Broithe

Here - I've found one - it's not easy to see, but each of the Bowden cables controls a pair of points that operate simultaneously. The 'far' point travels to its extreme movement first, in either direction, and the kinks in the linking wires allow a little more movement in the 'near' points after the 'far' ones have 'made'. The cables came up through the edge of the baseboard to levers with high-friction pivots, to hold the 'near' points in place against the spring of the mechanism. Even with just home-made plywood cranks held in by a wood-screw, they worked almost faultlessly for years. It was only really a lash-up to see if it was worth doing properly, but it didn't seem to need improving, so it was never improved...

The model aircraft type of Bowden cables are a bit lower on the friction front and easier to cut to size - I have some pictures somewhere - they've been up on here before, but I'll find them again in a bit.

I worked with a Japanese chap who used to buy his cars in Japan, second-hand, and ship them over to Southampton, a benefit of the Japanese having inherited right-hand drive. In the mid-80s there were very few foreigners in the UK and my top memory of him is the time he rang a local garage in what must have sounded like a spoof accent, and said "I have 1969 Toyota Carina - I have sripping crutch!" - we were astounded when they took him at face value and just carried on with the conversation. Even the existence of a Carina that old in those days was mad enough, but his "Benny Hill" accent was comical. Over the years his accent got worse, as we got better at understanding him - one day, a chap on the shop floor actually asked me how long it had taken me to learn Japanese - he didn't even realise that I was being spoken to in English...

I suspect that these don't get chucked into the canal very often - or, maybe the old ones blew away?

I took the ould fellah for an oil change at the hospital this morning, so had a walk round for an hour or so.

I've done it under the baseboard, with a few bits of stick and paper-clips, even linking pairs of points to operate simultaneously. It's worth protecting the outboard ends of the rods from being caught in clothing, etc.

In modern times, things updated a bit.

Is there a joint in the track where this occurs? The track joiners can fail to connect between sections after a while - either by 'creeping' away from one rail, or by just losing 'grip' on one of the rails - this is usually more of a problem with flexi-track.

I think the bridge is about 1,500 metres, not much over a mile, anyway. It does make it look worse than it was, but getting up to get off was not something to be approached in a blasé manner. It was a 300mm lens equivalent, I suppose.

Some of the track needed tidying up a bit.

It's often feasible to lay the track, wired-up, loosely on the bare baseboard - and test it out with all plausible scenarios, before 'hiding' the wiring underneath. When you're happy with it, the track can be fixed and the droppers dropped.

If you're running two engines at the same time, you should have a means of separating the circuits and using one of the controllers for each one - the Model D has two track outputs at the rear - one for each control knob.

I am confident that you should have no trouble from the Gaugemaster. Just avoid running huge quantities of lighting from it.

A dropper is a wire from each rail down through the baseboard, to allow connections to be made 'out-of-the-way'.

Quick chat on the news just now - 95 bridge strikes this year, ten up on last year's total.

You may have cracked it - just a single one today.

That's always seemed the better way to me - any lateral force on a rail will almost always be outwards. The 'normal way' may be to do with stopping the rail from 'rolling' in the chair, perhaps?

This - - seems to be the first one, if that's any help.

I've recently started getting duplicated alerts for each new thread - not life-threatening, I will survive and just thought I would mention it.

I had two Hornby controllers, one was a lot worse than the other. Even when they work, the low speed control is poor. It can also be worth checking track and loco underside for loose trackpins, etc., that could cause shorts. Things like that can even get stuck up behind wheels.

Odd indeed - it's only ever happened to me when things have been running for a few minutes, then it all just turns off. There are much better devices out there - in fact, there may not be a worse one...

We've had a similar question just lately - http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/5938-MM201-Erratic-running?highlight=gaugemaster The Hornby 'train set' controller is not the best device around.

I see from October's Model Rail that the GSR Sentinel has sold out and there are only about 60 NCB ones left now, I believe.

There appears to have been a reconnaissance visit to Heuston today. I hope you've all been good boys....