’re going to be doing a bit of this over time, slip rollers such as these are a good investment - they will roll a flat sheet into either a gentle curve or a complete tube and anything in between; also useful for forming wagon roofs etc.....

Great stuff! Something about the view out the window looked familiar. Lovely scene - and something not often recorded

Enniskillen?

Yes indeed - support the Home Team! If they haven’t got it, Slaters are good for 7mm wheels and will supply Irish loco axles on request. Buffers - try Roxey Mouldings or Northants Model Railway Supplies.

I thought abandoning RTR modelling would put an end to that - but it’s got worse! All those lovely tools and materials ...

Please stop these helpful posts, lads. My Amazon wish list is crying out for mercy now!!!

One of these yokes is handy too...I have a simple one that clamps on the table

Markethill?

For a loco body 10 thou brass is fine - you can brace it with brass angle etc as you go. Chassis would require a thicker metal ideally. This is a rather good link. I think you’d need to break that rather nice drawing down into a few elements. The cab, splashers etc generally need built up separately.

Yes, you’d really need tiny LNWR type wheels or similar

Midland Man said ......Lovely stuff My future OO gauge layout will only focus on small traction would 100 be as long as a juntie chassis Way too big, I think. Brighton Terrier would be nearer, but still on the large side I’d say. Maybe even an SECR P class.

That picture sums up the appeal of Irish railways, and why I model a 1950s backwater. Pure class.

There’s a thought ...three little words put me off though - Outside Valve Gear.....

Have a look at the site I mentioned earlier, MM, and those books may be helpful. A set of French curves will give you templates for most curved shapes. What you could do is draw an outline and photocopy it (assuming you have access to such equipment in your place of confinement). Stick that on a sheet of 10 thou brass and then cut with strong scissors or tinsnips, just outside the drawn line. Then file to shape. This may also be of use...

MM - modelling is all about the mistakes and learning to fix them. If you’ve not come across them, Simon Bolton or Geoff Holt’s books on loco building are excellent. As is this thread..,https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=666 Look forward to seeing what’s next ! .

Well done - great start!

Interesting comment JHB, on which I have been reflecting. In truth, I’m not sure that things were casual (it was in many ways a more formal and stratified world ) so much as built on a greater level of implied and unspoken trust. Drivers let you in the cab believing that you were who you said you were - and trusting that you would make no spurious claims for liability in return! The word of officials was taken at face value and generally followed - if grudgingly. We live now in an era of much less public trust and the consequences can be sad to see ....I was shocked yesterday to receive a parcel of tools and sheet metal for which I had not yet paid - the vendor trusts me to pay on receipt (which I did!). My surprise was because this is no longer a way businesses customarily trade with private individuals. It was a nice and unfamiliar example of old values...

Have a look on this excellent resource - click on image to move into it. It seems to suggest that buffers tend to actually have a smear of grease on the contact surface rather than the scuffing one might intuitively expect.

This is lovely stuff, JHB. Your dad was a real old school railway ‘officer’ and I well remember his gentlemanly and quiet style - a glimpse into a world that we have now largely lost.

Nice job!!

Thanks David. It’s Roger’s. I’ve got a few learning points about building it to 5’3” - the lugs for 36.75 brake gear end up concealed under the folded in beams which need ground away at that point. Usual nice little compensated axle feature though. The CIE works plates are exquisite, although that’s not what I said when I was sweating them on.

Looks like a Palvan beside the brake, MM..

One of Mr Bulleid’s triangulated underframes. Suppose I’d better put something on it but am just liking its shininess for now!

You can only try - you’ll be amazed what you can actually achieve. Practice a few techniques and you’ll be well away. Have a look at Connoisseur Models website for O gauge kits. I learned how to solder and build brass kits from the advice there.

I do love that workshop David! It’s what I aspire to. Yours is pretty good too Robert. Tonight I’m modelling on the kitchen table which is best option right now. I think we can all find space to do something - even a small project. After all, many of the greats such as Peter Denny managed on a tray with a soldering iron heated in the kitchen stove.......