GNRi1959

There has been a surge in sales of cheap Chinese ply which peels and Is poor quality.

9mm ply with 2 coats of primer 450mm wide screwed to a 60x20mm framework should be fine.

Over a period of several months i’ve used various types of plywood in my garden shed layout. As a carpenter I tend to go for quality over cost and was surprised by the behaviour of the various options. 9mm birch ply that I used cupped across the width of a 350mm board whilst 9mm Malaysian was quite coarse on the surface when primed. I normally avoid DIY stores (Homebase) but their 9mm ply, described as ‘hardwood’, was very flat and took two coats of Rustins grey primer on the edges and surfaces leaving a really smooth finish. On close inspection the hardwood is on the finished veneers only. I’m sure many layouts are built on what’s cheapest and easily obtained but it would be interesting to hear if primed plywood can withstand many happy years in an insulated shed before I starts to show its age.

Not only are the doors so realistic but they depict the workmanship that was typical of the 1950s, including the diagonal bracing on the door that just isn't perfect.

Here at long last is the makings of the Goods workings at Omagh complete with South Eastern Finecast well-type turntable and signal box. The paper template marks the position of the Goods Store. There are two more points to add to complete and these will allow wagons to move from the outside road to the inner sidings. By the way, all track work is pinned fairly loosely at the moment but it is the final layout design.

I think going slightly diagonal should improve things, thanks

I have a couple of sidings on my layout that just don't please me. They are straight. Is there anything I can do to change this or are long straight sidings acceptable. Unless I can come up with something interesting to take the eye from them.

That one of mine was bought from eBay last year for £5.99 and it really is a nice little piece of gear, I love it.

Permanent Way men busy today making a start on track laying and pinning.

Took delivery of South Eastern Finecast Turntable Kit today, looks pretty good and the components are first class.

Leslie, I don't doubt it - these were men I knew, I am sure there were others. (Edit) Yes, another signalman was Alec Clarke. An ex-UTA employee told me he used to lie in bed at night and watch a train of as many as 60 goods wagons leaving Newtownstewart en-route to Omagh, and beyond.

Leslie, the Signal Man in the South Cabin (nearest the passenger platform) was Jackie Thompson and in the North Cabin, Packie Donaghy. Post Office vans often reversed to the left of the picture where they had access to the platform, I will post a picture of this when I get home.

Hi Paul, Thanks for thinking of me and my interest in Omagh. The Engine Shed featured in the book was reduced to a shell during storms in the mid 50s when the roof was totally blown off. It was never replaced and the shell was all that ever remained. The beautiful stone building that was the main building stood until 1973 when it was finally demolished by Omagh District Council. Here it is in 1964 and all that remains today is the stone wall on the right hand side.

If I'm using Gaugemaster point motors, do I need one CDU for all points or one each?

Mike84C, I just got on with it and stuck down 3mm cork from a 10metre roll I bought at reasonable cost. Its down now and to be honest does nothing for sound in a shunting layout but just adds a little bit of depth of sleeper height and improves appearance. I am now ready to drill for point motors, fit droppers and fix track with pins to run serious tests. I also need to get the baseboard joints sorted with copper clad strips.

Paul, I have used brass pattern makers dowels to align the boards and good quality sprung toggle catches. I presume a dropped cable would be needed either side to maintain power feed?

Whats the best method of dealing with track work at baseboard joints?

Heres what it looks like now, track is sitting loose on glued cork. I will start laying the track tomorrow. I have to drill holes to fit point motors underneath and bore for the droppers. Out of shot, to the bottom will be the turntable and line to fiddle yard.

Finally decided to use 3mm cork underlay which I stuck down this morning. I painted the uncorked remainder of the baseboard tops with a quick drying acrylic grey primer. Looks good, some serious track laying should start this evening!

I guess the answer you are looking for is 'don't upload them if you're trying to avoid downloads'! Seriously, if I thought that years of buying, collecting and expense was just a 'click' away I wouldn't do it.

I've often thought of creating an on line 'museum' or 'gallery' of photographs from the steam era in Omagh and also Fintona. It would be nice to let people the material rather than have it archived in photo albums and archived on a hard disk. Can anyone suggest an on-line platform where I can do this with some sort of security to prevent mass downloading.

It will certainly make it easier to lay track, bore holes under tie bar for point motors and fit dropper wires. I may not need to use the extension rods provided on Gaugemaster point motors to throw the points. I think i'll just leave the bare ply as there will be a better bond for PVA and scenics.

Noel, the sounds coming from locos on the bare ply are quite realistic at the moment without the cork. Might just lay it direct without cork.

BosKonay, the ply is new, clean and level. Locos won't reach any speeds worth talking about however the cork does add a little cushion to the firm 9mm ply surface.

I'm about to lay 3mm cork under my track bed. On looking at pictures of the Goods Yard and sidings at Omagh, there is little ballast and the 'shoulder' of ballast around the yard and sidings have disappeared. If that is the case, would it be acceptable to lay cork across the entire baseboard area and save me the trouble of cutting cork either side of the sleeper line. The ballasting would form some shoulder - would it be enough? See photo below......