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No Solder Tap Splices

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Geordiekerryman
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I use the blade splicers on my own layout and they work fine. I've heard that they are not recommended for a layout that gets moved constantly but that's not an issue for me. Just make sure you use the correct diameter wire to ensure a proper connection.

If you decide to use them don't buy them from shops like Halfords or Maplins as they charge a fortune for them, I got them on eBay for around 10euro for 2 packs of 50 including postage.

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I did not enjoy soldering underneath the base board and blade splices worked for me. I did find I could use a thin dropper wire by twisting it gently before splicing. Very important to test every splice/joint as you make them;I did"nt, what a waste of time looking for a dead section.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello Everyone.

A new member here & while searching for something else I spotted this thread.

 

I use these crimp splice connectors on my layout.

 

For main bus wires I use 32/0.2 cable so I use the blue crimp in the center here http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Crimp-Blade-Splice-33-0190

For dropper wire I use 16/0.2 cable so i use the red spade connectors here http://www.rapidonline.com/FFSearchResults.aspx?qFS=&query=330665&x=0&y=0

 

You can put on the blue crimps with a good pliers but you need a crimping tool for the spades. I have never had a problem with these connectors provided you use them properly.

There is a company Cooney Electronics in Dublin who bring stuff in from Rapid on a weekly basis. I got all my cable & connectors from them & they are very good. No connection with them other that a happy customer.

 

If anyone wants any further info just drop me a pm.

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While I'm sure that these new style connectors work fine, would echo earlier comments that they may not be the best thing for portable layouts. Equally, solder joints can fail occasionally too!

On the subject of soldering, the maxim of 'cleanliness BEFORE Godliness' is essential. Therefore use fine wet & dry/fibreglass pencil etc to clean the surfaces to be joined. I use a paste type flux as well, though any sort will do. Like everything else a bit of practice helps, though soldering a wire to a connector, rail etc really is simple once you have done it a couple of times. Don't faff around with small wattage irons - a 15 watt may be ok for fine wires, but would suggest at least 25 watts for 00 and double that for larger scales/bigger pieces of metal. For years now, I have been using an Antex 100 watt jobbie for pretty much everything apart from layout wiring, where a 25 watt one is best. Treated myself to an RSU a few years ago & though a bit of a luxury, it really works well when you need an extra hand, thanks to its foot operated switch.

Equally, I do not solder everything & prefer to use 5 min epoxy for whitemetal castings and the new cyanos where appropriate too.

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