BosKonay

Exactly Though of course I have a fear that once the mainline loop opens for business, I may well lose a few months to

I am finding I'm getting faster the more I do But I'd expect to not have -all- the track in place until at least next Paddy's day - and then have a fiddle yard to lay. Then there is the computer control, block detection, signaling, automation, lighting, stock improvement; lighting; shipping; weathering' detailing, then the scenic stuff

All credit to Glenderg (and you Dave) it's your work that's made this layout move from 'technically good' to stunning to look at too! Only about 5 years in the planning Rich And probably will be the same or a bit longer in the building / detailing What better way to spend a decade

Some shots / perspectives of the Blackrock Road Preservation Depot Having secured generous EU funding, the Depot houses a collection of preserved steam and diesels Last shot shows a RTP Bachmann Shed for scale (and an 071)

Yep, gotta love the story around it I can almost smell the sulphur meself

I also have the Restoration Depot shed I'll get some snaps of it shortly!

Otherwise, I've laid 8 feet of mainline, and installed the two points and a slip just before the curve to the left heading for the viaduct. At this rate, I should have track crossing the viaduct by tomorrow (and then another day to build the mainline bus to power it!)

And the old LMS tower is in place, pending completion of the hardstanding in this area!

The Billboard and tower at the end of platform 5 are in place

First up, the 'Battery House' has been restored / conserved and (once a foundation is laid) will see new life as a shunters / DMU drivers mess

Click to download PDF

New PDF's added.

In all her glory http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/content.php/263-GSR-800-Class-Locomotive-Drawings

Rofl Loco at the end of the platform / platform ramp

Good to know! So basically everything in Connolly would have been loco at platform-end...

What I'm liking about this method is that, because the glue is 'under' the track, the ballast only goes where you want it. None sticks to the chairs, rails or top of the ties and, for points, the ballast, once hoovered off, is under the movement.

Here is the continuing mainline and a single slip with the same method (carefully ballasted to avoid the moving parts)

Will reveal all hopefully tomorrow in between ballasting and track laying

Very interesting - was there any particular reason for the pattern / preference?

Nice write up on Rmweb http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65398-hornbys-2013-announcements/

Had a quick collection today from Casa del Glenderg (Happy Birthday Sir!!!! ) and will be posing some shots tomorrow with some new civil engineering masterpieces!

I've done another stretch of flex track, and a single slip this morning. Will take some more snaps in the morning once vacuumed.... am 'quietly terrified' about the slip But had to be tested

Using woodlands flex glue, you have about 15-20 minutes before it goes off / too tacky to work with - plenty of time to adjust and tweak the track alignment, slide in cosmetic / replacement ties and pour the ballast over. As you say kirley, the noise reduction properties should also be excellent.

Brilliant - thanks for the link warbonnet! Love the look of the A4 display case The Sentinel is very cute - you'd definitely have to have one The silver jubilee railroad pack looks great value too Nice new shunters truck I see RailMaster gets an iphone app too.... and the 'e-link' - basically an elite controller with no buttons Clever...

I'm trying a few ballasting methods on Amiens Street, so thought I'd post a few 'how tos' Here is a method I call 'Glue and Drop' 1 - Prep your foam/cork underlay and track as normal (I drill for the dropper at this point, etc). 2 - Plaster the underlay entirely with copydex / foam tack glue. i use a small glue spreader and 'paint' the foam sides and all under the track. Then lay the track on the glue. I use this opportunity to also add back in any cosmetic sleepers. 3 - Dump ballast liberally over the lot, and use a finger / small black of wood to tamp it down. 4- Weight the track down so it sets in shape and level Fast forward 24 hours. 5 - Remove the weights and use a small hand held or computer vacuum to remove the excess ballast. All done PRO: - It's a one step process, and as I am gluing the track down anyway, it's making laying, ballasting, cosmetic sleep repair all one job - It's very neat, as ballast will only stick where you plaster the glue - I'm using this method for points, just not applying glue to the moving tie area - You use a LOT less ballast CON: - Ballast only sticks to the glue, so you don't get much 'depth' You might want to go over the area again with the traditional dropper method to model fresh ballast or deeper ballast. Any feedback or thoughts let me know!