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MikeO last won the day on May 29 2019

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  1. A good start. The main thing is that you are happy with them. None of my Irish stock is totally authentic but I am happy with them. MikeO
  2. Peter The buffer beams are attached to each end of the chassis and the buffers are attached to the beams. My measurements include the buffer beams but not the buffers themselves. In respect of the class 37 the attached photos show 1 the buffer beam as seen from the front of the loco 2 the buffer beam and the position of original body as seen from underneath. I hope this helps Given your measurements of the Shapeways bodies neither the class 20 nor the class 37 chassis will suit. MikeO
  3. Peter Did you buy SW9s for the 121. If so were there any issuing in fitting them to the Shapeways bodiy? The Class 20 chassis measures 91mm in length from buffer beam to buffer beam and 15mm in width. With regard to the 071, the length of the class 37 chassis is 121mm in length from buffer beam to buffer beam and 16mm in with. If you have an 071 Shapeways body does this help? MikeO
  4. Peter I had looked at the Shapeways bodies when I first considered modelling a class 121 but could not find the specified chassis donor which was an American switcher SW9. To me the drawback to the Shapeways bodies is that the designers either had in mind a specific chassis or the left it to the buyer to come up with something. This is very hit or miss. While the dimensions are quoted, usually external, there can be issues with internal dimensions. A friend showed me bodies he bought for the class141/181. The internal cavity appeared to be too small to take any standard motor. The other issues is the length of the chassis need for each body type. Looking at any commercially available chassis it was always hard to know which might fit the body. even comparing real life dimensions of the potential donor loco with those of the real life body prototype I could not find any that match exactly. Making changes to the chassis was not something I felt comfortable with doing. If you find any chassis that fit I would be interested to know. MikeO
  5. Peter In both cases I used the whole model. For the 071 the donor was a Class 37 diesel and for the 121 it was a class 20. The choice of these models was influenced by the fact that they were about the right length and had the correct wheel arrangement. I thought it would be simpler building up the body to the appropriate shape. I am content that it looks the part but may not be strictly accurate. Hope this helps.
  6. The Mark 4 coaches look well how do you intend coupling them? I also like the container wagon chassis. Is this your own design? MikeO
  7. The Cregagh show went very well considering the prevailing conditions. A number of exhibitors decided against attending and numbers of the public were not great but I believe the organisers were pleased with turnout. For a small show there was a good range of food available for the public in a dedicated eating area designated "The Buffet Car" Below is a selection of photos covering most of the layouts present. T Trak overview Two shots of a cattle train on T Trak Also a photo showing some card 6 wheels, scaled down Alphagraphix 00 gauge kits. the 3 coaches on the left. Killagan St Columbas Club from Belfast a new one to me Stirks Corner an 00 Gauge layout Several other N Gauge layouts. I did not record their names. MikeO
  8. Kieran Very impressive captures the look of the real thing. The extra detail should make it even better. The 2nd photo in the sequence reminds me of a Shapeways N Gauge Generator van I was given. There was a lot of stratification which I found very difficult to make smooth. Even though it seemed smooth enough to paint, once done the lines were still visible. on the track it looks fine but closer up not as good as would have liked it to have been. I hope you will be able to get a good fonish on the final print. MikeO
  9. The coach looks good. For cutting thin card ie upto about 300gsm I use Scalpel blades with an appropriate handle. The blades are very sharp and need care when handling but when new make cutting windows etc much easier. For cutting mounting board etc I use a new blade in a rigid utility type knife. Those with snap off blades are too thin to make good cuts in mounting board. As with all cutting patience and plenty of practice are essential. For attaching bogies I use two different methods Fleischmann track screws which are expensive and small brass screws about 8mm long a pack of about 10 cost around £2. I got mine in a local craft shop but it closed a few weeks ago. Attached are a few photos showing each method. Using the brass screws is easiest as the head fits neatly into the hole in the bogie and is my preferred method. The first photo shows the brass screw method. The second photo shows the screw which is a size 3 and sold as 3/8in long (8mm) The third photos shows the Fleischmann screw method. These are very thin and require support to keep the bogie in place. I use a small roundish piece of plastic or thick card (the white pieces below the screw head). To keep the bogie wheel from fouling the floor or chassis sides I use a small plastic washer. A piece of plastic card or paper card of the right thickness would also work. In photo 4 the plastic washer can be seen under the bogie. Photo 5 shows the washer and photo 6 shows the box in came in. I got mine from Woodies in Dundalk. I think they cost around €2 MikeO
  10. The magnetic clamps look useful. I see the yellow ones are contained in the N gauge Pack of tools. Would they fit inside N gauge coaches. I got some white magnetic clamps from York Models which are fine for larger N gauge buildings but are far too big for use in the coaches. MikeO
  11. Thanks jhb that is a good tip about the match sticks. I find that straightening the corners and making it all square can be fiddly. they should help and also make a better fit for the roof. MikeO
  12. The models look very impressive. 3D printing has a lot of advantages but for me the big draw back would be the initial drawings whether in CAD or Sketchup. MikeO
  13. An interesting construction method. I suspect it requires a lot of careful drawing and cutting. It might useful to apply strengtheners to your existing coach body at each end and/or along both sides or at specific intervals. I use mounting board but a couple of pieces of 200gsm card laminated together and then glued to the ends and aside would also help. If using thinner card more pieces would be needed. Even if you do not keep this coach body you will get good experience. You might have to strengthen the roof also usually a second piece about 1mm smaller all round is sufficient. MikeO
  14. Very good start. Nice clean and neat lines. is this the shell or have you added the skin? I found that using a piece of round dowel rod or round knife handle helps in curving the roof if it is made from card. Takes awhile though to get a good profile. MikeO
  15. NIRCLASS80 Thanks I missed that post. I just got the flyer yesterday should have checked. MikeO
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