Jimbo325ci

I was actually thinking of doing the same recently but couldn't find the thread! Hopefully the OP or someone has the images somewhere!!

I'd Defo go for a few more locos if they brought the sale back. I'm kicking myself for being so restrained lol

Managed to control myself all month but gave in last night and ordered 077 - Not going to be home for months so won't get to see it for a while tho!!

Did as advised above to no use - I did notice a tiny lip on the inside of the nozzle so maybe that's catching the paint and causing it to clog. I decided to order new nozzles & needles from Alison which arrived today....will get back on the results. As a matter of interest, I recently sprayed some white Vallejo primer and while it wasn't perfect it did spray better than the grey previously used. I have another bottle of grey I'll try as I've read the Vallejo stuff can go bad....

Thanks. Let me know if he decides to split!

Outstanding work!! Well done Popeye

That very well could be the case in the U.S. I know ATC in IRL/UK don't use primary for distances greater than about 30miles, there would certainly not be overlapping coverage. Secondary provides all the info required, inc speeds altitude direction, in fact new systems are being implemented to give a readout of information that is currently only displayed in the cockpit itself. You're right though, It is funny that the press would expect Russian bombers who are probably testing response times to their detection and interception to tell everyone they are there!!

As a matter of interest There's 2 types of radar - primary and secondary. Primary (referred to as military radar in that article) is generally only used in civil aviation in the direct vicinity of airports, with a range of about 30miles. A signal is sent out, hits a target and gets reflected back to the receiver. Power intensive as the signal has to be strong enough to go out and back. Also less reliable as rain, mountains etc can reflect signals. Secondary radar is the modern format. A one way signal is sent out and 'interrogates' a transponder on board the aircraft. The transponder then responds to the receiver with its position. If the transponder is off then no signal is returned and therefore the aircraft goes undetected.

Nice!! Will be ordering some of these soon!

Pretty much any cereal box is ok I've found. If you need thicker just double up. If you don't intend showing an interior there is the option of foam core sheets. Very lightweight and relatively rigid.

With regard to Q3 - I see deluxe materials have a new product 'strip magic' for removing paint. No experience of the product so can't comment on its effectiveness, but their stuff is normally pretty good.

Thanks lads. Richie I normally break down the airbrush and give it a good clean after each session. I've done what you said again in the hope that will solve it. Will be away for 2 weeks so will update this when I get back to let you know how it worked out.

Hey Guys Vallejo and many other people suggest using them straight from the bottle, just increase the air pressure. I've tried this and even using a .5mm needle/nozzle the airbrush clogs almost instantly, or spits the paint out. Anyone have any hands on experience and if so do you suffer the same probs? Thanks Jamie

Nice work, particularly like the last shot over the fence of 087!

Couldn't access it for the last 20 mins or so....

Yes perfect sense. I was thinking along those lines but wanted to see what other ppl did. Thanks K

Another question for the experts - how do you secure the coupling hooks in place? Thanks

Thanks fellas! Will post pics when it's done!

What do you guys use to stop the nut and bolt holding the bogie to the chassis from coming undone. I've found that it loosens quite quickly?!

Very nice! Have one of these to build myself, itching to start it seeing yours. Just started on the ballast wagons. Slow going!

Im currently building Weshtys 42' flats and glue my fingers together a worrying amount...! Anyway I found zap glue debonder in an RC model shop here and it's worked well on releasing my fingers...... Presume it would also work on the brass?