Brendan8056

You have my sympathy about the 4DD. I have a blue 4DD, having seen the real thing at close quarters the body looks right to me, the close coupling is the best yet for a Southern Electric. If you have a layout with just a plain length of straight track, totally level with no pointwork then you will love this model. Sadly mine is unable to complete 30 minutes in each direction running in. I too have derailments every lap on my 3rd radius Rocoline test track, which is a plain oval with a very slight gradient at one end. I have probably spent 8 hours trying to loosen screws on the bogies/close couplings/checking the wheels etc, as yet no luck. Either the outer motor bogie derails or the trailer next to the motor car has a bogie ride up on the rail and off the track. I could send it back for a replacement, but it seems a problem with all the KR 4DDs. Irish modelling is a lot easier.

A bit late to this topic, but I found a couple of pictures of grounded van bodies. They were taken in 1980 at Cavan cattle market, which was based in the former railway goods shed of, I presume, the GNRi station. The pictures were taken with a 110 film camera. Hopefully of use to someone besides myself? The cattle auction was an experience I would recommend to everyone.

Hello, Hopefully this set of posts from 2018 will answer questions about 21 mm wheels in bubbles etc. IRM took all comments on board and now do some amazing easy to convert wagons, but sadly the bubbles are not in that category. I only tried one bubble conversion, the one pictured and it never ran smoothly.

When the Murphy Irish Mk3s eventually appear they can add another livery variation, and sell to UK modellers as well. The Belmond Brittanic Explorer. This evening the train headed through my local station from Eastleigh railway works. I never thought an "Irish" train would go through Hounslow! Perhaps a link up with Accurascale for the lead class 66?

I had some dealings with this company when it was "Bill Bedford" models, and took my deposit for an RTR WT class tank loco, that never appeared. Most of my deposit never re-appeared though he did accept some of it as payment for some etched sides and some 21mm gauge brass fold up wagon W irons. In the world of small scale model railway manufacture this can happen, some great modelmakers but terrible businessmen! I feel Horsetan is right, only buy from the sales stand, do not try ordering in advance, as the item may never be produced. Mousa Models certainly wins awards for the vaguest website.

Jonathan's presentation was superb, 400,000 cattle a year, from one station on a branch line! I will be buying the book. Thanks Leslie and the IRRS London area for organising the meeting.

How strange this topic appears and yesterday at the Maidenhead (UK) model railway show I was talking to someone who said he was doing Irish with HO scale and had already done a cab master to make moulds for 141/181/071 cabs and used regauged tenshodos, of which he has many spare ones. They already model EM it appears, so they were not concerned about the oversize track. It seems they are an occasional visitor to this site. Who knows a post may appear at a future date with progress?

I have not done any of Leslie's cattle wagon kits but if the chassis is the same general design as the H van and Bulleid opens wagons he used to do then they can be easily built as 21mm. just use a fine razor saw to remove each axlebox/springs from the chassis and use superglue to secure to the solebar. It also make the wagon look wider, which is what us Irish modellers want anyway. You will also need to widen the space for the wheels to go, just us a file on the resin chassis. Attached a couple of pics which may be helpful. Enjoy assembling them, Provincial kits are easy to get great results with.

Welcome back to the world of Irish modelling. I have posted various bits here about re-gauging to 21mm. Rather than repeat myself you can hopefully search for my posts. Also I would suggest subscribing to "New Irish Lines", if you have not already done this. The latest releases from IRM and Murphy Models are 21mm friendly. As David Holman does, I also make my own axles using a drill and some files, very little skill is needed, if I can do it.

I wish my part of Hounslow had curry smells, sadly I am downwind of Mogden sewage works. Really well done, as are all your projects. those Peco laser cut houses do seem really good value.

Colin R, no problem at all. They have the same chassis as the corrugated opens. Conversion to 21mm is easy, it takes about 10 minutes, including moving the brake shoes out. Before and after views of open wagons side by side.. Of course the flats and all the vans will use this chassis as well. Well done IRM on the superb and clever design.

I am getting old and forgot the local route, it is a mile from where I live. Just take the Piccadilly Line all the way from Heathrow to Kings Cross/St Pancras. The bonus is a ride on the 1973 tube stock.

Good Morning, I would not use "Heathrow Express", I believe they still charge premium fares for a 10 minute quicker journey,. Use the "Elizabeth Line" instead, then Circle/Hammersmith and City lines, but expect long walks at Paddington and St Pancras as the signage deliberately sends you on long routes to "control passenger flow". There are also Dover trains 2 per hour from London Victoria to Dover, but these trains now take at least 2 hours, they were slowed down to make the St Pancras trains look faster (seriously, extra stops and slower speeds), likewise the London Bridge services. Unless your tour operator has sorted transport at Dover Priory I don't think there is any bus service to the cruise line terminal. Apart from what I have just said above, enjoy the holiday!

It's a B4/B5 bogie, viewed from underneath. The brake bits are push fit, but the factory may have put a dab of glue on them? For 21mm you would need to reposition them, and that would require glue to hold in place. I should add that nothing I have done affects the running of the bogie or the pick ups for the lighting.

If it helps with the re-gauge discussion I just took the easy route (P4 modellers look away). The pic has before and after wheelsets. Take the half axles, put pinpoint side upwards in a vice, and use a few taps of a hammer or similar object to push the axle down, leaving just enough to allow the wheels to slot back in. Join the pair of half axles with the plastic sleeve, use a wheel gauge and all is done bar putting the wheels back in the bogie frame. Works for me, and the lads on IRM/Accurascale stand at Alley Paley seemed to like it as well. (The Bulleid opens looked lovely, and have 28mm length axles, ready for proper gauge modelling) You do have to discard the brake blocks, but if needed you could probably glue them in place.