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dropshort105

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Everything posted by dropshort105

  1. Wow, good to know
  2. I better get the finger out and finish the bloody thing now
  3. I was having derailment issues with a hornby class 73, was using it as a donor chassis for a C Class, anyhoo, after a lot of frustration I discovered the motor bogie didn't have enough clearance from the chassis frame, a couple of minutes with a file and it was sorted, I was very surprised as it was a brand new loco, if I wasn't going to chop it up anyway I would have been very annoyed, not saying you are having the same issue, but might be worth a look.
  4. Yup, me and my Kilshaughlin layout would love to attend, if I can figure out how to get it 200 yrds up the road.
  5. Oh my God, the possibilities with that space are endless, decide on an era and a country, once that is established let your imagine go mental, then bring it back a smidge to something realistic, but most important, keep us updated, we are nosey buggers.
  6. That's half the fun
  7. Oooh, I'm looking for four of them to tow four airfix 25 pounders, wanna do an FCA gun battery in transit.
  8. That's the second helix done, somebody said ya can't put a point on one, so me being stubborn said why not ?, it seems to be working fine so far.
  9. If you want to save that brush you have, provided you got most of the paint cleaned off it, chew it for a couple of minutes, that will probably soften it up. But if you aren't stuck for a good brush, bang it with a hammer a couple of times and it should still be good for dry brushing.
  10. Grand its enamel so, white spirit or petrol will do the job.
  11. If it's acrylic white spirit or acetone won't work, if it's enamel white spirit will do the job fine, better again, enamel thinner, but be warned, it stinks, don't use it in the house, it is one of the most common causes of model induced divorce. Actually if you have a petrol lawnmower, use a bit of petrol out of that, will also work on enamel, if it is acrylic, just use water,
  12. Try swirling it around in a lil blob of toothpaste and rince off with warm water, works with most paints, acrylic, enamel, water, oil, probably immulsion
  13. Lovely, are they kits or RTR,s
  14. Oh, do you have any intention of parting with any of em ?
  15. I have just ordered 3 of their C Class kits, already have a C and an A, they are cheap, so I don't mind drilling holes, adding handrails, drilling out the side windows and weathering them, things which I probably wouldn't do the the IRM's, pity they discontinued the A class,
  16. The problem with a subterrane yard is not having any idea what's going on under there, problem solved. CCTV
  17. I found these things in Sostrene Grenes ( posh flying tiger ) for a fiver, that's all of my hedging needs taken care of.
  18. Following your progress with great interest.
  19. this stuff is cheap and it goes a long way, you can get it in most hardware shops.
  20. Worth a mention ,is the radius reduces with the curve, I get away with radius 2 and 3, but 1 causes problems.
  21. They can be frustrating alright, mine is scratch built, but the same general idea of threaded rods and lots and lots of bolts. It's my second helix so nowhere near as frustrating as the first one was. Older locos with traction tyres don't do so well on them, I replaced the tyres with an American stuff called Bullfrog Snot, it makes for a serious reduction in wheel slippage. Will post a pic later when I clear all the tools and whatnot off it.
  22. Just spent my day building one of those myself, Yours is a little neater than mine
  23. Work has commence on the second helix, supports are 6mm threaded rods, B&Q horizontal supports are 2mm ply, I lay the track as I go in order to check running and clearance, the idea is to take trains from the subterrane fiddle yard up to the scenic level, I think I mentioned it somewhere before, so I can run end to end, tail chaser or combination, which ever I feel like doing at the time, more to follow.
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