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Alan's Workbench

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Posted

More PPs. The boiler came ready rolled which was a real help. It just needed tightening up a bit on the rolling bars. Boiler bands can be a bit of a struggle to fit. Three cheers for fibreglass pencils to clean up the mess afterwards.

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The boiler needed quite a bit cut out of it to clear the motor, gearbox and wheels. The danger is always cutting too much away and leaving an unsightly gap somewhere so it's a time consuming exercise - boiler in, mark it up, boiler out, cut a bit, boiler back in again, fit the chassis, check for clearance, repeat until done.

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The smokebox has three layers and needed a lot of heat to get everything soldered up.  I had the temperature controlled iron turned up full and still it was struggling. 

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A trial run at Loughan Quay

 

 

Time for a tidy up, more fibreglass pencil and a scrub with scouring powder. 

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Posted (edited)

Wow that’s fabulous. I find guitar band clamps are great for holding boilers together whilst soldering. Know what you mean re cutting out / lots of careful measurements! Something mesmerising about watching those huge drivers !

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Edited by Galteemore
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Posted

Having never come across such things, had to Google them and discovered a weird and wonderful array of tools. Every day a school day!

 That said, will probably stick to soft iron garden wire to hold a boiler in shape for soldering.

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Posted
21 hours ago, Galteemore said:

Wow that’s fabulous. I find guitar band clamps are great for holding boilers together whilst soldering. Know what you mean re cutting out / lots of careful measurements! Something mesmerising about watching those huge drivers !

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Save a lot of fretting........

  • Funny 5
Posted

I've been avoiding fitting the brake gear to the PPs chassis up till now though some of the work was already done. Brake hangers using 0.7mm brass rod were soldered in at the time the chassis frames were assembled and the brakes themselves were made up and drilled to fit. Stringing it all together was tricky but slightly easier than I'd been dreading. 

This loco has brake pull rods on the outside of the wheels. I used these to help line up the brakes and solder them onto the hangers. Cross shafts were then fitted and soldered into holes in the bottom  of the brakes. Finally the pull rods were soldered onto the cross shafts which were then trimmed and filed to length.

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I fitted the outside brake pull rods as far outboard as possible to allow for the wheels to be removed if ever necessary.

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The superstructure now has most of its details added and is just about finished. I scribed a horizontal line along each side of the boiler to guide drilling the holes for the handrail knobs which were superglued in. The white metal castings were epoxied on.

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If this was a tank engine we'd be done now but there are the makings of a tender still in the box. 

Alan

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Posted

Me neither, David.  In fact, I'm not a fan of fitting brakes of any type. There's always the risk of brakes shorting on wheels, especially on compensated axles where the wheels are moving up and down and tilting so I tend to play safe and end up with a bigger gap between wheel and brake than I'd like.  In some of the scratchbuilds, I've used plastic brake gear from Gibsons which eliminates the risk of shorts but gluing these in place is never as secure as soldering metal ones. Swings and roundabouts🙄

  • Agree 1
Posted
14 minutes ago, Killian Keane said:

It never ceases to amaze me Alan how you manage to churn out brass scratchbuilds of such quality in a matter of a few weeks, just incredible!

Thank you Killian, very much appreciated. However, much as I'd like to claim this one as a scratchbuild, it's a NorthStar kit for a change 😄

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