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    Hounslow. Middlesex.


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    4mm scale 21mm gauge

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Brendan8056's Achievements


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  1. If it helps I was able to download the videos to my computer. Then I went to Downloads and played them with "VLC Media Player". They played perfectly. I find VLC a good programme for playing a wide range of videos that other programmes don't play, and it was free to download. They are well worth watching, as always.
  2. Darius, Well done with the class 74. It really looks the part, one of the better MTK kits. I did a class 71 many years ago from an MTK kit and also used the Lima class 33, the body was so heavy the chassis bent. Having said that the MTK kit went together really well and if I saw an MTK kit for a class 74 at a good price I would consider buying it.
  3. Hello, This afternoon I have been helping get a layout ready for a show in 4 weeks (this show at Lenham, Kent http://frenchrailwayssociety.org/ ). We have converted it for DCC and most of us have used various Roco DCC sets, which are widely available and easy to use. One of the group has an NCE powercab, which we all had a go with and it is very user friendly. The scrolling control is very good for slow speed shunting and engines can easily be selected very quickly. Up and down keys can also be used to control locos and it works well with sound fitted ones. All our locos have 2 digit numbering for DCC. The display is very clear about what loco is selected and whether it is in forward or reverse. The display can also be set to show the amps the loco is drawing, very useful. We did find the locos do not like even a hint of dirty track, which will be a pain at shows, as track gets dirty very quickly. It seems the NCE user guide is rather poor, and it is best to look at you tube videos about using the system. I hope that helps with your choice.
  4. I think Phil (Murphaph) is right, I am certainly going to buy some ,and hope 21mm is easy to do. At least the axle lengths are 26mm, unlike some other Irish ones which are 24.5 (HO scale) axle length, so in theory this should mean less work to move axle boxes out a bit. The only past "generic" range as good as this was the Grafar (Graham Farish) 00 gauge bogie coaches made in the 1970s and early 1980s. The suburban versions could be converted to British third rail EMUs or modified to look Irish, and the corridor ones looked very Southern Railway or GSWR. Well worth looking out for on the secondhand market. Well done Hattons.
  5. Well done on making the move nearer to the proper gauge! Here is a link to a couple of articles in "New Irish Lines" about 21mm gauge diesel locos, including the 121 class. It is well worth subscribing to this magazine if you model Irish railways. https://www.dropbox.com/s/d86eqxk57ajch81/New Irish Lines Vol. 9 No. 3 - 2021 May.pdf?dl=0 I was rather brutal with my 121 rotating hubs, to get clearance. When shortened I carefully glued them in place so they are now fixed. You have to have very good eyesight to see them rotate at normal viewing distance. I have had no problem with the extending of the wheels to the axle ends, the excess play does not seem to cause any problems.
  6. I love the picture of 5132, it is indeed a Bulleid style 4EPB. I even recognised the location, the building with the chimney stacks is on the appoach to London Waterloo. It is still there today, looks the same. Also the shadow of the signal gantry confirms this. This means 5132 is probably heading to Guildford via Cobham, judging by the 42 headcode. Many of the 4EPBs had full yellow ends applied in the late 1960s, according to records, March 1968 for this unit. When I was travelling to school this was a regular unit , as units 5101-5132 were allocated to Wimbledon Depot. It is a great shot, much harder nowadays with so few windows to lean out of.
  7. Phil, I am jealous, I was in the Harz in February 2020, and the weather was similar as it was a very mild winter. I hope when you got to Wernigerode you went to the lovely Rathaus restaurant in the cellars for a meal before you travelled back. (Other places to eat are available in town and they are all superb)
  8. John, That is again superb, the loco weathering and great camera angles make for an Oscar winning video. On Kadees, do not use the under the track magnets unless all rolling stock is fitted with non magnetic (eg, not steel) axles. I say from experience on an HO scale layout I built. I had one under track magnet and every time I tried to uncouple there the wagons would literally bounce back to where the magnet was. I replaced it with a through the track example, no more problems after that. Putting them in place with blue tack is a clever idea.
  9. John, I have a few posts about trackwork, here is one relating to some points I built last year, I hope that is helpful. https://irishrailwaymodeller.com/topic/8752-freelance-mixed-gauge-handbuilt-trackwork/?do=findComment&comment=138410
  10. I used Das on a small (A3 surface area) tram layout for a French Railway Society competition. I did small areas at a time and impressed the cobble effect while the Das was damp, blending sections in using nothing more than a finger and some water. 3 years later and there is no shrinkage that I can see. I used polyfilla many years ago and that was difficult to get a decent finish with.
  11. John, Your pointwork is so realistic, I have done plain track with C&L and Peco parts but still stick to copperclad for points, so they lack the detail of yours. Here is another picture of the gauge change to 21mm. I am doing an article for "New Irish Lines", those who have yet to subscribe should consider doing so, as it is an inspiring read for Irish modellers of all gauges and scales.
  12. John, That looks superb as does your trackwork. Phil, I have re-gauged an A using the original wheelsets and axles. It really was easy and the axle ends still rotate. The hardest bit was carefully taking out the wheelsets and re fitting the bogie sides afterwards. Also if fitted with the speedo cable (top left in below picture) make sure that wheelset goes back in the correct place in the bogie, as it has the rotating hub on one end only.
  13. Brendan8056


  14. You may want to see if local hardware shops stock Humbrol, or Revell tins of paint, or can get them for you. I am lucky as my nearest one stocks a selection of Revell tinlets and Richardsons, up the road in Feltham, stock the full range of Humbrol paints, as they have a model department as well as the main hardware/ironmongers.
  15. Well done on purchasing the materials to become a fully fledged Irish Gauge Modeller. For the track I make I use just ordinary tin/lead solder, on a roll. A roll lasts years and I use it for wiring and track work. Track I made 30 years ago has no problems apart from an occasional dry joint or 3.
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