Horsetan

Clearly some phones are more flexible than others.

Sawing off the excess axle length means I have a grand total of ONE completed wheelset ....so I could start putting the coupling rods together: 2 layers for each rod. Aluminium hairgrip is all you need to keep 'em together during soldering: Then remove the rod from the fret in order to file down and clean up the excess solder: An evening's work: I think we'll start sawing out some chassis spacers next..... That would be a Chivas Regal 12-yr-old. It will be mostly empty by the time this engine is finished.

One wheel is mounted flush with the axle end: The other end shows the excess portion needing to be sawn-off: Easy job with a piercing saw. In this photo, you can see that I have test-quartered the wheels, with the offside (r/h) crank leading: For those who don't deal with steam, that basically means that when the engine moves forward, it's the right-hand crank that will come round first, followed 90 degrees later by the nearside (l/h) crank. I don't know yet whether right-hand lead is correct for the "S"-class. There were some British steam classes (I think the LNWR "G2A" 0-8-0 was an example) which had a left-hand crank lead, as does the Drewry "04" diesel shunter.

^ I don't get that at all.

I have enough trouble getting me head around 2D, never mind 3D.

Couldn't wait to test a pair of driving wheels on the Ultrascale lengthened axle: This shows the measurement over the wheel faces to be about 25mm, so if and when I order more driving axles from Ultrascale (think of the NCC "WT"), I can ask them to supply them at 25mm long as a reasonably standard length for Irish 5'3". There's supposed to be both a checkrail and a flangeway gauge in the Stores list. Tip: if you're stuck without the flangeway gauge, try substituting a spark plug feeler gauge, as there's usually one of the right thickness in the bunch. For example, one of the feeler "fingers" has a thickness of 0.58mm and this is dead-on correct for the flangeway in dead-scale (no compromise) Scalefour. It would also work for dead-scale 5'3" flangeways.

The correct back-to-back gauge arrived in today's post. I don't believe it.

lol

Frustrating, wha'?

They are Grand.

None anywhere on the screen - I've scrolled up, down, left and right. The phones I use are the LG GM360, and a Nokia C5.

That would be a challenge for any coach preservationists who want to restore it to the rails. Wonder what coach diagram it is?

I sometimes access the Forum via one or other of my mobiles (non-Apple), and have noticed that though it is perfectly possible to log-on and see the various sections and threads, I am only allowed to access the first page of every thread. There is no allowance made for seeing pages 2, 3, 4 and so on if a thread grows to more than one page. Is there a reason for this "page 1 only" appearance?

It's not so much the stock, but the basic tools to gauge wheels and rails.... If you can't get those, you can't really get started.

Three hundred-plus quid's a lot to pay. Mind, though, the Swiss HO electrics from HAG have been in that sort of territory for years, and they still run on 1970s motor technology.....