irishthump

Yes that will work. But it should work on DC out of the box. You'll have to crank the power up higher than usual under the sound starts, then the loco will move as normal. The sound will shut of if you turn the power off completely at the controller.

If it is not configured to run on DC it's a simple job to do but you will need access to a DCC controller to set it up.

If I remember correctly the sound equipped locos will run on DC out of the box.

227s ordered! Plenty of time to sort out some railcars to go with it!

Yeah I was thinking about 227, thanks for the confirmation!

Fantastic news! I didn't get to the show over the weekend but this is definitely something to look forward to! I was going to go the route of the Silver Fox kit but to be honest with the IRM A Class on my layout already they just won't cut the mustard. Quick prototypical question: Which of the Supertain liveried options would be most approproate for operating with the railcars in push pull configuration? Or would any of them be suitable.

Par for the course from this particular individual. Best ignored tbh.

It's the raw materials, epoxy resin (an oil product) used in the manufacture of the PCBs is significantly delayed because of the Iran conflict. The price of copper foil has also gone through the roof. ESU are a German company but all their manufacturing takes place in China.

The circuit board supports DCC sound but you need to install a speaker. However the solder pads are there on the circuit board and there's a cradle for a speaker so there is some provision for sound on these models.

I find Sostrene Grene has a lot of useful stuff. Their cheap paintbrushes are very good and they have a decent range of acrylic paints which are great for scenic work.

I have used a Gaugemaster Prodigy 2 for about 15 years and I'm very happy with it. But Gaugemaster are based in the UK and Brexit makes that difficult right now, especially if you have yo return the system for warranty work. If I was starting now I'd go to https://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/ and order either a Lenz or Roco system. You could even pick up a starter set which includes a perfectly good controller for €250 AND you get a loco and coaches you could use for another project or sell of. https://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/Starters+%26+Sets/Start-Sets+digital/Roco-5110019/gb/modell_474436.html

I know you say you've already tried DCC but to be honest it's the best option. It will provide the slow control you require while also having the advantage of simplified wiring for the layout. In many cases a good DCC controller is just as expensive as the high end DC ones, but bargains can be got on smaller systems which would suit a small shunting layout.

And the last of my 42’ Ferts are also finally finished. That’s the full rake of 8!!!

30 Ton Brake Van from @Past-Avenue has finally been weathered! Very pleased with the result….

Black and amber was how I've also heard it frequently described...

Seeing this video of 102 shunting cement wagons in Adelaide Yard gave me enough modeller's licence to buy a Hunslett, even though I ended up buying a different livery version of Falcon! Lots of videos on this guy's YT channel. Including this one of a wonderfully disheveled 102 shunting Guinness kegs...

Yeah it's a sad reality though. These influencers can also downplay their part in things by hiding behind the screen of "I'm just giving an honest review." While all the while using clickbait title cards saying things like "I'm so angry about this model!" or "worst loco EVER!" and gleefully putting the boot in when there are problems. It's not helped by the fact that some of these "reviews" are shaky at best.

One of @Past-Avenue’s 3D printed barrier wagon tanks after being painted, weathered and perched atop an IRM 42’ flat wagon.

When the coach is the right way up the coupling should clear the bogie and the bufferbeam. Check that nothing has come lose on the coupler.

My three Park Royals were delivered yesterday and my Hunslet came today! I only had the chance to give them a quick run this evening, but I don't seem to have any problems over curves or points when pulling OR pushing. All my track and points are Peco Streamline. On a side note I'm really impressed with the design of the pickups on the bogies. There is no drag at all on the wheels, nice job!

Sanding the plastic really is the trick to it. Sanding both the spot on the bogie and the Kadee coupler box gives a really good bond.

I attached all my Kadees and NEM pockets to the bogies with Superglue (cheap stuff) after abrading with sandpaper. That was about 10 years ago and they're still attached!

Newer adhesives like Plastic Magic from Deluxe will work. Also, if you roughen the surface with fine sandpaper or a file superglue works very well. They look very good! I don't think I could be that brave with the close coupling space on my layout!

For when they were made the Lima coaches are fine. They have better details than they’re given credit for and can be made to look even better with detail parts. I have quite a few in British liveries and they happily run behind my modern locos. My layout is all code 100 so the wheels give me no problems and I have switched all the couplers for Kadees or magnetic ones. Although they're obviously not the most detailed models they can be made to look pretty presentable and they run very well.

Dug out 4 Dapol Tank Wagon kits and got them assembled, painted and weathered over the weekend. Happy with how they look although 2 of them are not good runners! Think I’ll have to investigate but I’d say the culprit is a warped chassis. Also got some silvering of the decals but I don’t think that looks too bad and adds to the ramshackle look! Besides, some more weathering would cover that….